Any kitchen table 1911 smiths in here?

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vtuck2

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Guys,

I recently posted an inquiry about my Israeli 1911 pistol hitting really low. I now wish to expand the conversation to some other 1911 related stuff.

The IAI (Israeli) pistol is commander length. Some years ago, I acquired a Colt Commander Series 80 slide and barrel plus two Colt Series 80 full length slides with barrel. Supposedly the barrels were "matched" whatever that means. Since you will quickly discover it anyway, I freely confess that I am not an expert on 1911 pistols, although I am comfortable with them.

We are a family of tinkerers. My wife, and our younger son (age 20) are certified, practicing locksmiths. Our older son (22), is a chemist.

Our older son, and my wife, will also graduate from machinist school in a couple of months. We now have a lathe and a couple of milling machines, and are ramping up to start a small machine shop. We may or may not open as a business. For now, we're doing it for the love of learning and tinkering.

Now, back to these slides. I've had them for probably close to 10 years. Back when I bought (traded for 'em actually) them, I intended to buy some Caspian frames and try my hand at fitting and assembling a pistol. In furtherance of that goal, on ebay, I bought the Jerry Kuhnhausen book. It just happens that my copy is autographed by him. I think I have volume 2.

More recently, our younger son (the locksmith but not (yet) a machinist) also bought volume 1. He has expressed an interest in becoming a gunsmith.

Among the four of us we have no experience, but I hope y'all will agree, we DO have some "promise". Although our older son will receive a machinist certificate along with his mom, he is now working as a chemist. He has never thought seriously about being a machinist or a gunsmith. I paid his way through the machinist school (a local community college) because I love him, and because he has many of the traits of an inventor. He THINKS about mechanical assemblies and doo-dads. So, my thought was to provide him with the skill set that would enable him to machine his own prototypes.

From their mother, the two boys (now men) inherited a stunning mechanical aptitude. My wife, born poor in Mexico, never had any real opportunities. Early in our marriage I discovered that she is DRIVEN to take stuff apart and fix it. At first, I could barely keep a straight face when she would tear into something. She quickly wiped the smirk off my face however, because with a single exception as I recall, she NEVER failed to get whatever it was, going again. During that one exception that she failed, she was a very very sore loser. She'd have fixed that too but it came down to a broken part that she could not find.

Well, that will soon be history. She has EXCELLED at this course. During the course of study she has outperformed everybody. Her son is runner-up.

Sorry for the bragging. I am so proud of 'em I simply cannot help myself.

Anyway, I haven't yet really and truly STUDIED volume II of the Kuhnhausen book although I have read it. I've always been spatially and graphically challenged. I am a linguist. My world is words on a page. So, the drawings in the Kuhnhausen book more or less caused my eyes to glaze over and drool to start dribbling from my lips.... ;P)

One of the key courses in the machinist course however, was blueprint reading.

So, to the point. Here we are, nearly tooled up, dressed up in our "machinist" suit, with a pillow case full of Colt 1911 slides, a couple of parts kits, the Kuhnhausen book, and an Israeli 1911 that shoots south when I point it north.

With that long-winded preamble, I ask these questions:

a) First of all, is it feasible to tig weld shut the gaping hole in these series 80 slides? No need to give me the liability lecture. I understand it perfectly. But I will never sell these pistols if ever we build 'em;

Two of the slides are some kind of "target master" model. I forget the exact designation but it's printed on the slides. The tops are somewhat flattened for some reason. I don't have those two with me and haven't looked at 'em in several years but all three slides (2 full length "target" slides plus the commander slide, are all "series 80".

So the second question is, assuming we actually buy some frames:

b) Should I just find the series 80 stuff and install it? Or,

c) Close the holes somehow. We have TIG welding capability if that's appropriate.

I haven't talked to the nice Caspian folks in a long time. But the last time I did they claimed that their CAST frames were the best bang for the buck although they did offer forged frames for a lot more money.

d) What would YOU pick? Forged? Cast? And regardless of your answer,

e) Would you pick carbon or stainless steel?

Since Jerry Kuhnhausen WROTE the book for "kitchen table gunsmiths" I ASSUME that my wife and the Tucksters have, if not the skill and experience, at least the FOUNDATION (and machines) to undertake to fit and assemble some pistols from these slides and the appropriate Caspian frames.

