About to start my FIRST ever reloading effort, have a few questions

[FlaBoy]

Hey guys!

As title suggests, in the next day or 2 I'm gonna start my first batch of reloads. I finally got my equipment set up in the shop and can't wait to try it. I'm using a Lee Classic Turret press (as a single stage, auto-index rod removed) with Pro Auto Disk powder measure and Safety Prime system. Have a set of lee deluxe pistol dies in my chosen caliber (.40 S&W), 4-piece carbide set. My components are CCI small pistol primers, tumbled-clean once-fired brass (variety of manufactures), Win 231 powder, and generic 165 gr flat-nose (RNFP?) copper-plated bullets I got from the gun show. I had asked for 180 gr. boolits, but didn't notice till i got outside the bag was labelled 165 gr. (I checked both weight and diameter, so I'm not worried about a mix-up).

I have a few (ok a LOT of) questions before I get started. Figured better to ask a dumb question for clarification or to double check than to make a mistake. So here goes:

1 - The only load data in my Modern Reloading manual (ca 2011)is for a "165 Grain Jacketed Bullet". There is no heading in .40 for "165 Grain Plated Bullet" as I have seen for some other calibers. Can I use the data under "Jacketed Bullet" when reloading with a same weight copper 'plated' bullet?

2 - the load i reference in question #1 lists (for w231) a "Starting Grains" of 4.8 and a "Never Exceed" of 5.3 grains. I assume I should start at 4.8 grains (or as close as my auto-disk will allow) for my first few batches, and only work up higher loads until I feel comfortable with the process (and even then only do it gradually in steps up to the "never exceed" value. Just wanna double-check my plan.

I will be using my turret press as a single stage (do each step to a batch of cases before moving on to next station). My understanding is the process will go basically like this:

A) Deprime/resize
B) Re-prime
C) Expand and Charge with powder
D) Seat Bullet
E) Crimp

My questions are about this are:

3 - Which die should be over the ram when i re-prime? My understanding is the priming is done on the down-stroke as the ram reaches the bottom of its throw. This suggests that the die that happens to be over the ram at that time is not significant. Please correct me if I am wrong.

4 - How do I initially set-up my primer arm? I assume there is an adjustment to control primer-seating depth. Is there an initial set-up process for this part (equivalent to the "screw die in until it touches ram then back 1/2 turn" type instructions for initial setup on dies). Or is it just try it, check depth, and adjust as needed to get correct primer depth? My concern is if it came outta the box adjusted to set the primer way to deep, and accidentally detonates a primer.

5 - With straight-sided pistol cases, do i need to worry about re-sizing (checking for case length)? I understand once I've reloaded them several times this may be an issue, but all this brass is once-fired.

6 - Since I have carbide dies, i do not need to worry about lubricating the cases prior to resizing/expanding correct?

7 - My die set came with a "Factory Crimp" die, but the instructions indicate you can crimp using the bullet-seating die also. What is the difference between a crimp from the bullet seating die and one from the "factory crimp" die? Is it one-or-the-other or can (should) you use both crimps? Is crimping even necessary for pistol rounds (I remember reading somewhere that it is not)

Sorry for swamping you guys with questions, but there are all these little tiny details I wasn't quite sure of, and the various manuals and such I've read don’t give clear-cut unequivocal answers. And since I'm gonna be making ammunition, I want to be COMPLETELY clear about what I'm doing. Thanks for the help guys!! Wish me luck!

 

[Josh45]

1. Yes. You can. Just start at the starting charge and work your way up slowly.

2.Yes. That is how you want to go about it. Always start low and work your way up. Also, That is the correct steps in reloading.

3. That would be the resizing/depriming die. Once you deprime, On the downstroke, You should be able to reprime the case. It does matter that you do this step BEFORE you start charging the case unless you want spilled powder!

4. It is kind of hard to detonate a primer, Especially CCI as they are some of the hardest to set off. Also, I am not 100% on which one your talking about but I do know that you want the primer set a little bit below flush when you set it into the case.

5.No not really, I don't know anyone who has trimmed pistol cases. You can do it if you want to as you will get consistent OAL on each case but most of us even here do not do that. This is more important for rifle cases then pistol. Load em and shoot em as others would say.

6. No, You do not need to lube any cases. You can if you want to, It wont hurt anything.

7. The bullet seating die is also a crimping die and it is one or the other. I would not use both crimping dies. You can use either one you want. If you use the FCD, Then just set the third die to seat bullet and the FCD to crimp.

Also, It is kind of important to use a crimp die. Why? So you can remove the belling that the expander die had done. Also would help in feeding issues should you come across any. You have what is know as a "Taper Crimp Die"

Revolver rounds have what is known as a "Roll Crimp Die" and should be used each time otherwise, Bullets can and will walk out under recoil

And good on you for asking these questions. It never hurts to make sure you know what you are doing exactly right so you don't have snags very other time.

Oh and welcome to THR!

 

[blarby]

2 - the load i reference in question #1 lists (for w231) a "Starting Grains" of 4.8 and a "Never Exceed" of 5.3 grains. I assume I should start at 4.8 grains (or as close as my auto-disk will allow) for my first few batches, and only work up higher loads until I feel comfortable with the process (and even then only do it gradually in steps up to the "never exceed" value. Just wanna double-check my plan.

FWIW, you are starting out in a cartridge/powder combo that isn't very forgiving of error...and does not leave a very large margin for it either.

Just something to consider as you proceed.

I would double and triple check your powder charges as you move along very carefully especially when calibrating your autodisc.

 

[RustyFN]

1: Yes you can use jacketed data for plated bullets. Use the starting charge and work it up to around the middle. Keep them under 1,200 fps.

2: Yes.

3: I would prime on the down stroke after sizing.

4: The primer arm is not adjustable. It just requires a firm push to seat the primer. Don't be afraid to give the handle a firm push, you won't set off a primer.

5: Don't worry about it. Just load, shoot and reload. You won't need to trim pistol brass.

6: No you won't need case lube.

7: You only need enough crimp to get rid of the flair the the powder/expander die put in. You can do it with the seater die or FCD but not both. If you use the FCD and feel it post sizing a lot of rounds then check your die set up again. It shouldn't post size very many if everything is set up right.

Congrats the classic turret is a great press.

 

[weeniewawa]

most manufacturers recommend using cast lead data for plated bullets

you have carbide dies so no lubing YAY

only load a few and go to a range and test them for accuracy and function, it sucks to be off a little and then have to pull a bunch of them.

and always ask lots of questions as it is better to not know than to not ask and have problems

have fun

 

[dsb1829]

For 40 and 10mm I recommend gutting the fcd and running your brass through it as step #1. I use a bulge buster kit. This will remove any bulging near the base of the ctg. 40 is high pressure and a lot of autoloaders have loose chambers. Combine those and the brass gets a bit bulged.

 

[FlaBoy]

Thanks for all the help guys. There one respondent said to use lead bullet tables for copper plated bullets, but my manual shows no 165 lead bullet loads, only 170 gr, and even then with different powders. So I plan to stick to my copper jacketed table. Make sense? Seems safe?

 

[Josh45]

Well, Berrys plated bullets says to use low end to mid jacketed data for their plated bullets.

Rainer bullets say to use cast lead date for theirs. Which one do you have? As long as you start low and work your way up in your guns until you see obvious signs that you need to back down, I think you would be O.K

 

[RustyFN]

I have shot thousands of Berry's and Rainier plated bullets. All were shot with jacketed data no problems.