Can't use HKS speedloader for 642

[sleepyone]

I have a SW 642 with the standard black hogue grips, and the HKS speedloader for that model will not work due to the grip obstructing the alignment of the loader. It works better on my wife's LCR, but it is not a smooth or fast load by any standard. I don't want to change the grips on either. Are people just using Bianchi speed strips on these models? Is there another round speedloader that will work?

 

[content]

Hello friends and neighbors// I use the Bianchi speed strips and Mosin Nagant stripper clips ,they hold 6 rounds too.

There is a 642/442 club here at THR, if you search within the thread you might find other options.

I have Hogue extended grips on my 442 but they do not really interfere with my 5 round speed loader , the SL is just too bulky.

When I carry a .357, I use an Olympus rectangle shaped camera case. this holds three speed loaders comfortably.

 

[sleepyone]

what about the SafariLand Comp I loader? it looks a little shorter than the HKS.

 

[22-rimfire]

The HKS speed loader is useable, but you have to have the cylinder completed extended away from the frame. It is not a fast reload.

 

[rcmodel]

Use a Dremel tool sander drum and cut a speed-loader clearance groove in the grip.

Happens all the time around here!!

Still, speed-loader clearance is very limited on any J-Frame even without grips, since they quit making the old flat latch model.

rc

 

[sleepyone]

"Use a Dremel tool sander drum and cut a speed-loader clearance groove in the grip."

good idea. or if you don't want to alter your grips, maybe you could bevel the speedloader around the entire perimeter enough to clear the grip.

 

[rcmodel]

Not on a J-Frame speed-loader.

They are already paper-thin at the charge holes to clear.
Beveling would just allow the case rim edges to stick out and snag.

Modding the Hogue rubber grip with a Dremel is the best you can do.

It's not like they are collector grade Walnut grips off a 1935 S&W Registered Magnum or something!

If you mess them up, buy another pair for $18 bucks.

rc

 

[9mmepiphany]

The solution offered by rcmodel would be the way I'd go too.

I hav a set of the old Uncle Mike's Boot Grips (which are rubber copies of the Spegel wood grips) on my 642 and they work with both the HKS or the Safariland Comp-I speedloaders

 

[Steve 48]

I changed to a slim wooden grips instead of dremeling my gun!!

 

[sleepyone]

thanks for the input. i may change grips. dremeling is not my first choice but i won't rule it out either.

 

[rcmodel]

Suggest you take the grips clear off and try the speed-loaders without the grips.

You will find there is still interference with the cylinder latch.

rc

 

[Stainz]

What???

I just tried my box-stock 642-2 and an HKS #36 speedloader loaded with 158gr LHPSWC +P Remingtons. It works fine. Sure, the cylinder must be fully swung out - and - gravity is your fiend, but those 'quirks' seem reasonable. In fact, before releasing the rounds, you can turn the cylinder with speedloader in place, as there is ~3/32" clearance between the HKS body and the cylinder release. It isn't as if on a tractor beam, like moonclipped .45 ACP's in a 625, but they work quite well.

My wife and I have both done the 'load-shoot-unload-reload-shoot' drill at an otherwise unoccupied range at 5 yd to a bg target - with our eyes shut. We watched each other - and didn't cheat. Two or three of the shots would have likely been fatal. We did use milder 125gr JHP 'plinkers'.

What HKS Speedloader were you using?

Stainz

 

[rcmodel]

Plain old HKS #36 speed-loaders in older Model 36 & a Model 49.

Both are very close and drag on the cylinder latch unless you hold your mouth just right and turn them as they go in.

Yes, there is a lot of clearance after the rounds are in the cylinder.
It's getting them there that is the tight spot.

rc

 

[Spartacus451]

I prefer the push style Safariland loaders. I clearance the grips as far as possible whether they need it or not. You can always use more room to maneuver on a j-frame.