Detective Spl Mainspring ?
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rcmodel
Member in memoriam
If you have to ask, I would leave it to the pros.
And the only Colt pros I know of that don't have a 6-18 month waiting list is at the Colt factory service center.
They have the real Colt parts & know-how to do it right.
You can find scads of DIY instructions on the Internet for S&W's.
But very little if anything for Colts.
As for finding a real Colt V-mainspring?
Good luck with that too!
rc
And the only Colt pros I know of that don't have a 6-18 month waiting list is at the Colt factory service center.
They have the real Colt parts & know-how to do it right.
You can find scads of DIY instructions on the Internet for S&W's.
But very little if anything for Colts.
As for finding a real Colt V-mainspring?
Good luck with that too!
rc
Cosmoline
Member
That revolver spans most of the 20th century so it went through some design changes. It took me a long while to find the right mainspring for my old DS after the original snapped. I believe later models used a beefier spring and it's that spring you'll find for sale nine times out of ten. The earlier models, at least from the 50's on back, used a much lighter spring.
Changing it isn't too bad but as with any repairs on old Colt DA's you're dealing with Rube Goldberg parts and little mice running around in wheels. It's a wild ride. Just keep track of where everything went and preferably have the shop manual in front of you.
Changing it isn't too bad but as with any repairs on old Colt DA's you're dealing with Rube Goldberg parts and little mice running around in wheels. It's a wild ride. Just keep track of where everything went and preferably have the shop manual in front of you.
You can change that mainspring without removing the sideplate. Use padded needle-nose or "duck beak" pliers or a special spring clamp.
The older models used a forged mainspring; that was later changed to a stamped type, but the characteristics are pretty much the same. Either can be worked on to lighten the pull but most Colts have quite light pulls already.
Jim
The older models used a forged mainspring; that was later changed to a stamped type, but the characteristics are pretty much the same. Either can be worked on to lighten the pull but most Colts have quite light pulls already.
Jim
The pre-war forged springs had a tit at the bottom of the "V" that fit into a hole in the frame. Later springs won't work in these revolvers.
Unlike in the past, Colt's website no longer lists parts for any double-action/hand ejector revolvers, and that includes the Detective Special. Recently I went looking for one, and only found "sold out" notices.
Anyway, I wish you luck.
Unlike in the past, Colt's website no longer lists parts for any double-action/hand ejector revolvers, and that includes the Detective Special. Recently I went looking for one, and only found "sold out" notices.
Anyway, I wish you luck.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
I have enough trouble compressing them and getting the hammer stirrup hooked with the side-plate off.
No way I am going to risk bending one trying to do it with the side-plate on!
The dang things are made out of unobtainium anymore.
rc
No way I am going to risk bending one trying to do it with the side-plate on!
The dang things are made out of unobtainium anymore.
rc
orionengnr
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- 5,717
Yeah, I'd definitely vote against shiping it to New Haven...especially since Colt is in Hartford.
Sorry my bad. Winchester was in New Haven, not colt. But actually Colt is in West Hartford, not Hartford.
I think my gun is a 2nd generation. It has the longer grip, and no shroud on the ejector-rod. Ive seen reproduction mainsprings from Gunparts Corp going for $20 bucks.
I think my gun is a 2nd generation. It has the longer grip, and no shroud on the ejector-rod. Ive seen reproduction mainsprings from Gunparts Corp going for $20 bucks.
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Mac's Precision
Member
If you want to get really frustrated.....try making a main spring for one. That is an exercise in developing new cuss words. It can be successfully done... I have...but...that said..I won't with exception for extreme cases. There is nothing like testing a freshly heat treated one...to hear that ominous little 'snap'. Hmmmm. Well that is too brittle! NEXT!
Cheers
Mac.
Cheers
Mac.
JDBoardman
Member
Heat it up White hot with an oxy-fuel torch, then quench in brine. Put part on side of coffee can (steel one; the cardboard or aluminum cans definately won't work). Pound a dent in the side of the can just large enough to hold the spring and a puddle of motor oil that will cover it. Put spring in dent, cover with 20 wt or 30 wt motor oil. Light oil on fire. When oil burns out, spring will be drawn and tempered (hopefully). Compress in vise. If it doesn't go "ping", you now have a new mainspring. If it does, pound dent a little deeper and try again.
While the idea of making a spring my self is very interesting, I don't think it's for me. I can barely make myself a sandwich. While I've owned revolvers for years, I've always been primarily into semi-autos. Furthermore, I've never owned a Revolver that needed to be fixed ( I take that back, I once owned a Charter Arms Pug, that just didn't work. I ended trading it for a J-Frame S&W). Anthow, the one thing this has shown me is that: While I it seems Revolvers are generally more reliable and durable than semi-autos, they are much harder to repair, if you can find someone who can repair them, and that parts for old revolvers can be hard to come by. BTW, I know someone will take issue with me for suggesting that revolvers are more durable than Semi-auto's. Keep in mind this is only an obeservation on my part.
I think I'm going to talk to my gunsmith and see if I even need a new main spring, before I go any further. I know, I should have done that first.
Thanks.
