As you can tell I'm new to this - in fact the reloading equipment will arrive next week. I have a question on the bullet seating depth. The manuals show an OAL for the completed ammo. However the picture might be for a RN bullet with an OAL of 1.550 (.38 special). If I use a FP, that will change the dimension since the flat point doesn't extend out as far as the RN would (I hope I'm explaining this right) so wouldn't the OAL then be shorter? The manual also contains an OAL Min as well. One of the manuals says for a rule of thumb, the seating septh should be one caliber. Is that correct? I would seat it so that .38 is below the end of the case or do I just make sure I'm between the Max and Min and be happy? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks....
Bullet Seating Depth
- Thread starter mugsie
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Seating it one caliber (.38") into the case and starting at the minimum load and working up should be fine. Don't get so lost in the #s that you lose sight of the "forest". It should look right.
The manual will state which bullet type they used to get that oal. You should have more than one manual for cross-reference that will increase your chances of finding an example of exactly what you're loading. Also, additional manuals help solve discrepencies in data. One of my manuals listed .44 magnum max loads that were just a hair over the STARTING load in a different manual. (LEE 1st ed. vs SPEER #13 .44 mag 300gr) I checked a third source that aligned with one of the manuals (didn't help). The truth in my gun was about in the middle of the two based on chronograph data. I solved this discrepancy by starting with a load that was mid-range in one manual, but below starting in the second and worked up slow.
Why didn't I be super safe and use the starting load from the most conservative manual? Well, it was a judgment call, but I had already loaded other bullet weights in the same brand case with the same powder and shot them in the same gun, so I was working with known entities except the new bullet weight. The range from starting in the conservative manual to max in the other was huge. If it was a new gun, different powder, whatever, I would have used the most conservative start point.
Good luck and have fun. Handloading is addictive! I just started to save $$, but I enjoy it as a hobby on it's own.
The manual will state which bullet type they used to get that oal. You should have more than one manual for cross-reference that will increase your chances of finding an example of exactly what you're loading. Also, additional manuals help solve discrepencies in data. One of my manuals listed .44 magnum max loads that were just a hair over the STARTING load in a different manual. (LEE 1st ed. vs SPEER #13 .44 mag 300gr) I checked a third source that aligned with one of the manuals (didn't help). The truth in my gun was about in the middle of the two based on chronograph data. I solved this discrepancy by starting with a load that was mid-range in one manual, but below starting in the second and worked up slow.
Why didn't I be super safe and use the starting load from the most conservative manual? Well, it was a judgment call, but I had already loaded other bullet weights in the same brand case with the same powder and shot them in the same gun, so I was working with known entities except the new bullet weight. The range from starting in the conservative manual to max in the other was huge. If it was a new gun, different powder, whatever, I would have used the most conservative start point.
Good luck and have fun. Handloading is addictive! I just started to save $$, but I enjoy it as a hobby on it's own.
When loading for a revolver the crimp groove is a good place to shoot for when seating the bullet, reguardless of nose geometry.
A revolver doesn`t need a set OAL to feed or headspace (usually) and the crimp groove is where the manufacure of that bullet will seat to when they offer data for their bullet. As long as the bullet isn`t too deep, or so long it isn`t held tight enought in the case or extends out of the cylinder jamming the action the loads are usually OK. Semi-autos need a little more tinkering at times.
Hodgdon offers a annual load "magazine" with all of "their" up to date data and they use different brands and styles of bullets in it. The book is cheap, maybe $7.99 at Gander Mtn or Cabelas. The magazine replaces their manuals and is a good source of data for their products and cross referance for or books data. It is well worth the cost.
http://www.hodgdon.com/Merchant2/me...tore_Code=HP&Product_Code=am&Category_Code=RD
A revolver doesn`t need a set OAL to feed or headspace (usually) and the crimp groove is where the manufacure of that bullet will seat to when they offer data for their bullet. As long as the bullet isn`t too deep, or so long it isn`t held tight enought in the case or extends out of the cylinder jamming the action the loads are usually OK. Semi-autos need a little more tinkering at times.
Hodgdon offers a annual load "magazine" with all of "their" up to date data and they use different brands and styles of bullets in it. The book is cheap, maybe $7.99 at Gander Mtn or Cabelas. The magazine replaces their manuals and is a good source of data for their products and cross referance for or books data. It is well worth the cost.
http://www.hodgdon.com/Merchant2/me...tore_Code=HP&Product_Code=am&Category_Code=RD
Bad Flynch
Member
Remember that all you have to do is to not seat the bullet out so far that it interferes with the rotation of the cylinder. Not only that, but you must not seat the bullet so far into the case that it raises pressures on account of the decreased volume in the case. Most anywhere in between is just fine.
The one-caliber seating depth rule is a good place to start as mentioned already. Using the crimping groove is a splendid idea, too, as that is just what it was designed for. Try not to seat the bullets so that bare lube grooves are exposed, either. A friend of mine seats all of his bullets so that the bullet just barely engages the cylinder throat. He thinks that aligns the bullet for a better start.
This is one of the variables that handloaders have to play with, so be safe and have fun.
The one-caliber seating depth rule is a good place to start as mentioned already. Using the crimping groove is a splendid idea, too, as that is just what it was designed for. Try not to seat the bullets so that bare lube grooves are exposed, either. A friend of mine seats all of his bullets so that the bullet just barely engages the cylinder throat. He thinks that aligns the bullet for a better start.
This is one of the variables that handloaders have to play with, so be safe and have fun.
Jim Watson
Member
Ol Joe is right. Save the tweaking for specialty loading. All I have ever loaded in .38 Special is factory equivalent wadcutters, semiwadcutters, roundnose, and hollowpoint.
If you have a proper revolver bullet it will have a crimp groove if cast, a knurled cannelure if jacketed. Seat the bullet so you crimp in that groove and you will be all right nearly all the time.
If you are using cheapo plated bullets, seat to an OAL close to what the manual shows for a bullet of that weight. And taper crimp very lightly so as not to cut through the cheapo thin plating.
If you have a proper revolver bullet it will have a crimp groove if cast, a knurled cannelure if jacketed. Seat the bullet so you crimp in that groove and you will be all right nearly all the time.
If you are using cheapo plated bullets, seat to an OAL close to what the manual shows for a bullet of that weight. And taper crimp very lightly so as not to cut through the cheapo thin plating.
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