Just recieved a Walther P1 last week from www.aimsurplus.com, and took it out to the range on friday to shoot. Absolutely loved it, one of the more enjoyable handguns i've ever fired. Used Remington 124gr. FMJ. My question though involves what type of ammunition to use for it. The pistol does not have the "hex pin" reinforcing insert that i've been reading about. Will this affect how long it will last me? I don't mind using lighter loads, like 115 gr. or 124 gr, but my question is even with these loadings, will the frame still crack eventually? I'm just trying to see if these instances were from people using very hot loads that the pistol can't handle, or if there is a genuine design flaw.
ammunition for walther P1
- Thread starter rugbyer81
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I purchase 2 Walther p1's manufactured by Manurhin some 20 years ago when they first started appearing. As such I'm sure they where fired by the officers for qualification and practice. European 9mm is a lot hotter than US commercial. The 9mm I've shot that's been manufactured in Europe generally runs at +P velocities and they don't mark it as anything special. Example would be Fiocchi 9mm 115gr JHP's manufactured in Italy ran 1,288 fps average from my Glock 19.
Both these pistols have been mostly shot with modest power factory loads by Winchester or S&B and a fair amount of hand loads using Remington 115gr JHP's running at 1,220 fps MV. I have shot some of the Egyptian 9mm sub gun ammo and some 9mm Chinese 124gr and both are still in fine condition.
You are being easy on your P1 shooting any US commercial standard velocity ammo. When loading for possible social encounters I'll use Federal Hydrashocks, Remington GS, or Hornady TAP in 124 to 147gr standard pressure.
Here's a pic of a P1 I bought recently that was converted to a "Gestapo" model with the sight relocated to the slide and the barrel shortened. It shoots well and makes the pistol quite compact.
Both these pistols have been mostly shot with modest power factory loads by Winchester or S&B and a fair amount of hand loads using Remington 115gr JHP's running at 1,220 fps MV. I have shot some of the Egyptian 9mm sub gun ammo and some 9mm Chinese 124gr and both are still in fine condition.
You are being easy on your P1 shooting any US commercial standard velocity ammo. When loading for possible social encounters I'll use Federal Hydrashocks, Remington GS, or Hornady TAP in 124 to 147gr standard pressure.
Here's a pic of a P1 I bought recently that was converted to a "Gestapo" model with the sight relocated to the slide and the barrel shortened. It shoots well and makes the pistol quite compact.
bannockburn
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I also have a Manurhin P-1 and have had no problems using 115 gr. or 124 gr. ammo. I try to avoid anything hotter through this gun as it doesn't have the additional frame cross bolt that later models have.
dfariswheel
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The two things to avoid on the aluminum framed P-38/P1 pistols.
1. Hot ammo.
These guns were designed to work with 124 grain STANDARD ammo, and will work with 115 grain.
Hot ammo or heavier bullets will cause frame and slide cracks.
Most will shoot modern defense ammo as long as it's STANDARD loads, and you're willing to experiment to find a brand/type your particular gun shoots well.
The steel pin in the later models was really to provide a "wear seat" for the slide lock.
In heavily used guns the aluminum locking block "ramp" in the frame would wear to the point where the gun would fail to unlock or lock properly.
The steel pin provided a steel surface for the locking block.
So even in these later guns, NO hot ammo.
2. "Extra Power" springs.
Some people figure they can shoot hotter ammo, or "Save" the gun by installing extra power or heavier than standard springs.
This will cause the frame to crack from the slide slamming FORWARD with more force from the heavier springs.
The heavier springs will literally hammer the frame until it cracks through the take-down lever hole.
1. Hot ammo.
These guns were designed to work with 124 grain STANDARD ammo, and will work with 115 grain.
Hot ammo or heavier bullets will cause frame and slide cracks.
Most will shoot modern defense ammo as long as it's STANDARD loads, and you're willing to experiment to find a brand/type your particular gun shoots well.
The steel pin in the later models was really to provide a "wear seat" for the slide lock.
In heavily used guns the aluminum locking block "ramp" in the frame would wear to the point where the gun would fail to unlock or lock properly.
The steel pin provided a steel surface for the locking block.
So even in these later guns, NO hot ammo.
2. "Extra Power" springs.
Some people figure they can shoot hotter ammo, or "Save" the gun by installing extra power or heavier than standard springs.
This will cause the frame to crack from the slide slamming FORWARD with more force from the heavier springs.
The heavier springs will literally hammer the frame until it cracks through the take-down lever hole.
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