First impressions of the Ruger Mk IV 10”

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Riomouse911

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After losing several auctions for S&W Model 63 kit guns over the past few months, I went out and bought a blued Ruger MK IV 10” and a stainless/walnut 10/22 International from Buds Gunstore online for a tiny bit more than the used (but nice) Model 63’s were selling for.

Due to the ‘rona shutdown, I haven’t had a chance to really get out and shoot the gun and check it out until yesterday. The indoor range is again open, so off I went.

The good:
The fitted box it comes with is an absolute suitcase. It’s big, but it had to fit a pistol that’s 14 1/4” long from stem to stern. It’ll hog up room on your shelf and in your vehicle on the way to the range, but it is a good protective case.
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The function was Ruger-simple. Loading the mags was easy with the button on the mag and the charging handles on the bolt are easy to grip. It came with two nickel-plated 10-round mags, which will make it easy to tell apart from my other Mark pistol Mags.

Being used to the heel-located mag release of my other Ruger auto pistols the thumb release location took me a bit to get used to, but it is much easier to utilize. As it touched my thumb as I held it, I could even feel it pop out a fraction of an inch on the last shot. I knew when the mag was done the instant the tenth round was fired.

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Fit and finish was flawless. Not a tool mark or thin bluing spot or other flaw was seen on any part. They also moved the litigation banner under the barrel when it should have been since the day Curtis Numbnuts, ESQ. convinced Bill Ruger that plastering it all over the gun would somehow reduce his liability in a defective product lawsuit.

The barrel has a recessed crown that my 6.5” MK II Govt Target doesn’t have. I like this tiny bit of possible damage insurance, especially with the muzzle sitting so far out there. It is a bit easy to knock the muzzle if you’re not careful.

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The front sight was a flat-patridge style, not the undercut front on my MK II. I have to paint my front sights now with the white/orange model paint treatment so I couldn’t tell any difference. Out of the box it was right on the money at 20 yards with the Armscor 36 gr HP I decided to shoot through it, so I didn’t have to fiddle with the sights at all.
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Accuracy was as expected with the MK IV, it shot point of aim and is more accurate than I am at 20 yds. I will admit that holding the gun out in a two-hand hold while shooting one per second for a few magazines in a row can sometimes make me get a little bit wobbly by shots 8-9-10, so tossing the one out of the 10 ring was my fault entirely. (My 14 yr old LASIK procedure causes the left of center grouping, I’ll be adjusting the sights accordingly next time out.) This is 50 of the plinking-grade Armscor 36 gr HP, fired two-hand at a one per second cadence at 20 yds on an NRA B-27:
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The one-button takedown for cleaning is awesome! The person (or team) who designed this system should be knighted! (I also have a Standard 4.5” Ruger, both it and the MK II are not fun to take down and put back together!)

The fair:
The trigger is a bit gritty and the pull weight measured 3 lb 6 oz on my Lyman gauge. (This compares to a crisp 1 lb 9 oz for my Standard and another crisp 1 lb 11 oz on the MK II. ) For a pure target gun it should have come from the factory at 2 lbs +\-. Since I don’t want to peen the chamber dry-firing is out, so I hope this smooths up more with more use. If not, I may have to go aftermarket (Volquartsen) to bring the trigger up to snuff.

Upon release, the magazine launches from the grip like a torpedo from the bow of a submarine. On a combat pistol that’s good because it drops out when a one-handed or high-stress combat load is needed, but with the plastic-buttplate on the MK IV mag it will bounce of the concrete a lot and eventually crack unless you put a hand underneath or tilt the gun sideways and catch the mag in your palm.

The grips are a bit thin for such a nose-heavy pistol. These guns should come with thumbrest grips with an off-side palmswell like the slab-sides target Ruger MK IV’s do. I ordered a set of walnut thumbrest grips from E. Arthur Brown for 50 bucks, once these are on I think it should be a lot easier to hold and shoot...especially for a long string of multiple magazines or a slow-cadence mag full.

Since this was the first time the gun was fired I should have done a better initial cleaning and lubing before bringing it out. I didn’t, and the result was several failures-to-extract in the first 150 rounds. I have numerous bricks of the Armscor rounds so I chose this just to burn through some, I’ve found it pretty reliable and accurate enough. I’ll try others next time to be sure it wasn’t just the rounds causing issues. This situation pretty much rectified itself by around the 175-round mark, and the 50 I fired for record at the end went bang every time. This showed to me why all guns need to be cleaned and properly lubed when fresh out of the box, and I think this really was more my fault rather than the guns’.

