Botched pillar bed job

[txdvr]

Recently had a pillar bed job done; the trigger release button started binding and would not deploy thereby releasing the bolt. It's a 700 BDL in case you are wondering. It appears that the rear action screw does not stop at the pillar and causes the bolt release to bind when the screw is completely tightened down. I plan on redoing the pillar bed job myself; does anyone have any advice on removing the existing pillars and acraglass from the wood stock or advice on pillar bedding? Thanks for the help

 

[243winxb]

Glass Bedding

To remove, grinding with a Dremel tool or drilling it out works. Trying to chip it out with a small chisle may crack wood. I know it will crack a plastic forarm tip. http://www.brownells.com/GunTech/Glas-Bedding-A-Remington-700/detail.htm?lid=10515 Or return to the person that bedded it. Let them correct there mistakes.

 

[Sam1911]

Oh, wow.

Removing a bad bedding job, especially with metal pillars embedded, may be more trouble than the stock is worth.

If you have a drill press you could probably set up the stock in a padded vice and drill out the metal pillars. And you can dremel out the acraglass as needed, too.

There are a few things that might soften the epoxy enough to scrape it out with a putty knife. Heat, MEK, maybe methanol? But I'm sure you can investigate the drawbacks to those methods on your own.

 

[Sunray]

"...the trigger release button started binding..." It doing that right from the time it was returned to you?
Return it to the person that bedded it and let them correct theirmistakes is the best option.
I dislike using a Dremel tool for any kind of fine stock work, but a light touch with one of the wee end mills is the thing to use vs grinding.
$129.00 will buy you a nice new stick from Boyd's.

 

[txdvr]

Thanks for the quick advice; unfortunately, the stock is a high grade English walnut that I finished myself, replacing this would be heartbreaking. I may try the dremel, but if all else fails a new stock will be in order. Thanks again.

 

[Sam1911]

Ok, if it is finished, please don't try the chemicals or the heat. That will ruin a lot of hard work.

If the stock is really that valuable to you, you can save it. It will take some care, but getting the pillars out would be the hard part.

 

[jlr1962]

One of my 700's bolts got stuck when I tightened the action screws to the recommended torque after a cleaning where I removed the stock. I had to shorten the rear screw slightly to get the proper torque, and allow the bolt to open. This was with the factory plastic stock. Another 700 of mine with a B&C stock has no problem with the action screw length. I want to skim bed that stock at some point. I hope I don't fubar the stock. I might pay to have it done, if I can find somebody competent to do it that does not want to keep the rifle for months.

 

[jlr1962]

Thanks for the quick advice; unfortunately, the stock is a high grade English walnut that I finished myself, replacing this would be heartbreaking. I may try the dremel, but if all else fails a new stock will be in order. Thanks again.

A Dremel might take a very long time to complete the job as I read it. It sounds like a great reason to get a decent air compressor, and a high quality die grinder. Be sure the die grinder bits are rated above and beyond the RPM of the tool you use. The bits that look like mini grinding wheels are usually rated to about 8000 RPM at most if I remember correctly, if they are rated at all. Most 1/4" die grinders do about 20k to 25k RPM. Wear a face shield.

 

[Lafitte]

Try a cupped washer under the rear stock screw head. If that frees the bolt release you could shorten the screw slightly. (If the screw head fits ok with the waser installed you might just leave it there.)

Lafitte

 

[dubbleA]

Recently had a pillar bed job done; the trigger release button started binding and would not deploy thereby releasing the bolt. It's a 700 BDL in case you are wondering. It appears that the rear action screw does not stop at the pillar and causes the bolt release to bind when the screw is completely tightened down. I plan on redoing the pillar bed job myself; does anyone have any advice on removing the existing pillars and acraglass from the wood stock or advice on pillar bedding? Thanks for the help

I believe there is some confusion going on here. It's the "bolt release" button we're discussing.
The pillar if installed correctly should be flush or slightly proud of the bottom metal inletting. It's job is to provide a solid foundation when torque is applied to the the action screw. It prevents crushing of the stock. If you have binding when the action screws are tightened to the proper torque then the inletting is subject. Some minor relieving of wood is needed in the trigger area.

You did not mention if the trigger is factory or aftermarket. In many cases with aftermarket triggers is that they usually require a little inletting work to prevent binding.

I just installed a Jewell trigger in a M700 yesterday in a Manners T4 and the safety would not work when installed. It needed a tiny bit of stock material removed for the safety to work properly.

 

[e rex]

Now you are scaring me. I have a Swedish carbine with a bedding issue and a Mannlicher stock. I've bedded regular stocks before but thought at my advanced age I'd hire this one done until I priced it. Now it will be my job and I don't want to damage a nice maple stock.
Paranoid Rex

 

[txdvr]

DoubleA,

Took another look last night and discovered a couple of things; too much glass material and slight metal to metal contract with the side of the trigger (Timney-Calvin Elite) and the trigger guard. Used a Dremel to clean up both and it works like a champ now. Bottom line; a messy pillar/glass job was the cause. Thanks everyone for the advice.