I think I'm going to talk to my gunsmith and see if I even need a new main spring, before I go any further. I know, I should have done that first.
Thanks.
I agree that in general, revolvers are more reliable than semi-autos, but....
The only two guns I have owned that had serious, totally disabling problems have been revolvers. One was a Chiefs Special with a broken hammer stud. The other was a Colt PPS whose hammer broke at the thin part below the firing pin. I easily fixed both after getting the parts, but no "immediate action", there folks. Fortunately, both incidents were on the range, not in a serious social encounter (which, thank Heaven, I have so far managed to avoid).
Jim
The only two guns I have owned that had serious, totally disabling problems have been revolvers. One was a Chiefs Special with a broken hammer stud. The other was a Colt PPS whose hammer broke at the thin part below the firing pin. I easily fixed both after getting the parts, but no "immediate action", there folks. Fortunately, both incidents were on the range, not in a serious social encounter (which, thank Heaven, I have so far managed to avoid).
Jim
triggerman770
Member
Detective Spl Mainspring
if you need a replacement, there are a couple of places not mentioned.
one is to call Jack First at 605-343-9544
or try this guy..you will have to call or email for price and availability,but he's generally had what I've needed when others did'nt. the link is to the DEt Spl
http://www.coltparts.com/pt_D_framedetectivespecial.html
if you need a replacement, there are a couple of places not mentioned.
one is to call Jack First at 605-343-9544
or try this guy..you will have to call or email for price and availability,but he's generally had what I've needed when others did'nt. the link is to the DEt Spl
http://www.coltparts.com/pt_D_framedetectivespecial.html
phaeton7919
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- Aug 5, 2011
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- 9
Colt Springs
Try retired gunsmith at [email protected]
He has most all genuine original COLT parts for the DS, I know he has both prewar and post war mainsprings
Try retired gunsmith at [email protected]
He has most all genuine original COLT parts for the DS, I know he has both prewar and post war mainsprings
Cosmoline
Member
Don't draw that conclusion from a vintage Colt DA. More modern wheelguns such as a Ruger Security Six or GP-100 are a lot easier to deal with, and don't have leaf springs that snap in the first place. The Colt innards were already pretty archaic by mid-century. They were revamped considerably around the time the Python came out, but were still pretty complex.
Cosmoline
like I said it was only an obervation. I have a couple of newer model S&W revolvers. I have never had a reason to open them up n see what the guts look like. It just seems like everyone knows about a hundred guys who work on AR's, Rem 700's, Glocks and/or 1911's. But IF you can find a guy who works on revolvers (especially Colts), it's some old dude working out of a shed in the middle of nowhere (no offence to old guys who work out of sheds).
like I said it was only an obervation. I have a couple of newer model S&W revolvers. I have never had a reason to open them up n see what the guts look like. It just seems like everyone knows about a hundred guys who work on AR's, Rem 700's, Glocks and/or 1911's. But IF you can find a guy who works on revolvers (especially Colts), it's some old dude working out of a shed in the middle of nowhere (no offence to old guys who work out of sheds).
Cosmoline
Member
Even the old guys in sheds usually won't do Colts ;-) Colt DA's are a breed apart. I remember the first time I popped the side plate off one (I was actually in a shed in rural Alaska at the time--really!), a Police Positive Special. It was like trying to figure out one of those machines that starts out with an alarm clock and ends up making toast. When they're working they're works of art, but they're not the best choice for rough duty.
In contrast, the problems I've had with modern DA's have been fixable in an evening's tweaking at most. And these have been few and far between. The worst in the past few years was a Security Six with a bent plunger that had been unscrewed in place.
In contrast, the problems I've had with modern DA's have been fixable in an evening's tweaking at most. And these have been few and far between. The worst in the past few years was a Security Six with a bent plunger that had been unscrewed in place.
It should be remembered that the particular Colt's under discussion were introduced in 1908 - over a century ago. They were not bad revolvers. It should be obvious they wouldn't have lasted as long as they did if they were, but it should also be understandable why experienced 'smiths and parts to repair them aren't easily available sometimes.
Smith & Wesson and Ruger revolvers are a different story, and it's a fact that in all three cases more guns are put out of action by neglect or action-tampering, then by broken parts. If not messed with they will all keep ticking for a long, long time - and you don't have to worry about a extract/eject/feeding cycle.
Today's pistols are designed so they can usually be repaired with "drop in" parts. Older revolvers weren't made that way. When labor costs were lower, skilled hand craftsmanship had a lot going for it, but we are unlikely to see those days again.
That said, the Old Fuff still prefers the old ways...
Smith & Wesson and Ruger revolvers are a different story, and it's a fact that in all three cases more guns are put out of action by neglect or action-tampering, then by broken parts. If not messed with they will all keep ticking for a long, long time - and you don't have to worry about a extract/eject/feeding cycle.
Today's pistols are designed so they can usually be repaired with "drop in" parts. Older revolvers weren't made that way. When labor costs were lower, skilled hand craftsmanship had a lot going for it, but we are unlikely to see those days again.
That said, the Old Fuff still prefers the old ways...
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