Cant get barrel clean

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788Ham

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I've got a Remington Model #33, .22 cal rifle. I got this from my brother, needed some cleaning when I got it, no big deal, but can't get the barrel cleaned up! I've tried the Hoppes#9, JB bore cleaner, bronze brush, and a whole pkg. of patches!! When cleaning, I've let the Hoppes sit for over an hour, then brush, patches come out looking like I was using Kiwi shoe polish, black as the ace of spades. I've even tried the carb spray down the barrel, to no avail. Any ideas please!!
 
Try it with a nylon brush, the Hoppe's is attacking the bronze brush and that's probably what you're seeing.
 
Hopefully you will not clean the barrel inaccurate. :p

Try letting some penetrating oil soak for a bit. Apply it liberally with the bronze brush, then let it sit 15 minutes or so before you patch it.
 
I can give that a try, I've cleaned numerous firearms with bronze brush and Hoppes, this is the first time this has ever happened. Thanks
 
justgoto,

I tried the soaking with Kano Kroil, soaked brush, didn't come very clean with the first 2 times, so I've got the SOB soaking dwnstrs overnite. Don't know how long it'd been since the bore was cleaned. I've refinished the stock and pulled the bolt apart, cleaned and Milspec'd that...... the barrel is only thing holding this parade up! Will advise later.......Thanks
 
as long as you're using a bronze brush and a coated rod and/or boreguide, you shouldn't have to worry too much about damaging the rifling with "overcleaning". The bronze on the brush is much softer than the metal used in that barrel. However, the braid of metal holding the bristles is usually not... so if it's a rough-looking brush, don't use it.

Have you tried gun scrubber? I think it's Birchwood-Casey. Lots of people like it for breaking up what sounds like carbon/powder residue.
 
Use a good foaming bore cleaner and a proper jag. Repeat a few times with a bore brush passed two or three times in between foam loads. Let the foam sit for 45 mins each time with the muzzle down and use a jag with a tight patch for the first pass through to clear out any remaining foam. Never seen a barrel take more the 4 foam loads to clean to a shine. The stuff works and does the work of several patches and hours of labor. You will see the gunk run out the end of the. Arrel before you e er patch it...
I have had good luck with the foam from gunslick...
 
Mix some Kroil and Hoppes 50/50. Wet the barrel and let it set overnight and see what happens. If there's any copper fouling, it will show on the patch. Works every time.
 
buy a copper chore boy in the supermarket and wrap a small bit around a brush - it cleans lead and just about anything else rapidly
 
Thanks guys for your help! I went dwnstrs this morning, had used Kroil last night. I used the bore brush {brand new when I started} w/Kroil on it about 10 times down the bore, did seem to be improving, clean patch, was not as black. I went to my buddies place, said he had some good stuff we'd try. The stuff he had was in a military green can, was military grade bore cleaner, when shaken it looked like heavy milk. About 5 times on bore brush down the barrel, you could feel the fine grit from the brush between your fingers, series of patches and more "milk" back and forth for a total of 3 scrubbings. Last patch thru the bore came out a very light "gray" color, think we hit pay dirt! The riflings in the barrel are sharp, when pushing the Dewey rod down the barrel, the rod twisted every revolution, so the barrel does seem to be quite good. Now, just need to shoot the dude and see how accurate it is. Thanks guys for your ideas and help, as far as the copper Chore Boy, I'd even had fantasies about using 0000 steel wool on a brush...... no need to now!
 
Yes Col., rimfire .22. We'd even tried Shooters Choice lead solvent, never heard of it until today. That military stuff is what did the trick, course, the 4 hrs of shoulder jamming the bore brush had to have helped too. Thanks Col. Semper Fi
 
JMTCW. Ammonia disolves copper, lead is a different story.

Hoppe's "Semi-Auto solvent " seems to work better for me than the original #9, but over double the cost and harder to find.

It doesn't leave any residue and lubing the bbl after cleaning is advised. I like Mili-Tec for bbls
 
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JohnBT,

You're probably right about that! The bore looked bad when it was brought home, after the aggressive cleaning yesterday, the bore does look quite a bit better today. I am going to get some Shooters Choice Lead Remover, just to keep on hand, this seemed to do alright in breaking the lead down, could feel light, grainy material on the brush after scrubbing the bore. Then the GI stuff really cleaned it, but don't have any idea where to get any of this stuff! Do know they were made in the 30's, possibly just put aside after shooting and never saw a brush or solvent. Thanks
 
1SOW,

You can get the "Semi-Auto" Hoppes from Midway USA, 4 oz. bottle for $ 6.39, plus shipping of course. I'm going to order some tonite, thanks for your suggestion, I truly appreciate this info. You fellas on this forum are alright, thanks for your help!
 
