Chinese Horsebow

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Dec 24, 2002
Messages
9,125
Location
SE PA
Ever since I got back into archery at the end of 2011, one class of bows which has fascinated me has been the Asian composite bow, AKA "horsebow." The first bow I bought upon resuming the hobby was a 40# Magyar-style horsebow made by Istvan Toth in Hungary. I purchased it online from Seven Meadows Archery. The modest draw weight of the Toth bow allowed me to get back into archery and eventually make my way up to heavier bows.

In April I picked up a 50# Samick SLB-II longbow at Lancaster Archery Supply. This has been the bow I've shot the most in the past few months.

Recently, I became intrigued with horsebows made in China and available at low prices on eBay. After hemming and hawing, I decided to give one of these a try. So, I purchased a 50# Chinese-style horsebow from eBayer "handmadebow". It seemed appropriate to buy a Chinese-style bow from a Chinese bowyer.

For what I guess are marketing reasons, the auction was titled as "USA Handmade Flagella MAGYAR Reiterbogen Recurve Horsebow 50 lbs". It's certainly not a Magyar-type bow. It's more of a Manchu, Chinese, or later Mongol style. For example, Magyar bows and early Mongol bows did not employ string bridges like this bow is fitted with. the I clicked the "buy now" button on 8/16/12, it was shipped from Anhui, China the next day, and it arrived today, 8/24/12. The cost was only $109.99, which included shipping.

The bow arrived in good condition. The packaging could have been better, had it been roughly handled the bow might have been damaged. As it was, the bow came packed inside a well made black nylon bow sock, with some newspaper taped around the ends, and inside of a cardboard box.

My initial impressions were favorable, especially given the very low price of the bow. The overall fit and finish is OK but definitely not as nice as my Toth or Samick bows. The pigskin covering seem to be glued on securely, and the twine wraps are neatly executed, with the ends tucked under and doubly secured with glue. The wood has some kind of a varnish or oil finish.

Some specs:

Draw weight: 50# at 28"
Bow length: 148 cm or 58.26"
String length: 142 cm or 55.9"
Construction: Fiberglass, pigskin leather, beech wood, nylon (?) twine wrapping the joints, and a multi-strand nylon string. (The auction listed a "tendon" string which may or may not be a translation error.)

Here are some pictures of the bow. As you can see, the siyahs point almost directly away from the belly when unstrung, and the limbs also arc away. (You can see full-size versions of these pics here.)

chinese_bow_unstrung.jpg


Safely stringing the bow requires either the use of a stringer or an assistant. I don’t have a stringer that will fit this bow, so I had my daughter Amanda help me. While I bent the bow against my knees, she strung and unstrung it for me.


chinese_horsebow_strung.jpg


Here are some closeups of the upper siyah. The first shows how the string bridges hold the string away from the belly of the bow. When shooting, the bridges give the string a little “pop” at the end of the power stroke, improving speed.

upper_siyah.jpg

string_bridge.jpg


Here are the only markings on the bow:

markings.jpg

My initial shooting impressions are also very favorable. The only thing I did before shooting was wax the bowstring. The draw is smooth, and the pull weight feels constant throughout the draw, without feeling like it's stacking at my draw length, about 26" to 27". It feels lighter than my 50# longbow but part of this is due to the presence of the siyahs, which act as levers to give the archer some mechanical advantage. It almost feels like there's a slight letoff when the siyahs reach a certain point in their arc.

As shown in the accompanying pictures, there is no arrow rest so you must shoot off the knuckle. I find doing so without a glove is painful, so I use a leather shooting glove which covers my right thumb and index finger (I shoot left handed). To protect the fingers on my left hand I use a leather shooting glove rather than a tab. Originally, these bows were shot with a thumb release using a horn or metal thumb ring. That is a skill I haven't even begun yet to master, however.

I shot the bow 48 times tonight using the same Port Orford Cedar arrows I shoot in my longbow. They have three 5" helical fletches and are tipped with 125 grain bodkin points. ('Cause you never know when you'll need to take down a marauding armored knight.)

The bow does have some hand shock and vibration but it's really not too bad. It's a bit noisier than the Toth horsebow but that's not unexpected, since it has string bridges. I'm planning to add string silencers which should reduce both the noise and hand shock.

I was impressed with the speed of the bow. Since I don't have a chronograph I can't say just how fast it shoots, but it's much faster than the lighter Toth bow and on par with the Samick. The arrows zip downrange and make a satisfying "thump" on impact. For a good archer this bow should have plenty of power to bring down a whitetail.

I'm going to try to keep records of how many arrows I shoot with this bow and see how it holds up. Initially, the only thing I plan to do is add a nocking point to the string to ensure that I'm nocking arrows consistently. If this bow holds up to use, it’ll be a real bargain.
 
Well written review.

I have never been into bows but at that price I could be convinced to try it and learn.
Thanks it was interesting.
 
Having made and tried a sinew or tendon string I can say that you don't want one. They're heavy, they stretch, and you can't get them wet. They're not correct for that style bow anyway.

That looks like a cool bow.
 
Excellent review. You are making me want one. I too have been interested in the Asian horsebows but have never shot one. That's an awesome bow for the price. What size arrows do you use with it? Did you have to buy arrows specific to the bow or are you just using arrows you already have?

I do shoot an Ipe wood English Longbow which I love and have become rather proficient with over the years. I have arrows with field points, traditional broadheads and also bodkins (I'm with you, never know when you will need some armor piercing capability, lol!).

The next bow I would love to have and purchase though is a traditional Yumi bow. Unfortunately they are next to impossible to find here and the ones from Japan are a bit expensive. Still really want one someday. :)
 
I've really gotten in the Eastern bows lately too (and traditional archery in general). I love these horsebows but yeah they are rather pricy, so this looks like a good "starter" bow. Some day I hope to be shooting from horseback.
 
Thanks guys.

I got to shoot it again today, this time at about 28 yards. It really flings the arrows and seems to shoot pretty flat.

The arrows I am shooting with this bow are 11/32" Port Orford Cedar shafts, 3 5" long left helical feather fletches, a Bohning plastic nock, and 125 grain field points or bodkin points.

In my 40# Magyar style bow, I use 5/16" POC shafts and 100 grain field points.

When shooting traditional bows with no arrow rest, you generally need arrows spined a bit lighter than you would use with a bow that has a center cut riser. E.g., I use arows spined at 35# in the 40# bow. Point weight and arrow length also affect spine.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk.
 
The Great khan seemed to have done quite well with those type bows.
 
That's a good looking bow, archery is only second to pistol shooting to me. My brother gave me a hand made 50# Mongolian recurve for my birthday on year and after I found good arrows for it, it is a blast to shoot. Great review and great looking bow.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top