care and feeding of the wild wheelbeastie?

Status
Not open for further replies.
E

Erik Jensen

Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2002
Messages
523
Location
Detroit. um... Dogg.
so. last week I got my first revolver, a S&W 642. so far I've only run 100 rounds through it, but I'm diggin' it. I love the option of pocket carry. at the store, they recommended Speer Golddots in the 135gr. +P variety, and from what I've read, that seems like a good choice. I've also picked up some 148gr. wadcutters, but I haven't had a chance to shoot them yet.

my real question, however, is this:

1: what's the best way/product to remove leading? I've never fired cast lead bullets through any of my handguns before, and I'm not sure if CLP will do it adequetely or not. I've got some Hoppe's #9 hanging around, too, if that works.

2: what/how should I lube/grease? I've got some Militec-1 lube and grease, plus Breakfree CLP. reccomendations for a cleaning/lubing regimen would be greatly appreciated.
 
Go to Wal-mart and get a can of Gun Scrubber and some brushes. I shoot lead all the time and have no trouble geting lead out. When you oil you gun just put a lite coat on it. Any more then that you'll just pick up dirt.

-Bill
 
I suggest the Remington R38S12 158gr LHPSWC +P rated .38 Specials, the so-called 'FBI-load'. They were designed many moons ago for snubnosed .38's - and are still proven performers. They aren't cheap ~$17-$21/50 depending on the source. I have shot them in several 637 & 642's - they are a handful with the original grips. Replacing the original boot grip with some slightly longer Hoque's will greatly improve both your accuracy and speed in follow ups. Of course, larger grips have a slight penalty in size and concealment.

If you shoot a lot of 158gr LRN/LSWC loads - or reloads - I still doubt you'll ever lead up a J-frame snubby. The slow lead rounds and short barrels just won't be a problem. Regular cleaning with a .38 chamber-sized bronze brush dipped in Hoppes, allowing time for the solvent to work, should be plenty. A nylon M16-style 'toothbrush' dipped in Hoppes should suffice for the frame innards, using care not to 'scrub' the somewhat troublesome 'finish' on the alloy frame. A spritz of aerosol RemOil or Breakfree/CLP through it's tube and into the cylinder stop, hand, cylinder axle, and trigger openings should suffice for lube. Obviously, shake the unloaded firearm wrapped in a paper towel to rid it of any excess liquid cleaner or lube before returning it to service.

Now, if you have other lead round fed .38's and .357's, consider a Lewis Lead Remover in .38 caliber. I doubt you'll ever need it for your 642... just plink away!

Stainz
 
I like the FBI loads too. Someone was selling them for $8.00 a box at a gun show 2 years ago. I bought all I could afford. I wish I had bought more.


Most of the time a good cleaning will get rid of the lead. If you shoot a lot of lead and get some serious deposits you may want to use a Lewis lead remover. Brownells sells them and they are pretty cheap.

Shooters choice sells lead solvent. I bought some on a whim but really cannot say how good it is (or not) Just haven't used it much.

Ted
 
A Lewis lead remover will get the lead out of your forcing cone and bore.

I always remove the cylinder from a revolver and let it soak at least an hour in a jar of Hoppe's No. 9 to loosen the accumulated crud. I use a bronze-bristled brush on the face of the cylinder with light pressure, then a Nylon-bristled brush to remove the copper deposited by the first brush.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top