Crimping plated bullets?

[SWThomas]

I just got my first batch of plated bullets from the UPS man. They're Berry's 9MM 115g RN. Naturally, I went straight to the press to load a few and see how they compare to FMJs. I left all my dies set the way they are to load FMJs and created a few dummy rounds. I didn't have to adjust the flare at all as it is set to give me a 0.01 flare on the mouth and that was just right. Seating was fine and none of the plating was shaved off. Then I crimped it. Let me give you the measurements.

After sizing, the case measures 0.375 near the mouth.
After flaring, the mouth is expanded to 0.385.
After crimping, the mouth measures 0.378-0.379.

I pulled the bullets to inspect them and noticed a slight indentation on the plating. It was definitely created from the crimping, as I pulled one after seating and it wasn't there. It's not deep enough to cut through the plating, just enough to leave a slight ring around the bullet.

Is this fine or do I need to back off the crimp die some?

 

[ReloaderFred]

It sounds like you'll be ok. The purpose of the taper crimp in 9x19 is to remove the belling from the case mouth and restore the case mouth to the same diameter as the wall of the case. It's neck tension that holds the bullet in place in this caliber.

Hope this helps.

Fred

 

[Starter52]

I agree with Fred. I've loaded thousands of 9mm rounds with Berry's plated bullets. Your technique sounds fine to me. If the rounds chamber and fire OK, then go with it.

 

[Osageid]

That slight indention is what you want, agree with above

 

[1SOW]

Those sound good. If you use mixed headstamps, the indentation will be vary bigger/smaller depending on brass thickness and case length.
WCC and WIN are fairly thick if you want to check those for damage to the plating. Anything else will show less crimp.

I think your good-to-go. I use a lot of Berry's plated, especially the "TP"--Thick Plated bullets.

 

[Bovice]

I don't know what you're using as a crimp die, but I gather that it's a separate die from the seater. If it's thelee fcd, I set mine to what the Iinstructions call a "light crimp" for 9mm plated and jacketed and that seems to work great. I do not leave any indentation on the bullets I have pulled and checked, but with mixed brass it probably happens from time to time. My guess is that if you can see lead, you've gone too far.

Of course, I don't know what my flare measurement is offhand, so my die setting means next to nothing. It is flared enough to put a bullet on without needing to hold it upright with fingers.

 

[Reefinmike]

The copper plating isnt as fragile as you might think(atleast in my experience with berrys and xtreme). Ive roll crimped them fairly heavy with no breakage or stress, driven them to starting loads of h110 for the real magnums with good success, shot them into the shores of a rocky creak bed and discovered deformation but no breakage.

 

[PO2Hammer]

In 9mm I only crimp enough to remove the flare, but I don't flare as much as you do.
In .357 and .45 Colt I give them a pretty good crimp. Recovered bullets show a crease at the crimp, but no problems.

 

[IWAC]

I use a Dillon crimp die, and it will either taper or roll crimp. I set it for a full taper crimp, then then just a smidge of roll, to remove any belling, and move the mouth slightly into the bullet. That's for my 357... Berry's plated, Golden Sabers, cast, or jacketed bullets, cannellured or not. I set my dies for minimum flare.

Like was mentioned, case length needs to be fairly equal, for consistent results.
I hate case trimminng, so use the Lee trimmers and case holders in my electric drill, and the cutter with the big ball on it.

 

[1SOW]

Berry's standard plated bullets are alllllmost .356" diameter. .378"-.379" "taper crimp only" JUST below the case mouth should be good-to-go. It "might" just barely show on a pulled bullet at that taper crimp within 1/64" of the case mouth.
Like I mentioned above, a longer/thicker case will have more crimp.