Now, back to my problematic israeli pistol. One of y'all mentioned that it might be a fit problem. Assuming this pistol has nothing wrong with the frame, might it be a plan to simply FIT THE COMMANDER SLIDE TO THIS FRAME?

Of course we would only trod that path if we determine there's some unfixable problem with the slide on the gun now.

In summary, what I really want to know is: Has anybody in here (who isn't a professional) been there and done that? I.e. have you successfully fitted a slide to a frame, and assembled a decent pistol?

If (the gun I've got and the guns we build) will shoot a 4" group at 21' that's plenty good enough for my immediate purposes.

I suppose what I'm really trying to ask is: HOW HARD IS IT?

Thanks!

Vernon
 
For the one that shoots low, there's 2 easy options: get an adjustable rear sight, or file down the front sight. Either will bring your groupings back up. How low is it shooting, however? If it's Israeli, it might be sighted to European standards. European pistols tend to have a slightly different sight picture, and will shoot low if you don't compensate by covering the target with the sight more. Once you just get used to looking at it differently, it becomes second nature.
 
There are a couple (or more) really knowlegeable people on this forum. I'm not one of them. :)

However, I happen to own two Colt Commanders. One is a "70" (purists will argue there weren't any Series 70 Commanders, but what is meant is that it doesn't have the firing pin block) and the other is an "80".

AFAIK, you have to have the 80 frame to build up a functioning pistol with a firing pin block. If you already have an 80 frame, you can get parts to fill in the recess in the frame if you decide to skip the firing pin block.

If you get 70 frames, all you have to worry about is not installing the little wasp waist plunger and spring in the slide. If you leave it out (the "gaping hole" you are referring to) I don't believe anything bad will occur. You can use 70 firing pins and just ignore the hole.

I do a little welding where I work, and no matter how good you are, metal can move and not come back when you heat it. IMO, I would not weld the hole just because it is a hole. It is completely hidden and doesn't interfere with the 70 style parts.

I may be missing something here, but I think I'm right on what the hole does normally, and what it does if you leave out the parts.
 
I would not weld the hole either.
Some 1911 slides are differentially hardened behind the breech face, and any welding in that area is not advisable.

So if you don't want to use it, just leave it empty.

If I had a Series 80 slide?
I think you will probably have a difficult time finding after-market frames made for the Colt system, although I have never paid any attention whether you can or can't.

Most frames other then Colt are made without the slot for the Colt linkage, or else made for the frame makers own FP block system I think.

rc
 
I would strongly suggest heading over to the 1911forum where there are some VERY knowledgeable smiths hanging out. Not that there aren't good ones here, but that forum is dedicated to your platform.
 
Well we hardly know nut'ten around here, but if you look up a member/moderator who goes by the user name 1911Tuner you might pick up some clues.... :uhoh:

Anyway to begin. There are some basic differences between Government Model (full size) frames and those made for the shorter Commander. Therefore forget putting a Commander slide on anything but a Commander/Officers Model frame.

I'm with remodel in saying that it's best to avoid doing any welding on the slides. If I were going to do anything like that (which is unlikely) I would use low-temp silver solder and solder the plug in place. But thereafter it's likely that both the firing pin hole and extractor tunnel would have to be reamed.

As for your sight problem. It's hard to advise anyone without knowing exactly what the present sights look like, but as a rule of thumb a higher rear sight will cause the gun to shoot higher, and you should be able to easily mount one in what I presume is the present dovetail.

Anything that Caspian makes is better then good so you can't go wrong. But seek they're advise after you explain exactly what you propose to do.

Now I realize that the above isn't the ultimate answer, but rather then write another book I strongly suggest that you carefully read the manual you have before cutting any metal.

Now if I just knew what I was talking about... Tell ya' what. Go to the forum's search feature (in the green bar at the top of the page / center-right) and search on the key words "1911Tuner," and "Old Fuff" and see what you find. Expect lots and lots of reading... ;)
 
Caspian frames are available cut for the S80 parts if you wish to go that way.

From their website -

Series 80 Cut

Modify receiver to accept series 80 firing pin block and mechanism. (Not Available on Titanium Receivers)

CODE: SER80R $57.07
 
Old Fuff et al

Thank you very much. A guy who calls himself Old Fuff and hangs his hat in Arizona has my respect and full attention from the get-go. I will go forth and start reading.

I thought I would get a chance to drag out the aim north shoot south 1911 today but stuff came up. Among the distractions is we're installing a little machine shop. My dear wifey and our older son are pretty near finished with their course. It's sort of exciting really.
 
