Changing springs- SP 101

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788Ham

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I bought an SP 101 about 2 months ago, the hammer spring is plenty stout. I believe the factory spring is #14, I'm wanting to change it to an #10, has anyone done this, and how has it worked in DA? The smith I spoke with said he'd recommend polishing the hammer and some other parts, plus putting in an #9 trigger spring, all Wolff springs. This smith is old Les Baer smith, knows what he's talking about. Just curious if any of you have changed any springs and how this revolver has worked for you. Thanks.
 
Yep go for the Smith's advice, and let him do the polishing.....you won't be sorry! The return springs are hit or miss the lighter you go so test between spring changes. The triggers usually feel as good as any S&W if done properly.
 
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788Ham said:
I bought an SP 101 about 2 months ago, the hammer spring is plenty stout. I believe the factory spring is #14, I'm wanting to change it to an #10, has anyone done this, and how has it worked in DA? The smith I spoke with said he'd recommend polishing the hammer and some other parts, plus putting in an #9 trigger spring, all Wolff springs. This smith is old Les Baer smith, knows what he's talking about. Just curious if any of you have changed any springs and how this revolver has worked for you. Thanks.
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Here is a video on Youtube on the process of stoning/polishing a gp100. Good information if you own a Ruger GP100 or SP101. I did it myself and it was not that bad at all. I just stayed away from any of the sears just in case. Kept the springs though. But it also helped with the false trigger reset.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TuqticFg9q8
 
Thanks vicdotcom for the vid, didn't know all that went into polishing parts, although we didn't see the hammer being polished.

Thanks guys for all of the info, am going to have smithy do the polish job and springs, will let you know as soon as complete. I think smithy will do just the hammer polish/spring change, no trig spring changing.
 
788Ham said:
Thanks vicdotcom for the vid, didn't know all that went into polishing parts, although we didn't see the hammer being polished.

Thanks guys for all of the info, am going to have smithy do the polish job and springs, will let you know as soon as complete. I think smithy will do just the hammer polish/spring change, no trig spring changing.
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The hammer group was polished. It was right after the trigger group. I think 19:50 into the video. You don't have to do the entire hammer, just a few spots on it. But yea, a lot more work goes into a trigger job than most think.
 
The SP 101 is at the smithy as I type this, hopefully before Thanksgiving, it will be back in the stable. Smithy said he had the springs for everything, so its just stoning and polishing the rough casting areas, and then the hammer and a couple of trig areas and he's finished, said the DA should be about 1/2 of what it originally was. Am anxious!
 
I have replaced springs in a SP-101 and a couple of GP-100s as well as various J, K, L, N and X frame Smiths. It is pretty simple. All of them also respond well to simple polishing of mating surfaces. Even .22s, which typically require heavier mainsprings to ensure ignition, can be lightened nicely. Getting a copy of Iowegan’s Book of Knowledge for the Ruger SP-101 would be very useful for someone who wasn't already familiar with the internal workings of the SP-101.
 
JW, nothing was said about shimming, just smoothing out the rough casting areas, stoning and polishing the hammer, trig areas and new spring kit. This smith has worked, as I wrote earlier, for Les Baer for several years, definitely knows his stuff inside of a pistol/revolver.

Clemy, I might get this book for myself, just so I know how the internals work. The smith said he'd probably leave the trig springs alone, would see how the hammer polishing affected the DA, but if trig springs were warranted, wouldn't go real light on them, maybe #1 or #2 lighter is all.

Thanks guys for your comments, advice, am really looking forward to getting smithy's phone call. I've seen/worked the slide/ action on a Colt Commander he'd spiffed up, that slide was like oil on ice, no effort what so ever!
 
After the smoothing, there doesn't need to be much reduction in the spring weights to make a real difference. Some make large reductions in spring weight and no smoothing to attempt to get the same thing. I don't think your smith will have any trouble.

If you want to see how the 101 comes apart and what it looks like internally, Ruger has a parts list brochure and a manual with parts list. Both have exploded views and the manual has an internal view. You can download them from Ruger's site.
 
I believe you can find the exploded diagrams on the Ruger web site, Ruger.com, then look into the appropriate model, hope this helps.

