Beam scales

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When the poise are set to zero, there should be a threaded foot you can adjust to move the scale body so the pointer points to zero.

If both scales are properly set to zero, then one of them is reading .2 gr lower or higher or both could be off ...

Do you have any "known" weight items you can weigh to test the accuracy of each scale?
 
Scales, like presses and reloading, none of this stuff drives me to the curb.

The bail hanger (not the pan) is held together with a screw, inside the two half's is lead shot, I have no problem flattening the lead into something thin to get the reading I want.

Then there is the dangerous part, more information, on the beam there is a slide, on top of the slide is a set screw that is visible from the pan/bucket/bail end, if you want the two scales to agree adjust the set screw in or out on one of them, but! as BDS ask “Do you have any "known" weight items you can weigh to test the accuracy of each scale?”

I am going to assume you are attempting to ZERO the scales or you are having trouble getting the scales to agree when using one weight.

Around here there is no shortage of test weight standards. My test weight, for the most part are brass, meaning I do not have the best, stainless and aluminum are the most expensive, I guess if I keep the lid closed on the weight set I will slow down the weight loss, something like keeping your auto hood closed to prevent the horses from escaping.

F. Guffey
 
Sell one of them!

A man with two watches never knows what time it is.
 
Buy a set of test weights and see which scale is correct. I think every one should have a set so they can verify the scale's accuracy from time to time.
 
Absolutely agree with others. If you are using either of these scales to weigh charges, then they need to be accurate ... especially if you're pushing your loads at the top end. They should have come with a calibration weight. If not, buy one. Until you do that, I would recommend using the one that reads lower, just to be on the safe side.

Been using my Lee beam scale since 1990.
 
As previously stated, make sure both scales are zeroed first. Accurate checkweights are well worth the cost just for the piece of mind alone. It's a one time investment that can be used for any scale you aquire in the future as well.
 
Well, unless you're loading right up to the max., .2 grain won't make any difference. If every load is .2 off, who would know? If every load you throw is 4.8 gr. for your .45 ACP, even if you were trying for 5.0, no problemo, they would be consistant :D. If you're OC like a lot of us here, yep, get some check weights (I looked at the U.S. Mint site and found weights for new coins and used that for checking my scales. As long as the coins aren't worn it's OK).
 
Is it .2 gr. lower all across the board? At 2gr. and at 120 gr? Did you zero it with the leveling screw(s)?
 
Is it .2 gr. lower all across the board? At 2gr. and at 120 gr? Did you zero it with the leveling screw(s)?
Like said right there, did you zero the scale with the level screw?

Question, does the scale read ZERO when the pan is empty and you're not weighing anything? If it does read Zero when empty but is .2gr when weighing something you can not fix that and the scale has to be sent back to Redding.
 
If properly zeroed at "zero" weight, being .2 gr off across the board defies physics.
Turn that threaded post to zero on both when empty, then weigh the same bullet, i'm betting they'll say the same .
I own two, and have owned and used several other Ohaus beam scales, and can't imagine how the two could be that far off.
 
Yes scale is zeroed. And out .2 on 20 grain or 120. I've used this redding for 8 years. Got the 505 this year and compared or else I still would not know its out. Bought rcbs chargemaster last week and its dead on with the 505. Does redding take scales back.
 
I don't know what you mean by "does Redding take scales back?" If you mean repair their product, probably. I would call or email them and explain the problem and see what they tell you to do. Please keep us updated on what they do. Customer service is very important.
 
If your 0.2 grain difference is consistent across the range of charges you use. Cut a 0.2 grain square of duct tape and stick it to bottom of pan. Even if the two other scales match each others measurement it is still no guarantee of accuracy. Get a set of check weights. Not just one. I have seen scales that were perfect at 4.0 grains but half a grain off at 40. Verify correct readings at at least three weights. Near your lowest used, middle range and.highest used weights.
 
Make sure the scales swing free, are not encumbered by any metal that might be attracted by the dampening magnets or stuff like that. Make sure the jewel bearings are clean and not worn and the knife-edges are clean and sharp. Make sure the beam is centered and that the ends of the knife-edges do not touch the ends of the cradles. Make sure the scales are leveled not only end-to-end but side-to-side also.

Here'a a way to test your scales major beam (10s of grains) calibration. Put all three scales (Redding, 505 and the electronic RCBS) on a steady surface and ensure none has any wobble. Then zero all. Then take a weight (coin, bullet, whatever) and weight the same object on each of the scales and it is off?

If you weigh a 1.0 grain object on all three scales, how far is it off? (note: to avoid having the tenths part of the scale be a factor, do what you have to do to make the object weigh ".0" on at least on of the scales.)

Then weigh a 11.0 grain object (approximate, as long as the same object is used) how far off?

Then weigh a 51.0 grain object. How far off?
61 grain, 71 grain, 81 grain. Might as well do 21, 31 and 41, too.

Is the amount by which they are off increasing as the comparison object's weight increases? Steadily or randomly? If you go back to repeat one of the tests, it is still off by the same as it was earlier? The answers will be clues.

I gotta go or I would describe a the way to make and expedient test of the tenths bar, but it is similar, though a little more complicated.

Good luck.

Lost Sheep
 
scales

Use nickels they weigh 5 grams= to 77.15 grains. does not matter if new or reasonable age. do 1 nick-then 2nick. then 3 nick and so on.
 
Talked to redding in New York. Says send er back and they will check er out. Free of charge all I be out is postage. They make their own scales not ohaus. On 40 grain it out .2 and 80 grain .4. But it's consistent. Unless them rcbs are off.
 
leeggen said:
Use nickels they weigh 5 grams= to 77.15 grains. does not matter if new or reasonable age.
Well, I just weighed 10 nickels on my Ohaus 10-10 and older ones weighed 76-77 grains and newer ones weighed 77-78 grains.

So if you are OK with variance of 1.0 gr ...
 
Well, in my years of playing with beam scales I ain't encountered this; zeroed scale, then .2 gr. low at 20 gr. (19.8 actually) and at 120 gr. still .2 gr low (119.8). It would seem that the error would be exponential, .2 then .4 then .6 as weights increase...:confused:
 
Talked to redding in New York. Says send er back and they will check er out. Free of charge all I be out is postage. They make their own scales not ohaus. On 40 grain it out .2 and 80 grain .4. But it's consistent. Unless them rcbs are off.
Clue: The error is proportional to the weight being measured.

Jumping to a conclusion, it sounds like the sliding weight may be not the right weight any more (oxidation, wear, skin oils?). Redding will check it and fix/replace as necessary.

Unless it is the other scale that is off. In which case, RCBS will send you an RMA (return material authorization) and THEY will fix it.

Lost Sheep
 
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