breakfree clp or rem oil or hoppes oil

breakfree clp or rem oil or hoppes oil

  • breakfree clp

    Votes: 161 73.5%
  • rem oil

    Votes: 32 14.6%
  • hoppes oil

    Votes: 26 11.9%

  • Total voters
    219
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eezox is pretty good at rust prevention, but it totally sucks at lubrication
 
wd-40 is half the price and the same active ingredient as break free i checked last time i went to wally world i'll check again tonight if i get some groceries
 
For those who may not know:

Here is the MSDS for WD40:

http://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf/msds-wd494716385.pdf

Here is the MSDS for Break Free CLP:

http://www.wfrfire.com/msds/break.htm


The "primary" constituent of WD-40 is "Stoddards Solvent" (composed of aliphatic hydrocarbon compounds like Decane, Nonane, Cyclo-Hexane, Tri-Decane, Tetra-Decane and Dimethyl-Naphthalene to name just a few) whereas the "primary" constituent of Break-Free CLP is a PAO (Poly Alpha Olefin) basestock oil. Two very different compounds with two very different sets of properties.

:)

ETA: Of the three selections available in the poll above, I'd go with the Break-Free CLP simply because it has a good basestock and "preservative" properties. Best of the three, IMO.
 
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I use BreakFree to clean internals, but I don't trust it to lube high stress areas. For that, I have always used and trusted Rem Oil. Never a problem.
 
Is Break-Free CLP safe on all gun finishes? Blued guns? I thought I read somewhere that is it also unsafe on wood. I am wondering how careful I would need to be around the grips on my guns. I was thinking of picking up a bottle because it was also recommended for knives.
 
DS Gun:

Les Baer 45s used to come in a plastic bag drenched in Breakfree CLP. They had checkered wood grips left natural - no lacquer or varnish. No problem.
 
I have a baby eagle that will collect surface rust, I used to coat it in remoil and leave it only to come back a WEEK later and it would have surface rust again... the remoil would be gone... I tryed wd40 same thing... I would over oil it, set it in the safe and a week later... I tryed CLP and you just spray it on, let it soak for a few min, then come back and rub it in to the metal... I can go for months between coats with regular use!!!!

the only downside is they must pressure the can to 200000psi because when you spray it, hope you have it contained well, It will get in your eyes, on the wall, floor, everytime!!! I now try and press the tip only half-way down...
 
CLP and never a hint of rust on anything, both shotguns and handguns. the exception being those guns that need grease.... I have a SA M1a that needs grease in certain places and needs to be dry in others (gas piston). In that case, I use tetra grease and hoppes solvent respectively.
 
You know, I have never been more happy with my CZ pistols and their polycoat. I dont have to worry about what wunderoil works best for giant rust spots.

I use CLP, and I like it. There is probably better out there, but its nice to resupply via walmart. I do NOT like how pressurized the can is, to agree with that other poster.

I dont like the idea of using a motor oil, and the idea that wd-40 and CLP are the same is ... kinda hilarious.
 
Last night, I was at Walmart and put Mobil 1 in the basket. I got to the check out and thought, "What am I doing?"

I'm the SF Bay Area. It's warm and dry here. I could use practically anything that's oily to clean, lubricate and protect. I already have a bunch of different gun oils. I might as well get that CLP though.
 
Mobil1 is great for lube, but worthless for cleaning or protection. I use it on my Glocks because it stays put and doesn't evaporate. But, I use Breakfree CLP to clean them, and to lube and protect my blued guns.
 
I just started trying out FP10 instead of Breakfree CLP on my pistols. So far, so good. It seems to lubricate a bit better plus it smells good and doesn't stain your clothes. I still use Breakfree CLP on other things though. It doesn't do everything great but it works well enough for most uses. I'll keep testing out the FP10 and if it ends up working just as well I will most likely switch over to that entirely.

The problem is the best cleaners aren't lubes, the best corrosion resistance products aren't lubes, and the best lubes don't do anything else besides lubricate. If I only cared about lubrication I would probably be using Mobil 1.
 
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