7.62x25mm loading database

[jacUSMC]

I am wanting to start loading 7.62x25mm for my cz52. I have read a lot of useful info so far, but I am looking to see if I can get a grouping of experienced advice all on one thread and take notes before I start buying components and hardware.
bullet info: fmj's, casting lead, factory lead, using .32 or .308 pistol, etc.
brass: reloading factory ammo, new brass, making brass, etc
powders: target loading and "defensive" or hunting loads, this would tie into bullet types.
dies: any extra issue with a bottle neck, or THIS particular round, should I get anything extra for finishing sizing, read some on that.
any other useful info would be appreciated.

 

[Carl N. Brown]

I have found some lots of foreign military surplus 7.62x25 brass to have larger than spec rim diameter. (I use a priming tool that has a shell holder correct for 9mm, 7.62 Tok, 7.63 Mauser, and .32 revolver.) Commercial 7.62x25 brass from ammo by S&B and Prvi Partisan have been consistently uniform and standard rim diameter. S&B primer pockets tend to be tight fit with small pistol primer.

Trimming cases might be a good idea, especially if you mix 7.62 Tokarev and 7.63 Mauser brass. A minor note is that while they appear to be identical, 7.63 Mauser tend to be slightly longer than 7.62x25 cases. The overall length of casings in 7.63 Mauser run .98 to .99 in. or 24.9 to 25.15 mm and in 7.62 Tokarev run .958 to .98 in. or 24.3 to 25 mm. Mauser cartridges tend to have slightly longer necks and may need trimming (although recent commercial 7.63 Mauser ammo appears to be loaded in standard 7.62x25 cases.) According to Starline Brass, it would only be a problem if a 7.62 load was in a maximum length Mauser untrimmed case fired in a minimum dimension 7.62x25 chamber.

 

[Twmaster]

I just started loading 7.62x25. thus far I have had -great- success with Sierra .308 85 grain round nose FMJ, 5 grains of Red-Dot in Prvi, S&B and my .223 conversion cases.

I've heard a lot of folks complain about S&B brass being tight. I also load 9MM Luger and have not had any issues with S&B brass in either 9 or 7.62 Tok.

I'm saving up to buy a bunch of Berry's 110 grain .308 bullets. I'd be interested in seeing load data for that round using powder like Unique or Red-Dot.

Lee has load data for various bullets loaded with various powders from Accurate.

Hornady also has .308 86 grain FMJ and .309 XTP 90 grain hollow points.

If somebody wants to round up load and other data I could host it on my web server.

 

[Twmaster]

I should also add, there is a good bit of information in this forum for loading this cartridge.

 

[jacUSMC]

I should also add, there is a good bit of information in this forum for loading this cartridge.

I have seen a smattering of info here and there, I figured I could get some folks to chime in and get most of the info in a single thread. thanks of the input so far.

 

[jacUSMC]

so I from what I have found, I need the standard 3 die set plus a decaper without the pin for a final "resize", due to the fact that apparently the bullets swell the casings so they do not easily fit the chamber.
I also found a fellow on another post of mine showed some nice pics of JSP with a perfect mushroom shape expansion. this may be the answer to the "right bullet" for defense, since the JSP needs velocity to expand properly, and apparently JHP do not hold up well in this caliber.
my lee data book shows only accurate 5, 7, and 9 in powder, anyone used anything else, although I like accurate just fine. just curious.

 

[dogrunner]

I've played with the caliber for some years now....all with my near mint CZ52.

Far as commercial brass goes I've used a mix of Starline....purchased from Graf's, and once fired S&B........all work well and present no problem relative to resizing or preparation.

BUllets have consisted of Hornady's 90 gr HP XTP..........utterly devastating on small game! Usual loads for just plinking are w/ Lee's 100 gr mould and cast from straight wheelweights. All cast bullets are sized .308 and lubed with Javelina brand alox.

Powders have run the usual gamet of appropriate types for this caliber range ie: BE/Unique etc. but I settled on Blue dot as being the most accurate. It seems I get best accuracy around 7 to 8 grains of the stuff. Shoots cleaner than Unique and bulks up in the case better than BE if that makes any real diff to you.

Dies......nothing expensive, just a standard set of Lee's........hey, it was all of a 100 buck gun to begin with. Still, that gun in that caliber will smoke a steel plate at a hundred yards all day long, and that's hard to beat for the price!

 

[Hondo 60]

I've used Prvi Partizan brass (headstamped PPU or nny)
There doesn't seem to be much difference between the two.

I've also made some using .223 brass.
Be aware the .223 brass is narrower than 7.62x25 brass.
So it bulges some when fired.

Lee's 2nd edition of "Modern Reloading" has loading data for this cartridge.
In using his data, I've loaded with Accurate #5 powder.

Accuracy sucks, but I don't know if it's the gun, the powder, the bullet or combination.
(of course it's not me)
Even factory ammo pales in the accuracy dept.

For bullets, I've been using Berry's plated rifle .308" 110 gr bullets.


The one issue that stands out though is that the neck is too thick for my Zastava M57's chamber.
Rather than a crimp die, in the 4th hole I've put a 2nd resizing die w/o the decapping pin.
That's helped a bunch, but it's still isn't perfect.
I still get 5 or 6 per box of 50 that don't want to fully seat.
So if anyone has any other ideas on this, I'd LOVE to hear them.

 

[zxcvbob]

I've also made some using .223 brass.
Be aware the .223 brass is narrower than 7.62x25 brass.
So it bulges some when fired.

Do you have to ream the necks, or just trim, size, then trim again? I've been saving my 7.62x25 brass, intending to convert the primer pockets from berdan to boxer, but making brass out of .223 might be easier. (and I don't care if it bulges, as long as I can still get the bullets reasonably concentric)

 

[Hondo 60]

I cut them to 1.1" with a jig saw.
then run them thru a sizing die.
Trim to correct length
Chamfer & reload.

 

[Twmaster]

The military brass needs to have the inside of the neck reamed.

I can see a difference between the commercial stuff and the military stuff after it's been cut to length and put through the sizing die. It seems to be a difference of about 15 thousandths of an inch.

I found a guy on YouTube showing how he cuts down .223 cases and he drills out the inside of the neck with a letter M drill bit. IIRC M = .296"