Well it's this way...

I know everything there is to know, but Tuner's forgot more then I (and most anyone else) knows... :D

There is a lot more to this then taking a box and dumping the parts inside, shaking it hard, and taking out an assembled pistol. :evil:
 
Hey!
I tried that once, and it came out almost shootable after I put it together on the kitchen table!

Well, at least it didn't shoot 18" low at 7 yards like the OP's gun anyway.

Guess I'll mosy on over to the 1911.org site recommended by tuj and find some of those real 1911 experts to see about that right there!

rc
 
Quote:
"Well, at least it didn't shoot 18" low at 7 yards like the OP's gun anyway."

RC, you really know how to wound a guy... (big grin).

V
 
Regarding what I said about European sighting standards, I've noticed all my ComBloc pistols share that sighting characteristic. It's universal between my Romanian Tokarev, Bulgarian Makarov, Polish P-64, and Hungarian PA-63. You have to cover your target a little more to get the bullets to impact where you want. It will otherwise shoot 2 to 4 inches low, depending on range and how you normally sight. This sight picture is consistent between all these different guns. It very noticeably differs from Western guns. A gun sighted to European standards will thus need to be aimed slightly differently.
 
A Commander slide can be successfully mated to a standard 5-inch frame. It doesn't come without some issues, but it can be done.

Pictured below is my "Black Army" Commander. It's the one on top.

There are a couple differences between the frames that make this mating problematical without machining the frame rails and the slide impact abutment .100 inch further to the rear. It can be done without that...but having it cut makes it a lot easier.

The plunger hole in the Series slide doesn't need to be plugged or welded.

As Kuhnhausen alluded to, successfully assembling a functional rough-and-tumble 1911 pistol isn't that complicated. Building a precisely fitted match-grade pistol is...a little more involved, and probably not a project for a tinkerer. It's been done, but the odds are against it on your first attempt.

No way would I attempt to talk somebody through a complete build on a forum. Too many unknowns to deal with, and I have enough trouble trying to explain various functions and troubleshooting malfunctions without having to fight my way through a half-dozen arguments along the way.

No way/no how. Don't need the drama that's sure to follow and I'm way too busy with the dogs to focus on it enough to do it justice anyway.

Do some research and read. Get the pistol together, and see if it runs. If it does...be happy. If it doesn't...sing out and we'll try to diagnose the bugs and help fix'em.

BlackArmyCommander-1.jpg
 
A very common practice with the M1911A1

It's also possible that he is milking the grip, that is, anticipating recoil and actually causing the muzzle to dip thus the shot goes low.
:uhoh:
 
Quote:

"A Commander slide can be successfully mated to a standard 5-inch frame. It doesn't come without some issues, but it can be done."

1911 tuner. Thank you. I certainly did not expect you to walk us through it. Your answer was exactly what I was looking for. Indeed, our first objective would be "a rough and tumble" gun that fires reliably.

As to your quoted statement above, I never anticipated doing this because I didn't know it COULD be done. We have three slides to play with. Only one is commander length. The other two are full length. We don't have any frames yet however. So, although I'm glad to know it CAN be done I have no plans to go there.

P.S. I was really moved by your dog quote. Made me stop and think about how fleeting life is for both man and dog.

Best,

VT
 
Quote:

"A very common practice with the M1911A1
It's also possible that he is milking the grip, that is, anticipating recoil and actually causing the muzzle to dip thus the shot goes low."

Big G,

In this case I would be happy for the source of the problem to be my worst enemy. But in this case it ain't so.

To get on target I have to create the following sight picture: Front and rear sights aligned side to side (i.e. THERE IS NO WINDAGE PROBLEM). Then I have to tilt the gun up until the bottom of the FRONT sight is higher than the top of the rear sight. The amount of difference depends on the range. The last time my son and I shot it some was at about 25' (estimated). We were not on a range at precisely measured distances - just plinking on our property.

Next time I will get some more precise details.

Thanks to all.

V
 
+1 on shooting waaay low being possibly in the hand of the holder.

Apologies if other shooters also shoot low with this pistol, and if you can shoot it side by side (not dual wielding(!), just going back and forth between two or more 1911s on the same day) with another similar 1911 and the other(s) shoot to PoA.

Try having your buddy slip a functioning dummy into your magazine at a random place in the firing order and see if you flinch when the gun goes "click" without warning.
 
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