Another question about new brass ? ? ? ?

Status
Not open for further replies.
I've got no idea what they are or what they are primed with, unless you are in the wiser, to such.

I'd be inclined to load mild, blast away and then reload with known components.
 
Do you know if they are the correct size to hold the bullet properly and do they fit the chamber of the gun correctly?
You can size them without depriming by raising the decapper/sizer button.
But if you want to take shortcuts, it's your call.

NCsmitty
 
Can you asked the vendor what primers they are? Even if they were able to tell you I would not load over mid range with them at first. I would also stay away from powders like h110/296 those powder we know need magnum primers.

If this were me I would load them up with about 10grains of hs-6 and go have a great time. This is a little above max for 44 special and a little under start for 44mag. This is my favorite plinker load for 44 mag though you talk about sweet. You still know you touched off a 44 mag but your not beating yourself or the gun up just for plinking on the range.
 
1. Do not resize or deprime the brass. Load them as is; at least that's what I would do. I have NEVER, in several decades of reloading, resized or trimmed new brass.

2. The suggestion to load prudent is a good one. I have loaded 44 Magnum cartridges with large pistol magnum primers and with large RIFLE magnum primers over H110/Win. 296. I had to decrease the load about 1.5 grains with the large rifle magnum primers. Therefore, if you keep your loads at least 1.5 grains under the maximum load, you should be OK no matter what they're primed with. That said, they're probably primed with large pistol magnum primers.

3. You do NOT need magnum primers to light H110/Win. 296 in a 44 Rem. Mag.
 
I'm with NCsmitty on this one, too.

My regular practice is to resize new brass. If it is factory new, the brass will be primed with the primers the factory uses in it's ammunition. Winchester brass will have Winchester primers and Remington brass will have Remington primers. Just remove the decapping pin and size as usual, which will make neck tension uniform and straighten out all the dinged necks from being jostled during shipment.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
Ok I checked the brass again. The head stamp has, a star -- star, So I will remove the decap pin and size as usual. Thanks. I sure appreciate ya'lls feedback.
 
It's Starline brass, and I don't know what brand of primer they're using these days. You might ask them.

Since there really aren't any "off brand" primers that I'm aware of, and Starline is a reputable company, you'll be fine with those primers.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
This just verifies my theory that some people believe there is no problem that cannot be solved by a Lee Factory Crimp Die. LOL.
 
For those who don't know, the .44mag FCD has a carbide sizing ring. It will size the finished round. Does the same thing that NCsmitty suggested without the trouble of having to remove a decapping pin. .44mag needs a good crimp with slow powders anyway. Not a universal solution, but it does sound like it would work here. ;)
 
Last edited:
Sport45...I use the Lee FCD on a couple of my reloaded rounds, but not for the resizing ring. If I find that the resizing ring is working my newly loaded round I go looking for a problem. If you are reloading the round properly and your equipment is performing as it should. You shouldn't need the resizing ring in the FCD. Does make a good indicator that something may not be right though...
 
I agree. The resizing ring doesn't seem to touch my loaded cartridges either. Maybe it's a max size while the sizing die is minimum? It should still work for the OP if he backs the crimp off and uses it to size his primed brass.
 
Starline Brass Info from there website.

1.) Does one need to full-length size brass prior to loading?

Generally speaking, Starline cases require no resizing prior to loading. Due to variances in diameter of different bullet types, it is a good practice to size the case only as far down as the bullet seating depth. When full length sizing is required, it will be noted in the box with the brass. The only Starline case that requires full sizing is the 454 Casull.
The website does not list Factory Primed Brass. You could email them [email protected] to see if they added primed brass for sale.
 
So should I deprime or load light?
Many factors come into play. Your choice of powders, bullets. Is your load at maximum. Load light would seen the safe way to go, unless your using WW296 powder. Its really your call.
 
Over the years I've hand loaded many hundreds of rounds of factory primed new pistol brass in various calibers without ever resizing them first. After all they've never been shot. I do lightly chamfer the case mouth inside and out to break the sharp edges and simply expand them to receive the bullet in pistol cases and reload as normal. I've never had a single problem with bullet retension, and the resulting rounds look and shoot like factory new ammo.

In my experience sizing factory new brass is a complete waste of time and just reduces its useful life by one loading.
 
I e-mailed Starline and they said "Starline does not sell any brass that is already primed".

That changes things. Are you sure this is factory new brass that someone has primed? If not, you don't know whether or not it has been sized. Sizing doesn't take long. Pop the decapping rod out of your sizing die and make sure they're right.
 
I did resize them. I am sure they are new, never fired. I think the light load should work. It sure would be nice to know if the primers are standard or magnum.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top