Elk hunting flattops wilderness

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sam700

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Along with the Porcupine Mountains trip I mentioned in another post, I’m also planning an Elk hunting/ backpacking trip this October in the Flattops Wilderness in Colorado and was looking for advice from those who had visited the area. I have to admit that I am behind on planning for this trip and as a result, will probably not be successful in filling my tag, but I will look at this year’s trip as a scouting trip for next year’s hunt. I’m not going with an outfitter, so I don’t have to worry about trying to schedule that short notice.

First, is it too late for a nonresident to get a tag?

Also, how easy it to get a tag for the area you want assuming you are hunting in a wilderness area like this?

Finally, the area varies in elevation from 9000 to 12000 feet. I know the elk move downhill as it gets cooler. What elevation am I most likely to find them in mid to late October? Is there any specific temperature range that I am most likely to find them?

If I backpack in a few miles, how likely am I to run into other hunters. I’m ordering some topo maps and if the terrain is as forgiving as my research indicated I’m going to do 90% of the trip off the trails.

Feel free to share any related experiences that I may find helpful. I know I’m a bit behind in planning this trip, especially considering that I have never hunted elk before. Again, I’m looking at this year as being more of a trial for next year.
 
First, is it too late for a nonresident to get a tag?

Also, how easy it to get a tag for the area you want assuming you are hunting in a wilderness area like this?
Unless there are special requirements for that area, you should be able to buy a tag across the counter. There is no drawing for elk in Colorado -- it's like whitetail deer in the east.

Finally, the area varies in elevation from 9000 to 12000 feet. I know the elk move downhill as it gets cooler. What elevation am I most likely to find them in mid to late October? Is there any specific temperature range that I am most likely to find them?
You're most likely to find them above 11,000 feet, on the steepest slopes, in the thickest "dark" timber.

You can't control the temperature, but you can go high.
If I backpack in a few miles, how likely am I to run into other hunters. I’m ordering some topo maps and if the terrain is as forgiving as my research indicated I’m going to do 90% of the trip off the trails.
Not bloody likely -- get a quarter mile off a trail and you won't see anyone. If you stand on a trail, however, you may be run down by the ATV brigade zipping up and down the trails, "hunting" at 40 mph.
 
I have not hunted there but I was just up fly fishing in Meeker Colorado.
I stayed at the Sleepy Cat lodge about 15 miles north of Meeker and
there is I think 6000 acres aross the road from there that is state
land open for hunting. I did see a few Elk and the Deer were everywhere.
 
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Quote: "Feel free to share any related experiences that I may find helpful. I know I’m a bit behind in planning this trip, especially considering that I have never hunted elk before."

The weather can range from sunshine and 70s at noon to blizzard conditions by 2:00.

Even cow elk are a big animal, not something I'd want to have to pack out alone.

And that air up there gets real thin. Ounces do matter, especially if you must go up near the end of the day. ;)
 
GREYBEARD - "The weather can range from sunshine and 70s at noon to blizzard conditions by 2:00."

You've got that right!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've had it happen to me twice. Once hunting up out of Paonia in the Lost Lake area; the second time when hunting up in the Wiminuchee area n.e. of Durango.

Be prepared! Good luck and good hunting.

L.W.
 
Unless there are special requirements for that area, you should be able to buy a tag across the counter. There is no drawing for elk in Colorado -- it's like whitetail deer in the east.

Actually there is a draw for elk in Colorado. The only tag you can buy over the counter is a Bull tag for certain areas. But good news you can go on line to the Colorado DOW website and look for leftover draw tags. Make sure you know where you want to hunt and pick the same game unit for the tag. There is a lot of public land in Colorado so finding a place to hunt is not that hard.
You're most likely to find them above 11,000 feet, on the steepest slopes, in the thickest "dark" timber

Elk are very rarely above timberline which is around 10000 feet they like cover and are not that fond of people tromping around. So the further you are willing to go the more elk you will see just remember that a nice cow weighs 600 pounds and a good bull can push 800. So if you shoot one in the middle of no where be prepared to either eat it there or pack a lot of meat down the mountain.

Good luck
 
I hope I don’t see any ATV’s seeing as how flattops is a federal wilderness area and ATV’s are not allowed there. On the other hand, I’m sure there are plenty of people who disregard this. I’ve never come across anyone on an ATV in any of Wisconsin’s wilderness areas, but I have no experience with Colorado.

