Best easy/cheap DYI firearms finish??? OR better oil?

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RAINS

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I've got a couple mossburg 12g's and a couple ak's that I like to tote around and keep in my car. Problem is I live in Oregon. So unless I keep them slathered in oil the finish tends to rust. Is there a better way to skin a cat here?
Is there some kind of special oil I can use that lasts longer?

Or do I need to buck up and refinish them? Don't care how the finish looks just so it's black and dose not rust. Want to do it myself and not break the bank as we are talking about 4 big guns. It would be like a grand to cerakote them!



R
 
breakfree CLP is fantastic at preventing rust.....

also you can try waxing them.....
 
Would the KG Guncote finish be a good solution to a Remington mod 870 Express finish that has several scratches ( visualize claw marks ) on one side of the receiver ? With the metal parts being that kind of matt black finish, I can't figure out what the solution is for covering them up.
 
Jspy said:
Would the KG Guncote finish be a good solution to a Remington mod 870 Express finish that has several scratches ( visualize claw marks ) on one side of the receiver ? With the metal parts being that kind of matt black finish, I can't figure out what the solution is for covering them up.
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I assume you are thinking about using KG as a touch-up. KG is really thin, so it will not disguise surface imperfections. It would work but you would see the scratches under the finish. Also I would think it would be about impossible to color match.

What I would do is sandblast and KG the entire gun's metal. The finish that Remington put on these is a disappointment, in my experience. KG does have a gun metal color, but I have never used it. I would probably use a flat dark earth or flat black.
 
Formby's Furniture Refinisher.....

Kind of 'melts' the existing finish, allowing you to rub a lot of it off, if it is real thick, i.e., like a paint-stain, and then allows all the wood grain to show through, which is typically NOT the case with almost all inexpensive gun finishes.

After the Formby's has dried and you are satisfied with the color which, incidentally, will typically darken a bit in time, you can then put on several coats of your favorite clear finish for protection. I have found Spar Varnish works well as does both gloss and semi-gloss Polyurethane finishes.

I have found that the faster-drying finishes typically come out better, when laid on kind of heavy to prevent drying before you are completed the coating process.

The faster-drying, I find, eliminates any dust particles or anything else that may get into a slow-drying finish.

If you have an imperfection, use extremely fine sandpaper for WOOD, not emery paper! I think 320 grit and 400 grit or higher will let you sand the blemishes without digging in too deeply.

Allow plenty of time between finishes, especially after using the Formby's refinisher and plenty of time before sanding any blems.
 
armarsh said:
Ezzox - if you just want to use a gun oil. http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html It can be a little hard to find, but nothing beats it. Some other oils do come close.

A very good quality finish that is within the hobbyist's grasp is KG Gunkote. http://www.kgcoatings.com/protective-coatings/2400-series-gun-kote/ This is a spray-on finish that must be baked at 325 for one hour. In general, baked on finishes are more durable than non-bake.
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+2 on Ezeox. Midway used to sell it but no longer. Best rust prevention and dry lube out there. Warren Custom Outdoor Products is a distributor. The test provided is for real. I have done a similar test here in Fl with salt water exposure and high humidity. It flat out works!
 
K1500 said:
Use this and you should have no worries for nearly 2 years. At Walmart for about ten bucks.

http://www.wd40specialist.com/products/corrosion-inhibitor/
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I will have to try and test that! ( I have a garage full of every know toxic substance known to man;))

WD40 was originally designed to prevent rust on our ICBM nukes in their silos. It does work well as a rust preventor not so good as a lube.

Used to use a similar product from CRC on my outboards, it coated with a waxy like substance and would not come off without a solvent. Good stuff in salt water!
 
CLP works well . . . I've also been using a product called "Corrosion-X" on my mini-lathe out in an unheated garage, and not a speck of rust so far.
 
Ok will try some of those new rust preventive oils. Hopefully save having to refinish them.
 
rcmodel said:
This is as good as it gets for rust protection.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=31842/Product/RIG-reg-UNIVERSAL-GUN-GREASE

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=31843/Product/RIG-RAG-UNIVERSAL-GREASE-APPLICATOR

rc
Click to expand...
Why not just run down to the local auto parts store and pick up the economy size container? Functionally I can't tell any difference between them.

MD_L666.jpg

I can tell you from firsthand experience that this stuff makes really stinky bullet lube when mixed with beeswax.
 
Ive found paint works the best, and it doenst have to be anything special.

Ive stripped paint that was on a hunting shotgun for 25 years, and finish underneath was as good as the day it was painted. No rust at all anywhere the paint was intact, and only minor finish wear where the paint was worn from use and not reapplied.
 
I have used Gun-Kote from Brownells on several guns. It's a great product. I just finished an AK with it. RIG is a very good grease and preservative. Keep a rag with RIG worked into it in your car and simply wipe them down once in a while. I keep one in a plastic bag for my range bag.
 
Things like a real working shotty or an AK are perfect candidates for a Krylon job. If(when) it get scuffed up just touch it up with a few blasts from the rattle can. Use your favourite snake oil on the inside.
 
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