EDC Knife

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Good inexpensive knife.
Bought it on-sale from Midway, $25. I don't have a folding or sheath knife that costs over $100, most are under $50. I'd like to try a $200 pocket knife but I've never seen one in the wild, just on websites.
 
Grabbed a Kershaw Blur serrated for about $60. Couldn’t pass up the deal.
 
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Bought it on-sale from Midway, $25. I don't have a folding or sheath knife that costs over $100, most are under $50. I'd like to try a $200 pocket knife but I've never seen one in the wild, just on websites.
I have owned a few but not for long...
The expensive knives are the 1st ones I loose.
:uhoh: :scrutiny:
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Before I say anything else, I don't like Assisted Opening knives because it's just one more moving part to break and I've never been in a situation in which having an Assisted Opener would have made a difference.

The knife above is a Buck 110 Slim Select. I carried it my last six months working. It was a replacement for a McHenry Williams Benchmade 710 that had carried at work that I lost (and later found) that was a gift from a friend and irreplaceable.

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Anyway, because I was carrying it at work I wanted to make sure that it would cut a seatbelt. So I cut the seat belt out of a junked car at work I used all of my knives to slice it to ribbons just to make sure they would, and they did.
 
I enjoy playing with the various autos though realized that that quick assisted opening of the blade is far from discreet. I like some of the dual function that have the option to open in manually which is quiet. Cannot do anything about those OTF types, pretty obvious there. Some of the autos have some torque when opened especially those with larger blades that one has to have a good hold on.
 
I have owned/carried serrated knives but never was impressed with any performance advantage of it.
Now, I sharpen standard edged knives differently to get what I call a micro-serrated edge.

I never go beyond the roughest stone with my Lanske sharpener and stroke it straight off the edge, index the stone over one width of the stone, and stroke it straight off the edge again and repeat this for the entire length of the blade.
So, this is the opposite direction of Lanske's directions but creates micro serrations perpendicular to the blade; sort of like a steak knife...

I never shave with my pocketknife and see no need to sharpen it to do that (shave-my-arm) as proof of a "good" edge.
I have tested knives sharpened this way (micro-serrated) on rope and webbing and they cut easier than a knife "shave-your-arm" sharpened.
Try it, you have nothing to lose.
jmo,
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Edit: my EDC Kershaw Link 1776 flipper:
View attachment 1158494
with some added jibbing:
View attachment 1158496
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Coarse finishes can be great for a variety of tasks. I take mine to a low micron/high polish because I like to wood carve. If I didn’t I would probably never sharpen beyond a 400 or 600 grit unless I just wanted to for fun.
 
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