It sounds like so far, I need to be ready for lots of snow. As far as bringing the meat out, with any luck, we will have a few non-hunters in the group who are just along for the hike who have graciously agreed to help bring out any meat we are lucky enough to get (Kind of a long shot since we’re not with a guide and I’m throwing the trip together at the last second.)

If we are lucky enough to tag an elk, from what I'm hearing it sounds like there is a good chance that we may have to deal with warm weather on some of the days. In Wisconsin and Upper Michigan this usually isn’t an issue as our deer season is in the end of November. Realistically, how long after shooting an Elk would I have to get it someplace cool assuming a 70 degree temperature in the day. I would imagine it wouldn’t be long.

Anyone have any secrets for making the meat last longer other than opening everything up to let it cool and hoping for a good freeze at night?
 
Anyone have any secrets for making the meat last longer other than opening everything up to let it cool and hoping for a good freeze at night?

First of all, elk are big. Second, they're well-insulated. Simply opening up an elk usually won't do it -- it takes too long for the heat to migrage from the bones to the surface, especially in warm conditions.

The best way to deal with an elk is to position the animal belly-down on the ground, then make a cut down the backbone, and peel the hide off, then butcher off the meat. When one side is done, roll the animal over and butcher the other side. I like to put the meat in plastic bags.

I cache the bags under spruce boughs and put a sweaty garment on the pile. I mark the area with plastic flagging tape, make a waypoint on my GPS and hike out with what I can carry -- antlers and loin, usually.

When I can, I make arrangements with locals ahead of time to provide a horse and tack -- even with two or three people, the horse will definitely pay for itself when it comes to taking out an elk.
 
The sooner you get the hide off your elk, the better, The hide is thick and is a good insulator so you can't leave it on for long.

The Flattops area is not entirely wilderness. There are forest roads and trails going through a good portion of it. Parts of it ARE wilderness though so you shouldn't see any vehicles in there. The trails I saw in the wilderness area were foot trails and too narrow for ATV's although I suppose dirt bikes would do it. We never saw any indication of motor vehicle traffic there and hopefully that will continue.

Chains would be a good thing to take along since some of those trails can get pretty nasty when wet even with 4WD with good tires.

Last time I was fishing in the Flattops several years ago, there were dead fish covering the bottom of many of the small lakes there (Heart, Adams, Blue Lakes) and we saw no evidence of any living fish in these lakes. Deep Lake was the only lake where we saw any live fish.
Does anyone know what happened there? Did they have a particularly hard winter freeze or something?
Are things back to normal there now?
 
The dead fish were probably suffocated. Lots of the lakes are pretty shallow, and if they are covered with deep snow for long, the oxygen content of the water drops to lethal levels. Some lakes winter kill, but many are either deep enough or have inlet/outlet streams and don't.
 
ATV's and Wilderness

I've been hunting the flat tops about 8 yrs. and usually the last regular rifle season. This is the first year I'll go first reg. rifle season because that's just the way my personal schedule fell this fall. I don't usually see ATV's penetrate wilderness area because it's marked on even the most remote trails and usually too far to get too at least from the south. I do see people go off trail to retrieve meat in the National Forrest part. When we drop something in the Wilderness area we make sure that we gut, skin, quarter, and hang the quarters up high in a pine tree to reduce chances of predator interference. Even in October the night temperatures at altitude are enough to keep the meat safe. There are hundreds of square miles to hunt in the flat tops w/out getting into wilderness but if you do, remember to bring a couple of those long plastic kids sleds and plenty of rope. It's much easier and better for your back. Also; don't pack the rack out on your back like they show in all the magazines without covering it in orange plastic or something like that. I'm sure you can imagine why.
Enjoy your hunt and welcome to Colorado!
 
Re: Boning and cooling

It's a good idea to have a couple coolers filled with ice (I start freezing old milk jugs full of ice in August) back in your rig. Just throw the boned-out meat in the cooler on each return to your truck.
 
I was looking online the otherday and the only OTC tags avail were for GMU 025/026. There were 697 avail when I looked.

And if there is a lot of snow, they will move down below to the valleys, they will not work hard for food like a deer will.
 
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