ok i use one shot spray....... i put brass in a zip-lock bag and lube it that way........... i dont think the lube really gets the inside of the casing neck............ do i really need to lube the neck case inside ...... i havent had any stuck brass...........thanks
case lubing question
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kingpin008
Member
I'm sure one of the more knowledgeable folks here will come along and correct me if I'm wrong, but it's always been my understanding that lubing cases is done t prevent them from sticking in presses during reloading/resizing. I've never heard of having to lube the inside of the case at all, in fact I could imagine a few situations where it'd definetly NOT be a good thing.
U.S.SFC_RET
Member
You use a different type of lube to lube the inner part of the case when you resize the case. I don't do it, alot of people don't. Alot of people do. Kinda like using a Q-tip and a little dusting powder or whatever. Someone will come along shortly and educate us on the matter.
Grumulkin
Member
First of all, if you've never tried Imperial Sizing Wax, you ought to. It's much less messy than other lubes, works great and a TINY bit goes a long way. Just a little bit on my fingers lubes a fair number of cases (it's not bad for hand condition either).
The only place on the inside of a case that needs to be lubed is the neck of a bottle necked case. I generally put a little Imperial Sizing Wax in the neck of every 3rd to 5th case which is enough. Lack of lube on the inside of the neck probably won't result in a stuck case but it makes case extraction difficult and will deform the case you just resized.
If you're resizing straight walled cases with carbide dies, you shouldn't need to lube at all (this does not apply to the 458 Lott or similar huge cases). If you neck size only with Lee collet dies, you also won't need any lube.
The only place on the inside of a case that needs to be lubed is the neck of a bottle necked case. I generally put a little Imperial Sizing Wax in the neck of every 3rd to 5th case which is enough. Lack of lube on the inside of the neck probably won't result in a stuck case but it makes case extraction difficult and will deform the case you just resized.
If you're resizing straight walled cases with carbide dies, you shouldn't need to lube at all (this does not apply to the 458 Lott or similar huge cases). If you neck size only with Lee collet dies, you also won't need any lube.
NuJudge
Member
The need for lube is more extreme outside
I've stuck cases because of insufficient lube outside the case, but never because of insufficient lube inside the case neck.
Thirty years ago, my Metallurgy professors told me that at a microscopic level, without the lube friction causes enough heat in very small areas that the cases in very small areas form a metallurgical bond with the die. The intermetallic areas are not deep, nor are they large, so they are weak, but without enough lube it may be enough to stick a case.
If you are going to lube inside the neck too, make it a lube you can remove, and prefer something that does not kill primers. I don't bother lubing inside necks anymore. I have used some wax-based, and also mica, applied with a brush or mop. Some commercial manufacturers make an assembly that will hold the brush/mop and lube, one of them being the Forster I have.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=301357&t=11082005
I don't think the mica or wax lubes did much good inside the neck, but some while ago I saw an article on the SurplusRifles board about using electricians wire-pulling lube inside the case neck, and it reducing case elongation after resizing:
http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/homestretch2/index.asp
Normal size dies first make the neck way smaller than necessary, then expand it to the appropriate diameter. I have moved in the direction of using Redding adjustable dies that size the outside of the neck such that the inside of the neck is the appropriate diameter:
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=326633&t=11082005
CDD
I've stuck cases because of insufficient lube outside the case, but never because of insufficient lube inside the case neck.
Thirty years ago, my Metallurgy professors told me that at a microscopic level, without the lube friction causes enough heat in very small areas that the cases in very small areas form a metallurgical bond with the die. The intermetallic areas are not deep, nor are they large, so they are weak, but without enough lube it may be enough to stick a case.
If you are going to lube inside the neck too, make it a lube you can remove, and prefer something that does not kill primers. I don't bother lubing inside necks anymore. I have used some wax-based, and also mica, applied with a brush or mop. Some commercial manufacturers make an assembly that will hold the brush/mop and lube, one of them being the Forster I have.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=301357&t=11082005
I don't think the mica or wax lubes did much good inside the neck, but some while ago I saw an article on the SurplusRifles board about using electricians wire-pulling lube inside the case neck, and it reducing case elongation after resizing:
http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/homestretch2/index.asp
Normal size dies first make the neck way smaller than necessary, then expand it to the appropriate diameter. I have moved in the direction of using Redding adjustable dies that size the outside of the neck such that the inside of the neck is the appropriate diameter:
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=326633&t=11082005
CDD
I brush necks, but don't lube them. Imperial Sizing Die Wax is the best way to go IMHO. Like Grumulkin said, just put a bit on your fingers and rub each case as you are putting in in the press. Works great and is way less messy. 
