Feed/chambering problems

[TomKat]

New P95PR, took it to the range twice. First time out my wife and I put 200 rounds through it with a lot of feed jams and a few failure to chambers. I chalked it up to some of the old ammo and my wife's week wrists. Took it out this morning and put a new box of Federal 115 FMJ thought it and it failed to chamber the last round (I had to pull back the slide manually to chamber it). I also put a box of winchester 115 HPs through it (most of the box anyway) with no issues. I did notice that my feed ramp gets black as night real fast, is that normal? I also notice that there are some dings on the feed ramp where the nose of the round hits, is that normal too? I'll probably call Ruger Monday and see what they say, but I'm wondering why this gun has been completely unreliable from the start when so many people have no issues with feeding and chambering?

 

[The Lone Haranguer]

I smell a magazine problem. If it came with two magazines, does it do it with both of them? Devise a method of marking them (e.g., numbered with Wite-Out on the baseplate) and see which one (or both) is being used when the stoppages occur. Also, the gun was cleaned and relubricated before you shot it the first time, right?

 

[Zerodefect]

Haha no worries!

My Ruger P95 did the same thing. A fail to return to battery is a simple problem and easy to fix.

Keep in mind the p95 is a tank. Your defensive ammo should be +p or even +p+. You'll notice it'll be alot more reliable with stronger ammo. WWB plinking ammo is quite weak. But that's ok, we need to practice failures anyway. I have plenty of old Federal Hydrashock +P+ for mine.

Also, see if you can find quality 14 round mags. I use a very poor quality Protech ( I think that's what they were called) 14 rounder in mine, and it works well.

I polished the feed ramp on my barrel. I used a dremel and the cotton bullet with the dremel orange polishing paste. Turtle wax chrome polish and the dremel work very well also. I also polished the outside of the barrel slightly to reduce friction.

I use 40wt engine oil to lube mine. I also have had great luck with my new ATF/STP mix.

 

[Lonestar49]

Start, again, fresh..

...

Disassemble your gun, give it a good cleaning, re-lube the rails and guides, get some Flitz gun polish and polish the feed ramp and the barrel chamber - not the muzzle/spiraled, bullet spin-up, part, just the rear chamber of the barrel.

Try and find a synthetic cleaner/ lubricant, in one, such as Eezox and use it to clean the interior of your mag walls and spring (actually your entire gun, anything metal, inside or outside of your gun and it will not harm any plastic..

You can leave an ice like sheen/film of it within the mags once they, the gun pads or Q- tips you're using come out clean, your done, close them back up.. Eezox is a dry-lubricant and over time as it drys, it bonds to, within any metal pours making any metal to metal contact slippery and does not attract dust, dirt, spent powder like oil will..

If you can't find Eezox, CLP is your second best choice..

If this doesn't solve the jamming problems then, as mentioned, you'll need to send the gun back with description of ammo, round count/s that it starts to jam and. include both mags, all mags, that it jams with all of them.

Give it a good cleaning first, as mentioned, and see what happens..

Luck,


Ls

 

[TomKat]

I didn't clean it originally, the guy who sold it to me at the gun store said to shoot it first before I clean it. So we took it out and put 200 through it... Shouldn't it shoot ok out of the box? Should I need to polish the ramp on a new gun? It seems to me that it should work from start shouldn't it?

 

[Skylerbone]

I'd be careful of polishing the feed ramp especially with a Dremel. I'd avoid the chamber all together. You can do a lot of harm in a little time even with "jeweler's rouge". It will be difficult to explain to Ruger how the feed ramp wound up so shiny yet out of shape.

Clean any firearm before firing, regardless of what the monkey behind the counter tells you. Shoot reliable ammo only, you are trusting your fingers, eyes and face to the explosives in your hand. Give it another go, note any problems and contact customer service if needed.

 

[TomKat]

Great advise! I agree 100%, I'm going to speak with Ruger and see if they want to take a look at it or if I should have another go or not. I've learned my lesson on the old ammo, besides I only have one set of eyes and hands. Thanks much.
TC

 

[788Ham]

Lonestar49,

I'm wanting to thank you from the bottom of my heart!! Your suggestion to TomKat, for the use of Flitz to polish up the feed ramp and barrel chamber in his auto,it wouldn't feed right. I picked up a Beretta 1935 .32 auto about 2 months ago, the feed ramp wasn't bad, but a Hell of a long way from smooth. I just got back from dwnstrs, took my Dremel and polished it up with Flitz, it is so smooth now, also shines like a diamond in a goats a$$. I'd been using 0000 steel wool, a long way from what it is now though. I have found more helpful hints on this web than any I've ever looked at. Lonestar49, thanks and a tip of the hat from Colorado.