The bad:
I found nothing truly bad. The trigger teetered on fair/bad because it was a bit gritty as well as a tad heavy, but I’m spoiled with the fantastic triggers on my other Rugers so I’m a bit picky there. If you’re not shooting a trigger pull heavier than you’re used to on similar guns it may not bother you like it did me. That being said, the pull weight wasn’t as bad as many other guns I’ve shot so I’ll rate it as fair with the hope the grit goes away with more use.

All in all, it was a good day. I’ll never, ever place at Camp Perry that’s for sure, but I’m looking forward to ringing in a new .22 dueling tree I’m having made and also my rimfire silhouettes when the heat dies down in the fall and I can head our to the desert again.

The MK IV 10” is a bit more of a specialty pistol rather than a do-all trainer/hunter/kit gun/plinker like my smaller MK II and Standards are, but it really is a hoot to break out at the range and shoot.

Stay safe.
 

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Thanks for the reminder, I missed that part. The MK IV comes drilled and tapped from the factory. I don’t intend to scope or dot it (today anyway) so that was one thing I overlooked. For those who do want to add an optic the factory drilling is a nice touch.

Stay safe.
 
I've got a MK IV 10" in stainless, and I'd like to shoot the blued and the stainless side by side sometime. The stainless is all stainless, while I believe the blued version is not a steel lower. I'm curious if the steel 10" upper makes for a nose heavy feel or not. The stainless seems to balance nicely. Any input, Riomouse911?
 
I've got a MK IV 10" in stainless, and I'd like to shoot the blued and the stainless side by side sometime. The stainless is all stainless, while I believe the blued version is not a steel lower. I'm curious if the steel 10" upper makes for a nose heavy feel or not. The stainless seems to balance nicely. Any input, Riomouse911?

Ruger lowers are all steel...unless it's a 22/45 version.
 
I've got a MK IV 10" in stainless, and I'd like to shoot the blued and the stainless side by side sometime. The stainless is all stainless, while I believe the blued version is not a steel lower. I'm curious if the steel 10" upper makes for a nose heavy feel or not. The stainless seems to balance nicely. Any input, Riomouse911?
If it’s all-steel it doesn’t really feel like it. I think it’s a very light aluminum alloy because when tapped with a fingernail it doesn’t sound like the receivers on my MK II or Standard when I have them apart, and it is very lightweight when held without the upper attached.

If it was a bit heavier in the grip it may balance better to reduce some of the nose-heaviness... or it could make it even tougher to hold out there over a long string instead, who knows :)

Stay safe.
 
My prior post was probably poorly worded, but I guess that's what I was getting at. I have the stainless 10", which is all stainless. and was curious by comparison if the aluminum lower on the blued 10" felt nose heavy.
 
Ruger lowers are all steel...unless it's a 22/45 version.
The blued version of the Mk. IV (not the .22/45) has a machined aluminum lower. This is a departure from the Mk. I, II, and III, which have stamped-and-welded steel lowers. This is particularly noticeable when installing a Clark or other aftermarket trigger with a squared-off shank. The front of the trigger opening on the Mk. IV lower is rounded. This has to be squared off with a needle file for the aftermarket trigger to fit.
Upon release, the magazine launches from the grip like a torpedo from the bow of a submarine.
That's an easy fix. Just remove the little "kicker," plunger, and spring that are under the bottom of the right grip. These parts were added to the Mk. IV because the "improved" magazine safety sometimes makes the magazines a bit sticky. Most people that want a lighter trigger pull end up removing the magazine safety anyway.
 
Another nice feature that Ruger added to the Mark IV is the ability to accept other ruger Mark IV uppers. I received two of the close out Mark IV blued 5½ Bull Barrel uppers that Volquartsen had on sale for $25.00 each and $15.00 shipping:
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Both fit right on perfectly with my Mark IV Competition Target grip frame. That speaks loads concerning the "tight machining tolerances" that Ruger adheres to on the production of these Mark IV pistols.
Maybe that suitcase box compensates for Ruger not providing an optics base as they did for the late run of Mark II and all of the Mark III pistols. This is the first version Mark drilled and tapped at the factory for which no base was provided. BTW, the Ruger Mark III magazines will easily fit into and function with the Ruger Mark IV frame pistols, but not, of course, in the Mark IV 22/45 versions with that style grip frame.