Necks on bottle neck cases are lubed to prevent the expander ball from dragging and pulling the shoulder back out a touch after sizeing them down. The bushing and collet dies don`t benefit from lubeing mouths as they don`t use a expander, if these are what you are useing. The process isn`t a must but does help keep cases concentric and fight runout.
I too prefere Imperial wax, it`s IMO the best lube on the market. run my lubed fingers (with Imperial) along a proper size nylon bore brush every 5 or so cases and use the brush to lube neck mouths. Don`t use too much lube! A hint of it is all you need, too much can affect the powder. The little I use has yet to cause any trouble with my ammo and that includes ammo that has set for a couple years before use.
I too prefere Imperial wax, it`s IMO the best lube on the market. run my lubed fingers (with Imperial) along a proper size nylon bore brush every 5 or so cases and use the brush to lube neck mouths. Don`t use too much lube! A hint of it is all you need, too much can affect the powder. The little I use has yet to cause any trouble with my ammo and that includes ammo that has set for a couple years before use.
Smokey Joe
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You don't need much!
I like the way that Col. Townsend Whelen put it: "All we want inside the case neck is a suspicion of lube." (Boldface added) Now that's a REALLY small amount!
I like the way that Col. Townsend Whelen put it: "All we want inside the case neck is a suspicion of lube." (Boldface added) Now that's a REALLY small amount!
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USSR
Member
I went with bushing dies and eliminated the expander ball althogether. No expander ball means no lube needed on the inside of the necks. And, since I am using TiN coated bushings, I don't use lube on the outside of the necks either. The only time I use lube (Imperial sizing die) is when I run the brass thru the sizing die.
Don
Don
Sunray
Member
"...really need to lube the neck case inside..." Makes it easier for the expander button to go in. You don't need to lube every case mouth, but it doesn't hurt if you do.
OLD DOMENION
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- 81
Case lube question
IF YOU FEEL YOU NEED TO...
Use the correct size swab or brush and graphite.
Manufacturers make a brush kit that cleans and lubes the inside neck.
IF YOU FEEL YOU NEED TO...
Use the correct size swab or brush and graphite.
Manufacturers make a brush kit that cleans and lubes the inside neck.
snuffy
Member
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=643384&t=11082005
This is one of 3 brushes sold by RCBS to do inside neck lubrication. Here's the whole page where these are located;
http://www.midwayusa.com/ebrowse.exe/browse?TabID=1&Categoryid=19917&categorystring=9315***731***695***8933***
My method of doing that job was to roll the brush on the lube pad I was using to lube the outside of the case. Tiny amounts of the lube gets on the ends of the bristles of the brush. Then the brush is run into the case neck to deposit that "just a suspicion" of lube there. You couldn't even see it, but it made a huge difference in lowering the drag of the expander button.
Now I use RCBS case slick spray lube, for single stage loading, I stand them up in a loading block, spray at an angle. Some spray gets inside the case neck making sizing a breeze. Now for those that say no oil can get inside the case, it'll de-activate the primer/powder, case slick has been tested 6 ways to sunday, it DOES NOT contaminate/deactivate powder or primers.
For progressive loading, I toss them in a plastic bowl, spray them with the case slick, then swish them around for a minute. Then into the case feeder. Mostly this is for .223 bulk loading.
This is one of 3 brushes sold by RCBS to do inside neck lubrication. Here's the whole page where these are located;
http://www.midwayusa.com/ebrowse.exe/browse?TabID=1&Categoryid=19917&categorystring=9315***731***695***8933***
My method of doing that job was to roll the brush on the lube pad I was using to lube the outside of the case. Tiny amounts of the lube gets on the ends of the bristles of the brush. Then the brush is run into the case neck to deposit that "just a suspicion" of lube there. You couldn't even see it, but it made a huge difference in lowering the drag of the expander button.
Now I use RCBS case slick spray lube, for single stage loading, I stand them up in a loading block, spray at an angle. Some spray gets inside the case neck making sizing a breeze. Now for those that say no oil can get inside the case, it'll de-activate the primer/powder, case slick has been tested 6 ways to sunday, it DOES NOT contaminate/deactivate powder or primers.
For progressive loading, I toss them in a plastic bowl, spray them with the case slick, then swish them around for a minute. Then into the case feeder. Mostly this is for .223 bulk loading.
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