Boyds Stock. help!

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kmw1954

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Folks I just picked up a Boyds Spike Camp stock for my Savage Model 10 and I think I have a fitment issue. Until I replaced the original wood stock the gun was shooting sub-MOA even out to 300yds.

Today I took it out for the first time and am completely discouraged. At 200yds it is not shooting any group at all as a matter of notice the groups seemed to be opening up the more I shot it.

When I mounted it I checked and there was contact on the rear tang to one side. So after about 20 rounds I gave up and brought it home. Have it apart right now and I can see a small mark on the tang area, small mark in the area of the bolt release and a dent in the wood around the front action screw.

Now I have seem videos mention Bedding Black for inletting but is there anything else that I can use to substitute from a local store?
 
I have yet to buy an aftermarket stock that did not require stock channel relief, and glass bedding. In fact, factory stocks are not much better in that regard, though my SAKO did well.

Aftermarket stocks are hogged out by angry beavers, who get fired if the stock channel does not fit everyone's action.

This is sort of an object lesson. This rifle was built by Joe in the 1950's. I worked with Joe and he sold me the rifle about 30 years before I seriously targeted the rifle. Joe used a Fajen stock, and he carefully fitted the barrel to the stock channel so you could not slide a dollar bill between the barrel and stock channel. And, I am not sure he did much on the recoil lugs. Joe told me the rifle was more accurate than he was.

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these are groups before I bedded the action and free floated the barrel

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when I bedded it, it started shooting round groups.

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not a tack driver, but now it will hit a pie pan at 300 yards.

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Bedding makes a huge difference in group size and distribution. And that is something you are going to have to do with your new stock.
 
Lots of people use epoxy, arrow glass.

Check to make sure your barrel is free floating, while your at it.

Not asking about bedding. Asking about inletting the action. I know already that the rear tang is making contact and should be free floating on the savage. Also see signs of a dent in the channel just forward of the front screw.
 
Not asking about bedding. Asking about inletting the action. I know already that the rear tang is making contact and should be free floating on the savage. Also see signs of a dent in the channel just forward of the front screw.
.

Lipstick will do what you want. I have used it for years.
 
Not asking about bedding. Asking about inletting the action. I know already that the rear tang is making contact and should be free floating on the savage. Also see signs of a dent in the channel just forward of the front screw.

I think I cast the action pillars first.

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then I opened the barrel channel so when I bedded the action lugs, the barrel was not touching the channel.

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I used the numbers to determine just where the interference between stock and barrel was occurring. I put the action in the stock, slide a piece of paper down the barrel channel until it bound, noted that location, took the action out of the stock, and removed material there. Took a lot of assembly and disassembly, but that's the game.

Once the barrel was totally free floating, I bedded the action, with something like a rubber band around the barrel to center it in the channel. And I checked after the lug bedding cured, to make sure the barrel was not touching anything. And, I added clearance if I felt I needed it.

This is very time consuming, but it really works.

this rifle went from laterally dispersing shots (100 yards)

OmKogre.jpg

to shooting round groups (at 100 yards)

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it really liked this bullet and powder combination

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