First attempt at checkering

[bangswitch]

I'm putting an original replacement stock on my 12 Gauge Fox B and wanted it to match the original fore end. I got the stock from www.gunstocks.com. Nice piece of walnut, but they are sold requiring final inletting and some shaping to fit. That's all done now.

I once had a 20 gauge Fox B identical to this 12 gauge, so I remembered the checker pattern on the pistol grip. It has two fleur-de-lis, which I thought might be a bit of a challenge, since I haven't tried this before, but, in for a penny....

I bought a full set of DemBart checkering tools, with cutters for 16 lpi and 20 lpi, and decided to do 16 lpi on the pistol grip. Now, the fore end checkering is impressed and not cut, but I plan to cut the checkering into the pressed pattern (I'm about 1/3 of the way, and it's working fine). The fore end pattern required the 20 lpi cutters so it will be a bit finer. I'll also sand and re-oil the fore end to match the finish of the stock. I'm using teak oil; it's very similar to tung oil, but thinner and designed to penetrate dense wood like ebony, teak, and mahogany. 5 or 6 coats will usually fill the grain.

I sanded the stock down to 220 grit, and then applied two coats of oil, sanding the wet oiled finish with 600 grit and then wiping it after letting it penetrate an hour. After these coats dried, I traced my pattern onto masking tape applied to the stock pistol grip, and then cut in the outline with an exacto knife, removed the tape and started in. I used a small veining cutter to deepen the outline, then laid my master lines for the checks. After all the cutting and cleaning up of the lines, I've got two more coats of teak oil on. At least two more will go on after that, then a fine rubbing with 4-0 steel wool, and several coats of BriWax. I also have a reproduction pistol grip cap on order to finish it off.

It's tedious work; after several evenings and a long rainy afternoon, here is the result. I have the fore end up to compare the patterns. I can point out many, many.....many small screw ups, but overall I'm happy with the result. It looks almost as good as the factory cut checkering on the 1950 Fox B 20 gauge I have. Any critiques welcome.

 

[Candyman87]

Looks great! I'd be damn proud of that effort!

 

[Crisisbill]

Looks great

Wow, that really looks nice and clean, great detail. I also love the finish on the wood. I have an old Remington 81 that I have wanted to refinish and possibly checker but haven't had the time or guts

 

[hq]

Damn. Seeing the pictures just cost me over a hundred bucks. I've wanted to do my own checkering for a long time and now I just had to order a checkering tool set. That's a very impressive result, especially for a first attempt at checkering.

 

[bangswitch]

Thanks, guys; I've been a woodworker for a long time, but haven't done a lot of hand carving or work like this. It's straightforward, and you can clean up a screw-up to some degree (depends on just how bad it was). My advice to you, hq, is to get a scrap of wood and practice the technique before tackling your prized goose gun.

Youtube has some really good videos, too.

 

[ApacheCoTodd]

Looks good to me.

Looking at the photos though, it looks as though the pistol grip area is cut-checkered and the fore-end is stamped. Is that the case?

Todd.

 

[BBBBill]

Form post #1

Now, the fore end checkering is impressed and not cut, but I plan to cut the checkering into the pressed pattern (I'm about 1/3 of the way, and it's working fine)....

 

[Zeke/PA]

Very nice work!

 

[ironworkerwill]

Dude, that looks great!

 

[Louca]

Bangswitch,

Welcome to the world of gun detailing, specifically checkering! It is addicting and rewarding. I wanted to emphasize to others, and you probably already know this, that PATIENCE IS CRITICAL when checkering. Go slowly and practice a lot. I checkered several patterns on flat and curved surfaces many times before I actually cut into a good stock.

You have done a good job! And since you didn't mention any blood, sweat, tears, or frustration, I would say you have done better than most on their first try. 20 LPI is not easy. You said there were many mistakes, and that observation means you will do even better next time. You do have another project after this one, right?

Lou

 

[bangswitch]

I don't have anything in the works once I finish this stock, but who knows? My goal here was to return the shotgun to its original appearance, although the factory checkering on this gun was impressed (stamped). I finished the buttstock last night, and am part way through converting the impressed checkering on the fore end to cut checkering. Once I finish that, clean it up and remove the old finish, I'll oil it the same way I did the stock, and then everything will match. This gun had a replacement stock and it was not the correct "cut" for the Fox B

I don't know what I'll do with the stock I took off; it is a beautiful piece of tiger walnut. The pics below show my new stock next to the one that was on the gun, and the fore end that I'm working on now.

 

[gojuice101]

Wow. That looks great. I'd never guess that was a first attempt. I always wanted to try checkering because I like the look, but me and wood don't get along very well.

 

[Reloadron]

Wow, you did a heck of a job. Really work to be proud of. I shudder to think of the damage I would do. Very nice!

Ron

 

[Scooter22]

I'll just say ditto to what everyone else said. Looks great.

 

[BCRider]

GOOD GRIEF! ! ! ! For a "first attempt" you did great. Oh sure, there's a few smaller warts in the work but I'll bet it only shows up when YOU are looking at it with a magnifying glass! We're often our own worst critics after all.

The only real thing I'm seeing which would be good to work on is that the checkering is a bit broken looking. I'm thinking that you may have used a little too much pressure and caused some of the wood to crumble and tear away instead of polishing it smooth. Or possibly you didn't clear out the dust from the tool often enough. Maybe test on some scrap to see which changes produce cleaner and better defined pyramids.

I assume you've seen the great videos by Larry Potter of Midway USA concerning chequering? I know that they are more of an overview but there's lots of close ups of his technique which might help.

 

[bangswitch]

The only real thing I'm seeing which would be good to work on is that the checkering is a bit broken looking. I'm thinking that you may have used a little too much pressure and caused some of the wood to crumble and tear away instead of polishing it smooth. Or possibly you didn't clear out the dust from the tool often enough. Maybe test on some scrap to see which changes produce cleaner and better defined pyramids.
.

Those pics of the fore end are far from complete. On the one hand, it's not too hard to follow the original lines of the impressed checkering, but I've discovered that it's sort of a two-stage process. I have to convert diamond-shaped "dimples" to diamond-shaped "pyramids", and then go back and smooth the grooves. I tried using the #3L and #4R tools, they match up with 20 lines per inch that the impressed checkering has, but I've found that I'm getting a better result to just use the #1F cutter and actually use it on a pull stroke (cuts faster on the push). Once I get the cut lines established (which is what you're looking at in the pictures), I go back and clean them up and they look fine. The viewing angle also makes it look worse than it is.

In retrospect, I'd have just left the impressed checkering alone if I'd known it was going to be this big a PITA. It takes longer than cutting new lines. I also have to redefine the borders. I'll post up some more pics after getting the cutting and sanding done and get a coat or two of oil in the wood.

I think it was Larry's Midway videos I watched before diving into the deep end. He sure made it look easy Actually, I'm having a lot of fun with this. It sure is tedious, but it keeps me out of the bars and off the streets at night.