Annealing when reforming

[MI2600]

I've gone threw the archives and only got more confused about the "before", "after", and "it doesn't matter" time to anneal. Everyone seems to have their own preference. I didn't see any reference regarding annealing when reforming brass.
I'm currently reforming 270 Win to 6.5X55 for a friend. John Donnelly's latest edition says to anneal before sizing, but I was able to reform without annealing. My thoughts, though maybe misguided, were to anneal after to relieve metal stress after sizing.
I would like some hands-on guidance and/or experience.

 

[Fine Figure of a Man]

I have used (new) 30-06, 25-06 and 270 brass to make cases for my 6.5-06 AI. I always anneal after sizing and fire forming. Right or wrong it has worked for me.

 

[AR-Bossman]

Well here is how I see it.. opinion only. When you anneal a piece of brass the resizing is more accurate and easier to do. It takes almost all springback out the brass.

So...if you are using a bunch of unknown brass and the resizing process is extra hard on the brass, it would seem annealing before the process would make it easier and more accurate. Heck, you could anneal afterwords as well.

 

[LoonWulf]

Another opinion here, most brass i use is annealed at the factory, what i do is if the case is new i anneal after forming. Then i anneal every 3 shot or so after that.

 

[Walkalong]

If you are using new brass it is already annealed.

 

[MI2600]

This is used brass I bought online so I don't know its history. I'm going to have my friend try and chamber the reformed brass. If there's any problem, I'll try annealing before I reform. If that doesn't work, I'll have some 270 for sale!

 

[stringnut]

Not trying to be a smart ass. 6.5 x 55 brass Is readily available , so, why reform from 270? The base is slightly larger on the 6.5 and it would seem that you might get a case bulge just in front of the web which may shorten brass life. I have only formed a couple of different cartridges and that was just for fun rather than necessity. If I had to anneal it seemed to be too much work if cases were available for purchase. Just being curious here and not trying to criticise anyones methods. If you wanted to form cases from raw brass just to prove it could be done I'd say go for it! Lord knows I've done enough stupid stuff just to say I can.

 

[MI2600]

I know what you're saying. Introspectively, I think it's the challenge. A while back, I bought a boatload of .223 to see if I could form .222, .221, .30 Mauser, etc. It worked! So, here I am helping a friend and satisfying my tinkering urge.

 

[stringnut]

I know what you're saying. Introspectively, I think it's the challenge. A while back, I bought a boatload of .223 to see if I could form .222, .221, .30 Mauser, etc. It worked! So, here I am helping a friend and satisfying my tinkering urge.

The urge to tinker can lead one down some strange paths. I have gotten involved in stuff that for less money I could have bought new ! I think that is called a life lesson. Also you can learn a lot from things that don't work out. Sometimessage what you learn is " don't do that" lol.

 

[farmerboy78]

With all the brass I have reformed to this point, I annealed after the reform and fireform. If you begin with very soft brass, it can cause the case to collapse or crush. I find once fired brass to be excellent stiffness for a reform. By the way, I reform norma, lapua, and lc brass

 

[FROGO207]

Yep I anneal after any forming and before loading as well. This has worked best for me so far. When forming I very seldom loose brass by splitting necks or crushing with this method.