Advice for .40 Glock

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jr_roosa

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I have a friend who wants to start reloading, and I told him he can use my bench all he wants. I've just started myself, and things are going well so far.

The problem is that he has a .40SW Glock with a factory barrel, which the two of us have figured out is a bit touchy when it comes to reloading.

I was wondering about the risks and merits of the following ideas:

1. Get a Bar-Sto barrel for the glock and then reload lead and jacketed bullets as for any other gun.

2. Shoot the factory barrel, but stick to jacketed bullets and light loads.

3. Get a 1911 or a .357 and just start with .45 or .38 until he gets enough experience to make a go at .40SW.

Finances are a little tight, so we're leaning towards 1 or 2. I have dies and components for the older calibers, but not .40, so that takes some of the sting out of 3.

What do you think? Are all of these equally good ideas, or are there serious problems with any of these ideas?

-J.
 
What do you think?

Option 1. Get the aftermarket barrel. Load what you want and stop worrying about it.

Or get an XD. Load what you want and stop worrying about it.
 
Jacketed bullets and normal loads up to the book max, using Alliant Power Pistol and/or IMR HiSkor 800-X.

It took 20% more Power Pistol than the book max load to get the primers to flatten/flow as much as factory ammo (with the same case and primer brands), in my G23. And the 800-X book max only generates like 26,000 PSI, compared to SAAMI's max pressure of 35,000 PSI

Also, there's option 4, have the feed ramp TIG welded. That's what Clark did, then I did, and I think a couple other people have had it done in the meantime. Clark was able to shoot something insane, like a +160% overcharge, without the barrel giving out. Me, I'm perfectly satisfied with my +20% experiment. You keep the polygonal rifling (I happen to like polygonal rifling), and, at least when I had it done, Randy Ketchum charged considerably less for the work than I would have paid for the cheapest aftermarket barrel available. I can PM you his e-mail address (don't know if it's current, though, as this was about 3 years ago) if you're interested.
 
1. OOOOhhhhh!!!!!!! The continuing urban myth of “cant shoot lead in a Glock barrel”. It started early in their history with kabooms in Glocks, because of their unsupported barrels and lack of frequent scrubbing. Glock’s research showed a build up of lead at the point of head-spacing (the front of the chamber where the case is stopped by the chamber) caused the cartridges to be progressively set farther back in the chamber as more rounds were fired, and the design of the older Glocks allowed them to still fire (fire out of battery). The leading of the chamber in combination with the increased pressure of the lead in the barrel causes the case to rupture. I am unaware of this happening in newer Glocks and Glocks with supported chambers.

You can shoot hard cast lead, but you must check the barrel regularly. every 200 rounds minimum, and cleaning when there are signs of leading.

Go to Glock talk
http://glocktalk.com
 
Get a different barrel. A friend of mine with a G23 was getting case bulges even with mild loads using a variety of powders and bullets.

I think he got a Lone Wolf barrel. The bulging did go away with the new barrel.
 
Just shoot Berry or Rainer plated bullets in it.
Ain't all that much difference in price anymore between them & good lead bullets.

As for lead in a .40 Glock, I have been shooting lead in my 23 for about 12 years now.

Shoney hit the nail on the head about older Glocks being able to fire out of battery.
Glock Perfection or not, mine will fire with the slide back about 1/16"+ inch or more.

As long as you use hard cast bullets (I use Linotype) and clean the gun occasionally, there is no problem.

rcmodel
 
Run plated or jacketed bullets through the standard barrel and don't worry.
The cost savings of using lead takes a lot of rounds before buying a new barrel becomes worthwhile.
 
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