Clemy, I agree with you, on the aspect of the smoothing doing most of the reduction in DA. The hammer spring he said he'd change, about #2, but would then check it to make sure it wasn't too light, want the primers to ignite every time! This will be another CCW piece, don't want any "AW dang's" to occur when needed for that. Thanks again for your input and advice, I'll let ya'll know how things turnout , hopefully this next week.
 
Well guys, here it is the evening before Thanksgiving, and I still ain't heard anything about my SP 101 at the smithy's! I called on Mon, nothing, went up there today at 1300 and the place was locked up, must have taken the week off. Hope they get my Rosco fixed by next week, my hips starting to get out of shape not carrying.

Will keep you apprised!
 
Man alive, is this outfit smoooooth! I just got home from the pistol smithy, had new springs put in it, and had it stoned and smoothed up, its not the same revolver I took up there!! The SA is phenomenal, light and crisp, the DA is the astounding part, so smooth now its scary. I'm really taken aback as to how just a #2 .lb lighter spring on the hammer could make such an improvement. 'Course, the smith told me the casting being filed/stoned, plus the hammer and a couple trigger parts being stoned is what really makes the difference. This is the first revolver I've ever owned, besides my Python, that is this smooth, first I've ever had a smith do this type of work on. Ruger makes a superb firearm, just they can't take the time to make them this smooth. If you're considering having a hammer/trigger job done on an SP 101, its truly worth every penny spent!
 
Glad you like the action job 788Ham, it really smooths them up. I prefer a slicked up Ruger to most any Smith gun I own. The Ruger GP series respond as well to a little stoning and a $10.00 dollar spring set.

If you shot that gun before the work you will really appreciate the difference in just how well it shoots now.
 
Did the smith install shims on the hammer & trigger????

I find to have a consistent trigger ya gotta shim em !

If not there`s a fellow over on Ruger Forum.com that makes em specifically for GP/sp applications .

Also shimming the hammer aleviates the hammer dragging on the frame & helps light strikes(with the litest of hammer springs)
 
GP100, I didn't ask about shimming before the job was done. I can call and ask, but being new, didn't realize maybe this needed doing. As I also stated, smith does know his job, just assumed he'd know if it was needed. Not being smart here, smith had worked at Les Baer for years, I've seen/held pistols he's done previously, superb workmanship and detail. Hammer spring was just dropped #2 lbs., he wouldn't go any lighter.

Triggernosis, With stoning some on the frame, as well as the hammer, trigger stoning, springs and all, was $60.00 OTD. The cast frame had a couple of areas that were pretty rough, where internals rubbed, very, very smooth now.

Remllez, Yes, I did shoot it before the work was done, definitely smoother now. DA is 1/2 what it was previously, might just shoot it DA from now on. Colder weather setting in, might be a week or so before I can get to range and see how it handles, will advise.
 
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Triggernosis,

THAT my man is why I didn't hesitate to have the job done. The owner of the shop belongs to the same gun club I'm trying to get into, possibly this is why, I dunno. When I checked out a Kimber some guy wanted some "specialties" put on, the slide work done was impeccable, like oil on ice! Any troubles with "any" of my firearms, I'll be back!
 
I did shoot it before the work was done, definitely smoother now. DA is 1/2 what it was previously, might just shoot it DA from now on.
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Congrats on your tuned gun. A smooth gun is a pleasure to shoot (and yes, you should definitely be shooting it DA from now on. ;)).

My bet, though, is that a pull gauge would show it's not close to half. A smoothed action can certainly make a trigger pull feel like half, and why "smooth" is more important than "light", and also why a bona fide action job involves more than simply swapping springs. $60 was quite a bargain.
 
Thank you MrBorland, I truly appreciate your comments, I've read many of them on this forum. Yes, smooth was a whole lot more important than light on this action job, in fact I'd mentioned this 3 or 4 times the morning I left the revolver. I was astounded the first time I pulled the hammer back, the first time it was cycled DA, then shooting it today, I again was amazed at its function. Amazing what a stone and a knowledgeable man can accomplish, definitely impressed. Thanks again.
 
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