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Advice on Build

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Bobson

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Joined
Aug 9, 2011
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4,294
Location
Kendall County, TX
I'm looking at picking up a rifle in the next two months or so, but because of my plans, I need to make sure I don't drop the money on something that isn't going to fit the build. Intentions are to select a rifle that will allow me to hunt (mostly coyotes) with it in the meantime, while I save for the build. I've selected the Savage 11 Trophy Hunter XP in .243 Winchester. I plan to replace the scope with a Leupold VX-2 2-7x, or a VX-3 2.5-8x.

First thing I want to replace is the stock, but I'm not sure with what. Seems like options may be a bit light. A McMillan A5 is at the top of the list, as I don't plan to be packing this thing through the woods all day.

I'd like to replace the barrel with a Bull bbl, but haven't done enough research yet to settle on a brand. From what I've read, the .243 will have about 2-3k rounds of barrel life, depending on the load, so eventually it's gonna need to happen. As long as I can get ~0.75 MOA accuracy from the stock barrel, I won't be replacing it until it's shot out.

What do you guys think? Sound like a decent long-term build plan? I'd be using the rifle as-is, and slowly replacing the parts I mentioned. Anything I ought to reconsider?
 
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Not a bad idea at all, I have done something similar in the past and this is how I would do it if I were to do it over again.

Look for a used Savage with an accustock, I prefer the detachable magazines over a hinged floor plate but thats just me. Those stocks are pretty good for factory and wont leave you lacking as you piece your build together. Get your scope, a good base, and rings. Order a barrel as soon as you can, sometimes the wait can be several months depending on what you want. While you wait for the barrel keep an eye on the forums for the stock you want. Most times you can find what you want used or close enough and it can save you some serious bucks.

Since you plan on replacing the barrel anyways it doesnt matter how many rounds are through the used one. If its a fairly good condition barrel you can resell it for $50 or so and that can help cover the cost of the new barrel.
 
Think the McMillan A5 would be decent? I mean, I know McMillan's reputation, but I've not heard or read any firsthand use of the A5. Like I said, I'll be hunting yotes in the meantime, but the goal with the build is to have a heavier rifle designated for sitting on a bipod, either in the valleys, or at the range.
 
Having been sucked in by low cost optics I suggest you see if you can find one then spend a good 5 minutes staring through it in the store. See how your eye feels at the end of the 5 minutes. If it has any noticeable strain at all or feels a bit off then I'd suggest better glass.

If it has a zoom function and some of your shots will be at longer distances and full zoom then zoom it in and hold it on something in the distance for this test.

Good glass just makes the things look closer with no eye strain. Iffy glass looks OK at first glance but your eyeball will soon start to mutter to you about strain. Hence the 5 minute test. And after a half hour of looking through it for distant 'yotes your eye will be positively screaming at you for relief.

Been 'dere done dat with cheap binoculars used for plane spotting. Good glass can be held to the eye for long periods with no strain. Cheap glass that seems OK at first soon makes itself felt.
 
About 12 years ago when I was an active member on the SniperHide website, Kelly McMillan asked us what we wanted to see in a new tactical rifle stock that he wanted to bring out. Using the input we provided, the result was the McMillan A5 stock. I was one of 12 people selected to test and evaluate a preproduction model of the A5. Here is a review that I wrote about the then new A5 stock: http://www.snipercountry.com/InReviews/McMillan_A-5_Stock.asp.

Don
 
I've never used a stock with an adjustable cheek riser. One quick question about them.

1) Do those adjustment nuts (as on the McMillan A5, pictured below) on the cheek riser ever interfere with cheek weld? Seems like it's possible that they could, but I don't want to make any assumptions either way.

The other stocks I'm strongly considering are the Manners T5A (also pictured below), or T4A. For those who don't know, the only difference between the T5A and T4A is that the T5A is the thumb-hole style grip specifically molded for the right hand, while the T4A has an ambidextrous vertical grip, more like that on the McMillan A5. I'm just not sure which style I prefer. Input welcome.

From what I've gathered by reading so far, nobody ever buys McMillan or Manners and later feels like it was a waste of money. That's pretty powerful testimony, but if anyone else has experience with any of these three particular stocks (McMillan A5, Manners T5A, or T4A), I would appreciate your feedback where applicable.
 

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Regarding Length of Pull

While researching the MCS-T4A, I found that the LOP on the stock (with standard 1" Decel pad) is 13.5", which is standard for rifles in America. Well, that got me thinking... what's my LOP? So I looked it up, and found this information on measuring one's own LOP:

http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f18/how-measure-your-length-pull-5551/
Excerpt from link:
Standing straight up, with your arms hanging at your sides, you need only to bend your arm at the elbow to 90 degrees to the front.

Keeping your wrist straight & in line with your forearm, now make an imaginary pistol style grip with your hand. Curl your finger into a natural trigger position.

Now, using a tape or similar device, measure from the inside of the elbow, just below the bicep, straight down the forearm to the middle of the pad on your trigger finger.

I did this, and saw that my LOP is 16". Yes, sixteen inches. Since the standard is 13.5", I thought, that can't be right. I'm only 5'11.5" tall, and my arms don't hang all the way down to my knees when I'm standing. So I did it again, and tried to be more conservative. 15.5", and that's honestly a stretch. What gives?

Then I dug deeper and found this THR thread on a member's experience with rifle LOP: Link to THR thread. His physical LOP is only 14" - half an inch longer than standard - and he got some great advice on how to adjust his rifle accordingly, which leads me to believe it's a significant-enough deal that it ought to be addressed, even if I'm not educated/experienced enough to take full advantage of a properly-fit rifle right now.

So, should I just expect to address LOP after I get the stock I choose, or am I doing something wrong here?

Edit:

By the way, I live in Arizona, and despite my eagerness to move somewhere colder, it doesn't seem to be working out in regards to the job hunt, so I'm not going anywhere anytime soon. In other words, making up for LOP with thick clothing isn't going to happen.
 
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Do those adjustment nuts (as on the McMillan A5, pictured below) on the cheek riser ever interfere with cheek weld? Seems like it's possible that they could, but I don't want to make any assumptions either way.

The adjustment bolts insert from either side. The picture you showed is obviously set up for a lefty, and set up that way for a right-hand shooter, would definitely hurt.:)

Don
 
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