And, among many others, I do. Solving the problem of an obviously misconfigured firearm by purchasing another is one way to do it, so at this point it may be a bit late for me to share a (fairly commonly known) "secret": 10-13oz buffer, tungsten insert to the bolt, Wolff extra power buffer spring and buffing the chamber lightly with a rotary steel brush = 122-123dB carbine with Magtech 146gr factory subsonics and Vaime, BR Reflex, AseUtra, Brügger & Thomet or any other quality suppressor of at least ~220-250cc internal volume.
Shooting one full auto is an amusing experience. It sounds like a very quiet single cylinder motorcycle idling, combined with a hissing flight noise of bullets.
On a more general note, caliber in itself and the action type make little to no difference. V0 bullet velocity is the key, along with making sure that pressure curve is steep enough to keep gas pressure low enough at the muzzle. If, for any reason, the breech starts to open before barrel pressure has dropped to a virtually inaudible level, there's a problem that has to be corrected. Way too many people just enthusiastically buy a can, screw it onto something and are sorely disappointed, just like most manufacturers pay no attention to configuring their guns for suppression. It would be a very small difference in manufacturing costs, but it's always a matter of price point unless there's an incentive like being able to use the hype in marketing "designed for suppressors" guns. In any case there's nothing to it; anyone with basic skills with handtools can easily do at home. Providing that they can be bothered, of course.
