Colt New Navy lockup

[BigBlue 94]

Picked up a New Navy in 32-20 a while back, knowing the lockup was very weak. But Cabelas had it for cheap and I even got to haggle about 12% off the price. Those unfamiliar, the cylinder rotates CCW, away from the frame, so these were never the most robust pistols. But they were the first DA swing out cylinder.

Ive pulled the side plate to inspect. It needs cleaned, but isnt bad for being 110+ years old. I think I have narrowed it down to the nub on the trigger that protrudes up through the frame and locks the cylinder. It looks very worn down. At least a place to start.

I can weld (MIG), machine, and file and polish with the best of amateurs. Its a skill that comes naturally to me. I also have Jerry Kuhnhausen's book on early Colt DA revolvers. Though i have yet to read it. I graduated top of my class from a quality full time manual machinists school, but have no formal gunsmith training.

Numrich has a used factory original trigger for 30 bucks. Nothing new. This brings me to my main question. Is the proper fix in this situation to add material to the nub with a welder, then file back to fit? Getting a used trigger is likely going to be better, but maybe not quite 'perfect' anyways.

Not all assembly numbers match, but are oddly very similar. 859 and 559. Both 8s and 5s are distinct. Serial is 79xxx luckily placing it in 1897 and as an antique, as i cant read the second line. I had to seriously clean and even buff the bottom strap just to reveal the centered 79. This is very common to find on these New Navy/Army with the serial nowhere else on the gun.

 

[Col. Harrumph]

Well son, no pics = not much help here.

 

[BigBlue 94]

Yeah, I didnt snap any of it while I had it apart. Was more asking if welding was the proper technique to lengthen the nub.

Numrich picture. Its the rounded middle nub. If this is the actual pic of the actual trigger they have, it would be great. Mine is well rounded on the edges and not crisp at all.

 

[BigBlue 94]

I opened it back up. The sideplate screws are not original. The bolt and rebound lever should also be replaced.

The bolt is the front most protrusion through the frame and the trigger nub is the rear most. The trigger nub only engages when the hammer is pulled back or the trigger is pulled in DA. Both it and the bolt could stand to be a bit more proud of the frame.

Hammer down


Hammer down


Hammer locked back, trigger nub up fully

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

Odds are, the sideplate screws were off to replace the springs- the hand looks newish too.

I dont see why you couldnt add material to the trigger, then file it back. Hardness might be an issue contributing to accelelerated wear in the long run, but I doubt you will be putting another 1000 rounds through it, lol.

 

[BigBlue 94]

Odds are, the sideplate screws were off to replace the springs- the hand looks newish too.

I dont see why you couldnt add material to the trigger, then file it back. Hardness might be an issue contributing to accelelerated wear in the long run, but I doubt you will be putting another 1000 rounds through it, lol.

Correct, I wont be shooting this much except when i pull the 1873 out thats also chambered in 32-20.

If wear happens, I can always do it again!

 

[Col. Harrumph]

I can't imagine why that can't be MIG'd or TIG'd if ya got the skillz. Probably use mild steel?... and surface harden with that stuff Brownell's sells that has never worked for me. BTW don't expect a NOS trigger to just drop in and work. Most guns back then needed a lot of hand fitting before they went out the door.