AR questions

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kentucky_smith

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Alright, I'm going to build an AR, but I've got some questions.

It's intended purpose is coyotes (quite literally a poodle-shooter) and overall plinking. Gonna replace a .223 Handirifle.

1. Attaching a scope to an A2 style w/carrying handle, is a cheek weld possible? Wouldn't mind a flat top, but love the overall style of the old school A2. This rifle will be scoped with a traditional 4-12AO scope.

Using a Stag Arms stripped reciever, but wondering about what kit company to use? A chromed standard 20" rifle from Model 1 looks good.
 
For myself, scopes on the carry handle are a bit high for good cheekweld. What about a flattop with a removeable carry handle? That way you can have it either way.

Inside 300 yards, I think most any of the kit guns will do, as long as you find ammo they like. I've had very good success with my Model 1 ultralight. They use Shaw barrels.

For ultimate accuracy or longer shooting, stay away from chrome lining and look for a tighter twist (1:7-1:8) so you can shoot heavier bullets (70gr+).
 
It is more of a chinweld than a cheekweld; but you can use a carry handle mounted scope without a cheekpad. You may have issues with the trajectory of flight changing due to the increased height over bore though. You won't get quite the same flat trajectory that makes .223 so handy.
 
okay, gonna get a flat top with target crown. I don't want tactical, only tinker coyote, groundhog gun.

Any other kit places besides model 1 comparable in prices? DPMS and RRA don't have decent websites. j&t is about 30 miles from here, but don't have walk-in sales.

That 6.8 looks awfully tempting.
 
money no object?
talk to mstn. www.mstn.biz
The web site blows, but really, they build unbelivably accurate uppers.
I have a 17" with a Krieger barrel that can put a whole magazine (with only a TA31 ACOG) in a group about 3/4 of an inch at 110 yards.
With me shooting it, probably withs omeone who can really shoot it could do amazing things.
look up the mstn area on ar15.com http://www.ar15.com/forums/forum.html?b=2&f=134
Paul has built 2 rifles for me already and he'll be building more.

Oh yeah, my 17", the whole rifle probably weighs 6lbs.

They can do ANYTHING you want.
 
http://www.del-ton.com/
Click to expand...

just a note based on the phone conversation i had with one of the folks at Del-ton last week, if you want a kit or upper containing a 20" barrel CALL them before you order, and confirm that their stock of 20" tubes has been replenished.

as of last friday they had no 20" barrels in house, and were saying that according to their suppliers it would be about 4-5 weeks before they (del-ton) had any 20" units in hand.


the above is why i now have a "plinker Plus 20" upper on the way from olympic (my lower is built and i'm tired of waiting)
 
so here's a technical question: How much velocity will I lose if I go for a 16" instead of a 20" barrel?
 
Here is a chart:

I do not think you need to worry much about barrel length, but it depends on how far you are willing to take a shot on a varmint.

Match your barrel twist to the ammunition you intend to use.

www.bushmaster.com has a decent selection of 1/9 barrels in various lengths and profiles, from time to time they have 14.5" M4 and 20" A2 profile barrels in stock, but you have to call. www.bravocompanyusa.com and www.adcofirearms.com have 1/7 14.5" and 16" barrels.

There are many manufacturers of heavy match grade barrels with 1/8 twist, usually in 20" length.

Hope this helps.
 

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DPMS and RRA don't have decent websites??!!
I think they are very well laid out though they take a bit to load at dial up speed.
Try Precision Reflex website for another one that is worth the wait to load.
The MIDI tune alone is worth the download time if nothing else catches your fancy.
http://www.pri-mounts.com
I own one and ONLY ONE of the Gas Buster charging handles.
It is a pretty impressive piece but I could have spent the money on another barrel, Geez these things are pricey.
Oh yeah, I also replaced their charger latch with a Badger Ordinance Gen ll Tac Latch.
Made it even more expensive.
It stays on my Match rifle.
 
JT's about 30 miles from me, I'll call them tomorrow.
here's another question:

what kind of scope mount/rings do you need for a flattop? Will weaver work for say, mounting a 3x9x40 Leupold VariX II?
 
You may wanna take a look at scopes from www.dsarms.com. They carry IOR Valdada scopes in a variety of reticle and power options, many with good weaver rings included. I dont own a Valdada scope but I like what I've read on their quality for the price. I shoot my FAL just fine with iron sights, but a DSA mount and valdada scope is on the wishlist.
 
Weaver style rings work, but many use ultra high rings or a riser to get a comfortable cheek weld.
 
Roughly, you will lose about 400 feet per second using a 16" barrel verses a 20" barrel.

I have two 24" barrelled AR and they also actually shoot slower than my 20" barrelled rifle when using an identical load.
It's all in the powder and burn rate.
 
okay, I'm going to get a 20", mostly because the balance is better to me, flat top with detachable carry handle and a 1 piece mount and rings from JT Dist.

I like the idea of the expedition rifle, without an HBAR barrel, for lightweight carry. Any thoughts on that?

Everything else will be A2.
 
Unless you're really crankin roads out in a long session you don't NEED a heavy barrel. My old Colt SP1 has the lightweight 1:12" twist bbl. It's plenty accurate as long as I feed it light bullets for the slow twist. I love the lightweight and balance of the SP1; I'd love to get a 1:9 twist light or medium barrel AR one day.
 
Model 1 has a bad rep, spend a bit more and get alot more quality with J&T or Delton.
 
1. Attaching a scope to an A2 style w/carrying handle, is a cheek weld possible? Wouldn't mind a flat top, but love the overall style of the old school A2. This rifle will be scoped with a traditional 4-12AO scope
Click to expand...

On my first ar a Bushmaster E2s A2 i had a red dot mounted on the carry handle and i really didn't like it. it shot alright but like was said it is hard to get a good cheek stock weld and was like i was having to strain my neck to look through it. I took it off because i can use the front sight post just as fast as the dot while doing CQB drills. now on my newest ar i got a flat top so that way the cheek stock weld won't be a problem and it will be more comfortable to shoot at longer ranges.
 
For a 20" lightweight barrel I like the A2 profile, they are available everywhere, and you can choose 1/7 or 1/9 twist. Both threaded and plain muzzles are available.
 
don't mean to hijack the thread, but I'm looking to get an ACOG, the 4x32 one with the backup irons, for when I go to one of the sandboxs

so my question is if I mount the ACOG on a flat top, would the front sight interefer with the sight picture of the scope? or would I be better of going with a detachable front sight post when I get my own gun.

also whats the best route to go with a gun, 16" barrel, 1/9" twist, bird cage flash suppressor, and detachable/folding irons, if thats the best route. everything else don't matter to me, also has to be legal in NY. thanks
 
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