What can be done to improve a revolver's accuracy?
I shot my (new to me) S&W1917 the other day and was quite impressed with the 6-shot groups I was able to generate. My loads were Wally World Value-pack 230gr .45ACP. I have never, I mean NEVER shot so well with another revolver offhand. My S&W686 has never done so well for me with factory fodder or reloads. (My 686 has had a trigger job and a few thousand rounds through it. No mechanical problems or hunks taken out of the bbl crown.)
So, there I am in the gunshop, discussing this phenomenon, when the gunshop employee says, "If you let our gusmith work on your 686, he can improve its accuracy a whole lot."
I have read about 'smiths accurizing 1911s & various autos & I think I understand that: reducing tolerances, especially in the bbl bushing and slide-to-frame fit, etc. I am not so sure what can be done to a revolver, with its six chambers and rotating cylander. Whatever it is, I bet it is a more expensive proposition than a similar accurizing of a 1911.
I would further suppose that a lot of the "accurizing" has to take place when the revolver is first produced.
Any thoughts by those more familiar with the 'smithing of revolvers?
I shot my (new to me) S&W1917 the other day and was quite impressed with the 6-shot groups I was able to generate. My loads were Wally World Value-pack 230gr .45ACP. I have never, I mean NEVER shot so well with another revolver offhand. My S&W686 has never done so well for me with factory fodder or reloads. (My 686 has had a trigger job and a few thousand rounds through it. No mechanical problems or hunks taken out of the bbl crown.)
So, there I am in the gunshop, discussing this phenomenon, when the gunshop employee says, "If you let our gusmith work on your 686, he can improve its accuracy a whole lot."
I have read about 'smiths accurizing 1911s & various autos & I think I understand that: reducing tolerances, especially in the bbl bushing and slide-to-frame fit, etc. I am not so sure what can be done to a revolver, with its six chambers and rotating cylander. Whatever it is, I bet it is a more expensive proposition than a similar accurizing of a 1911.
I would further suppose that a lot of the "accurizing" has to take place when the revolver is first produced.
Any thoughts by those more familiar with the 'smithing of revolvers?