 

[DenaliPark]

I didn't clean it originally, the guy who sold it to me at the gun store said to shoot it first before I clean it. So we took it out and put 200 through it... Shouldn't it shoot ok out of the box? Should I need to polish the ramp on a new gun? It seems to me that it should work from start shouldn't it?

He told you "not to clean it" before shooting it? Ruger's almost always come lathered in grease, or a thick protective oil, regardless every new firearm needs to be cleaned and carefully inspected before being fired!
I don't believe your gun is out of sorts, Ruger's are notorious for being picky until you break them in a bit, thats why it's stacking up on you, its likely just tight and needs to be shot in....

 

[Lonestar49]

Polishing the feed ramp and barrel chamber - Kiss

Lonestar49,

I'm wanting to thank you from the bottom of my heart!! Your suggestion to TomKat, for the use of Flitz to polish up the feed ramp and barrel chamber in his auto,it wouldn't feed right. I picked up a Beretta 1935 .32 auto about 2 months ago, the feed ramp wasn't bad, but a Hell of a long way from smooth. I just got back from dwnstrs, took my Dremel and polished it up with Flitz, it is so smooth now, also shines like a diamond in a goats a$$. I'd been using 0000 steel wool, a long way from what it is now though. I have found more helpful hints on this web than any I've ever looked at. Lonestar49, thanks and a tip of the hat from Colorado

...

You're very welcome.. TY for the generous feed back

Now, to the OP et. al. -

First, your gun clerk is nuts/crazy/incompetent, and seriously negligent, to suggest you just take the gun "as is" and just go shoot it before any "inspection/cleaning/and fresh lubrication" unless he opened it up for you and showed you it was clean and lubed and rdy to fire, if not, then let my outrage stand, OMMV, but I doubt it.

:
Ref: Polishing the feed ramp and barrel chamber (not using Dremel tool) - by Keeping It Simple using the Kiss method -

Also, forgetting to mention in my post part about polishing your feed ramp and the chamber of the barrel is "easy and safe" IF you just use a Q-tip to do the light polishing on the feed ramp (in an up and down motion only) otherwise, in the same direction that that bullets slide up it, into the chamber. The polishing of the chamber of the barrel is best done with the barrel out of the gun so you can get all sides equally polished, again, with a Q-tip, both to apply and clean/polish, let stand for a few minutes, then take new, clean, Q-tip/s and remove dried polish, again, going only up and down on the feed ramp.

This easy, light, process will not harm nor change the feed ramps angle but it will make it much "smoother" and will help a lot with bullet feeding, especially JHP's.

It will last, at first, aprox 500 rounds, so on your third cleaning, re-polish it and it should re-benefit your guns feed cycling longer until another need/when and if you experience a feed issue here and there..

Otherwise: with dirty blow back action - inspect, clean, and re-lube every 200 - 300 rounds IMHO. (and if it will go 300 rounds, as mine never, nor, could do) thru 1450 rounds from NIB and with all new, good, ammo, before the call (the jams started) even with feed ramp polishing/cleaning and I sold it, getting an SA EMP 1911 9mm SAO 9+1 with much cleaner - closed breach action vs blow-back action.

The big difference being it can, and does, go 800 - 1000 flawless rounds, easy, without need of total disassembly and cleanings.. And it fits very nicely in my front left pocket in its holster for easy, quick, crossdraw, usage, if necessary. But it, too, needed the feed ramp and "very tight barrel chamber" to be polished for it to work without early FTF issues and as mentioned above, how I did it, the easy way, and when, has worked with its flawless round count now, from NIB, just over 7100 rounds.

I might add, that with the EMP's feed ramp, with barrel out of gun, after the Q-tip method, but early round count, wise, still getting a FTF here and there, my second polishing I just used a cotton gun pad and thumb pressure, very firm, up and down, only, on the feed ramp for a deeper cleaning and finer polish. Worked like a charm from that point on i.e high round counts, no FTF, and less cleaning time..

Simply put, for an extra 4 bucks (for a tube of Flitz gun Polish) that will last you a lifetime, and an extra 10 mins of cleaning time i.e the polishing, then letting it dry, then removal and final buff, will be well worth the extra investment of your time and money.

OMMV,

Luck, again


Ls