first handgun... S&W 686 .357, Sig P226 DAK 9mm, or BHP 9mm?

[Doug Add]

You have received excellent recommendations, not much I can add. Your three choices nearly match my first three centerfire handguns. My first was actually a SIG P239, but it did not fit my hand very well so I sold it and bought a BHP. Great ergonomics, easy to shoot and accurate.

Next I bought a 4" 686-4, which is perhaps one of the smoothest and most comfortable handguns I have ever shot. I had to sell it to pay some unexpected medical expenses, but have since replaced it with a 4" 586. I may yet get the 686 back, the fellow I sold it to still has it.

I traded my BHP for a SIG P228, which for my situation, is a better carry gun. I have taken such a liking to the P228 as an all around handgun that not much else interests me (bought and sold a 1911--just didn't compare to the SIG). I would second the recommendation to consider the 228/229 platform over the 226 if you ever intend to use it as a carry gun. For 9mm I think the 228 is better because it is ever so slightly lighter.

The ammo cost is a consideration, but it is real hard to beat a 4" 686 as an all-purpose handgun. If concealed carry is in your future, that would push my recommendation toward the SIG.

 

[cnyankee]

my first handgun was a s&w 686+ (7 round) and is still one of my favorite guns.4 in barrel fits well in my hand, well balanced, accurate, and shoots 3 different rounds.

 

[Waitone]

Get a good fix on ammo costs and let that number help steer your decision. Cost of acquisition and cost of ownership are two entirely different figures.

 

[Baba Louie]

All great advice (as usual).

You've got HD covered w/ the 870P already.

Since this is your first handgun and you've already got more than one shottie, I'd opine that this also won't be your last handgun... cause they're like that brand of potato chip where ya can't eat just one...

So for your first (of many?) I'd get the L-frame... but I'd look for a lightly used 586 (I just love blued S&W's... who doesn't?), get some grips on it that fit right (there are many to choose from), buy some bulk ammo in both .38 & .357 and practice practice practice (all DA) until I had it down cold. 3 yd, 5 yd, 10 yd, 15 and 25 yd with a few 50 - 100 yd just for grins and snickers (and confidence). Strong and weak handed. One target, then two; still, then moving (in case you ever decide to hunt) etc.

In fact, I'd probably buy two (I have several wheelies of diff barrel lengths) just to have a backup. Good holster and belt too. (but only req'd if you plan to hike and plink, shoot at outdoor public ranges or hunt)

Take a class.

Then plan on saving till you can buy the BHP. (It's only money )
Different felt recoil, what with the slide going back and forth and all. Minimal, but different, no limp wristing allowed.

THEN... I'd get the SIG.

But that's me.

I like handguns... and rifles... and the occasional shotgun as well.

And there is something about early (pre-lock/2001) S&W blued revolvers that... well, once you own one, you're sorta hooked and you'll see what I mean. Stainless is nice, but I'm prejudiced FOR the blued variety.

It's a great problem to resolve. Have fun doing so. Let us know your results too, please.

 

[Chris17404]

Hi everyone,

I am overwhelmed with how many well-thought-out, quality responses I got to my first post! Thank you very much. I appreciate you all sharing your knowledge and experience with me.

It does look like the 686 was by far the most popular choice. That's kinda the way I was originally thinking also.

Baba Louie, I think your suggestion is the way I'm going to go. I really like the blued S&W revolvers also.

OK, so for the sake of argument, let's say I've decided on the 686/586 as my first handgun. I need you guys to take me to school on this model:

1. I know there are a lot of good models out there, both new and used. What do I need to be aware of with the various model years, etc?

2. What model years are generally consider "better" than others? I know some people don't like MIM parts. I really don't know much about the manufacturing process.

3. What is a "pre-lock" gun?

4. If I go with a used revolver, what should I look out for in the buying process?

5. What do the dashes mean, e.g. 686-5? Where are they marked on the revolver?

6. Looking at the revolver, how can I tell what year it was made in?

FYI... I did mine the archives to try to answer these questions, but I didn't really find good answers to them.

Thanks again for all your input!

Chris

 

[Chris17404]

Oh... and thanks for the compliments on my choice of HD shotgun. It's the 870P model #4899... blued barrel/receiver, wood furniture, no mag extension. I can't take full credit for it, though. Our friends over in the shotgunning section of this forum steered me to it. I just "pulled the trigger". Sorry, bad pun.

Chris

 

[Doug Add]

There are many, many people here who know more about revolvers than I do, but here are a couple quick answers until the others reply.

The dashes after S&W model numbers indicate various changes made to the model, so that a 686-5 would be a newer model than a 686-2. The markings appear on the crane, visible when you open the cylinder.

The newer models have an internal lock that is keyed from the left side of the frame. Many folks despise this feature, thus the preference for "pre-lock" models.

I believe I am correct in saying that the 686-4 model I had was the last with no MIM parts (If I am wrong someone will soon correct my mistake).

Look for the revolver check-out sticky at the top of the revolver section for good advice on what to look for in evaluating a used gun.

As for dating, S&W customer service can give you a production date if you supply the serial number.

 

[RustyShackelford]

The SIG/FH High Power SFS

I like the new SIGarms P-226DAK R 9mm design. If you have the $$$ I would buy a new one quick, .

The High Power 9mm is a well known and popular model with SWAT/spec ops/etc "back in the day, ". Most special ops troopers use more updated sidearms now. The new High Power SFS model is worth a good look. To keep it short, the trigger system is fast, safe and easy to work in critical incidents(hone attacks/carjackings/armed robbery/etc). When you hit the safety, the SFS hammer cocks back allowing a SA(single action) type shot.

Whatever you decide to buy, I would get a valid CC license/permit for your area even if you really may not carry concealed firearms. Holding a valid carry permit would show the criminal justice system or any media/jury members in your area that you are an upstanding law-abiding citizen if you are faced with a shooting/use of force incident. You would also have immediate access to your weapon/weapons to carry concealed if you have a threat or a criminal/criminal's family members target you after a gun related incident. Threats/witness intimidation is not common but if you have a major problem with a street gang or criminal element you have a CC option, .

For the 9mm use 124gr +P bonded Remington Golden Saber or 124gr +P bonded Speer Gold Dot loads or Magsafe/Glaser Silver/Extremeshock for home protection.

Here are some good sites: www.sigarms.com www.highpower.com www.corbon.com www.natchezss.com www.gunsamerica.com

All the best;
RS

 

[Chris17404]

RustyShackelford,

Thanks for the reply. It looks like the website www.highpower.com you listed is not up. Perhaps it was a typo? Or maybe the website no longer exists? Thanks!

Chris

 

[4719]

I'd go with the 686. Its brute strong and can handle all kinds of ammunition. Very good gun to learn on. When you want a semiauto, I'd go with the SIG DAK. Trigger will be simular to 686, no decocker - like the 686. Keep things simple if possible.

 

[Buzz]

I'll put one more vote in for the 686

 

[Trebor]

Try all three and go with the one that feels best in your hand. If you can shoot all three, even better.

They are all good guns. My choice would be the Browning High Power (Or CZ-75B, but that wasn't on your list). The High Power feels very good in the hand and shoots very well. 9mm practice ammo is also cheaper then .38 Special ammo, so you can shoot more for the same price.

Still, try all three and see what "feels right." Fit is very underated with handgun selection. You may also find that while you like a certain gun "on paper", that when you try it, you don't like it nearly as much as you thought you would.