788Ham-

Your story is so typical of many .22 Rimfires out there. They get shot over and over then put back behind the seat of the truck, behind the kitchen door, or over a door in the barn. Some haven't been cleaned since they were taken out of the box.

For some reason, .22 rimfire ammo is among the filthiest used in any firearm. Couple that with lead fouling and you have a real task ahead of you even when cleaning one regularly.

I've found the foam cleaner from Gunslick to be the easiest way to keep a .22 rimfire clean without making it an all day task. I brush first with a silicon bronze brush first to get any loose crud out. Then foam the bore and go watch TV for an hour. A tight fitting patch on a jag pushes most of the loosened junk out and a few more scrubs with brush/patches gives me a nice clean bore. If not a stainless barrel, then some oil on a patch to finish.

The key is to clean regularly, ideally after every time it's shot, rather than every 10 years or so.
 
Mr. 788ham----this is the method i have used for the past 25 years to correct the kind of problem you described in your email to this forum:

1. Install a .22 caliber stainless steel bore brush on the cleaning rod. Smear a dab of flitz or maas metal polish into the bristles.

2. Pass the brush about 6 times through the bore.

3. Replace the brush with a slotted jag tip & thread a .22 caliber patch through the tip & quickly began patching the bore. Continue to use the patches until they start coming out clean.

4. Now here comes the big finish----install a clean patch through the slotted tip. Put a few drops of mothers or meguires liquid clear coat carnuba wax on the patch. Pass the patch through the bore 6 times.

5. Give the wax a few minutes to dry. Use a fresh patch to do a final buff inside the bore.

6. The bore is now clean, dry, & protected.

Use the same procedure for your shotgun, handgun, & blackpowder weapons.
 
Guru,

Thanks for your comeback and method of cleaning. I just looked at the thread on Gunsmithing and Repairs, just having some time this aftn. I had cleaned the bore and oiled, however, I'm going to go get some of the liquid wax tomorrow and give it another go, sure can't HURT ! I have the stock in re-finishing right now, found a guy here on the Forum that has a really neat way to finish the stock. This rifle isn't going to any museum by June, just an older .22 I wanted to finish and keep. Stay tuned, I'll get back to you as soon as I can, cold, blowing snow here has me a little captive right now :cuss: will give this method a go ASAP! Thanks again Guru.
 
You are welcome sir

Thank you for saying "thank you" to me for the advise i submitted to assist you with your problem---your display of common courtesy blew me away !!!! For someone who is 60 years old & has been working on firearms since age 10, i appreciate your gesture.

Remember: Use the liquid carnuba wax as a protectant, after the metal has been cleaned with the flitz or maas polish. Use the polish & wax on the external metal surfaces also for long term protection & to enhance the beauty of the finished metal surfaces.

I have pistols, revolvers, shotguns, & rifles that have all been heavily used in the past 50 years, but they look show-room new because of the extreme care they all have received.
 
Guru,

My manners were "instilled" in me at a young age, being a veteran of the Navy '67-'71 helped keep me current! Worked for a brewery West of Denver for 37 years, working with the public, just a carryover. No matter your age, just the way it is!

I know the feeling about older firearms also. My Pop passed on 3 1/2 years ago, he left me his Sav. .300 '99, and a 99' in .250, both of them have had the treatment I give them. I've also used "Renaissance Wax" on the metal parts to keep them from rusting, really works, might give it a try!
 
My condolences to you

Ham: I fully understand what it means when a father, grandfather, etc. Has passed on & they were a huge positive part of your life. My gf died in 1977---superb wingshot with a scattergun. My dad (ww2 navy vet) in 2002. My heartfelt advise to you is---clean those weapons, shoot the snot out of them, & enjoy for the remainder of your life.

When you are holding, carrying, cleaning, & shooting what those fellows carried, you will have your loved one with you also. I do believe you will find this is true. Yes you may cry at times, but who cares ??? You loved them & they loved you. They in-trusted their valued possessions to you. So use, enjoy, care for, & be blessed.
 
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