Seems many of the "Boomers", like myself, are becoming front sight challenged with age and having their Ruger Mark I, Standard and early Mark II versions drilled and tapped for an optics base. When done in the same manner, and hole spacing, as that of the factory method, this is an enhancement that adds value rather than detract like some of the more "unusual" spacing that I've seen done by others:
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The blued version of the Mk. IV (not the .22/45) has a machined aluminum lower. This is a departure from the Mk. I, II, and III, which have stamped-and-welded steel lowers. This is particularly noticeable when installing a Clark or other aftermarket trigger with a squared-off shank. The front of the trigger opening on the Mk. IV lower is rounded. This has to be squared off with a needle file for the aftermarket trigger to fit.

That's an easy fix. Just remove the little "kicker," plunger, and spring that are under the bottom of the right grip. These parts were added to the Mk. IV because the "improved" magazine safety sometimes makes the magazines a bit sticky. Most people that want a lighter trigger pull end up removing the magazine safety anyway.

Another (better) method is to modify the front end of the aftermarket trigger a bit to accommodate that radius in the grip frame. It's always a good practice to modify the least expensive part rather than a more expensive grip frame, for the simple reason that if the pistol were to ever be put back to "as factory", the factory trigger can go in and all will look as normal once again.
Clark Custom quit selling triggers as a separate part quite a while ago and now only use those nice triggers when Ruger Mark pistols are sent to them for "trigger jobs". I like those "steel triggers" and wish they were still avaialbe as a purchased part.
 
Another good point brought up above concerns the "magazines ejector assist" that's now used in the Ruger Mark IV pistols. That part is "injection molded plastic" and when it gets kicked out of the mold, it's still a bit pliable until the plastic hardens up. This causes that part to be a bit distorted at the top, bottom, or even both ends as it sticks in the mold a bit while being ejected. the distortion at the top of the part will sometimes not allow full magazine insertion into the grip frame and cause magazines to drop out half-way through a mag-dump. Or, the plastic ejector assist will be a bit distorted on the bottom and not allow complete insertion of the magazine:

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So, if this is a part an owner would like to retain, some specific areas of distortion may need to be addressed with judicious use of a smooth-cut file. Another option is to purchase a machined metal, replacement part, from Majestic Arms. Those work really well to do things as they are intended to be done.
 
I got the new walnut grips today, they were made by Majestic Arms.
The thumbrest isn’t quite as pronounced as the Ruger-branded ones on my MK II, but they’re worlds better in my hand than the saltine-cracker thick original grip panels were.

The screws need a T10 Torx screwdriver your remove. I like that, makes it easy to undo and harder to bugger up.

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Kinda looks a bit more Luger-y with the checkered walnut grips sans the Ruger logo.

Here is the upper showing the screw holes as they came from Ruger

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A little dark, sorry about the lighting.

Stay safe.
 
You can get aftermarket filler screws to plug those holes. Get the kind that are slightly mushroomed so they don't go below the surface of the receiver.

Also, get several extras (they're cheap) so that you can use trial and error to line up the screw slots.
 
They are filled with hex screws, another nice touch. :thumbup:
Other than the aluminum grip frame on the blued model I’m liking this as much as my MK II.

Stay safe.
 
As far as a Mk IV goes Ruger could've done better in the factory trigger dept for sure. I would suggest to you to get your hands on a Volquartsen trigger and install it. Makes all the difference when it comes to accuracy, trust me.
Most of the problem in the Ruger factory trigger pull is not in the trigger itself, but in the sear/hammer interface. Start by replacing the Ruger sear with a Volquartsen sear (available from them as a separate part). Then replace the hammer. I prefer the Ruger Mark II hammer to the Volquartsen hammer. The latter is skeletonized, which according to Volquartsen reduces lock time, but I believe the lighter weight means less reliable ignition. It goes without saying that at the same time, you should get rid of all the magazine-disconnect parts.

The stock Ruger trigger has a nub on the back side that has the function of raising the magazine, it it is not positively seated. This nub interfacing with the magazine could have the unwanted effect of increasing the trigger pull weight (but not consistently). You could file the nub off, but I would prefer substituting a Clark steel trigger (which I understand is no longer available from Clark). But as I said, replacing the trigger is secondary to working on the sear engagement.
 
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