Flat point bullets reduce ricochets off AR targets?

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NMexJim

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While using round nose plated 9mm reloads on steel targets at my range, I had one rebound and smack me in the forearm. That sucker took its own good time in healing an ugly-looking little wound.

I changed over to flat point bullets thinking that I'd get fewer ricochets, and so far that seems to be true.

I've really come to like hollow-point, plated bullets when I can get them. But, I find far more flat points available.

Any thoughts on flat point, plated bullets reducing ricochets?

I will say too that there was a learning curve for me on bullet seating depth with a flat point and that COAL for one manufacturer does not mean it's the same for another. Au contraire. I'd recommend using a gauge rather than a caliper.
 
The shape of the bullet will do nothing to reduce ricochets. You must angle your plate so the bullet is deflected down into the ground in front of the target or off to the side into a small berm or side hill. Remember - angle of incidence equals angle of reflection - just like a pool table. Also remember that if a steel plate becomes cratered it is dangerous. I have seen bullets impact a crater and turn themselves inside out and return to the gun that launched it. When lead hits steel at that speed the bullet becomes liquid for a fraction of a second. When shooting steel EVERYONE in the area must wear eye protection - no exceptions.
 
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In addition to angling the target down, I would also try to hang the target if possible so it moves a bit when hit and absorbs more of the energy off the bullet. Mine are hung from a chain off the back of the target so they angle down 5 or 10 degrees. There is a lot of lead/copper spray to the sides, but little nothing bouncing back. I still wear eye protection.

If you have a true AR500 steel target It should take a lot of abuse without cratering. Most of mine are 1/2" thick so maybe that helps.
 
1/2" is great especially if you're going to be slamming them with on onslaught of rifle cartridges but 3/8" has a much more satisfying ring for shot recognition, etc.... I used to just hang railroad tie plates of varying thickness, I never really had any issues with them but I'm slowly transitioning to AR500. I have 3 hanging Gongs with the chain/carriage bolt arrangement, 6/6" flat base knockdown silhouettes and 1/33% IPSC angled Silhouette with the 2×4 bracket carriage bolt/spring arrangement. I still hang a few railroad tie plates from my sawhorse frame by chains and they work well.

Never gave flat point vs round ball a thought, now that I have I dont think it makes a tinkers damn difference. There is always a chance you could catch a frag when shooting plates, I have and I know its because I was shooting closer than i should have been. Appropriate distance is key.
 
There were Pepper Poppers at last night's indoor USPSA, not a common target there.
I have a very flat piece of coated lead that rebounded and landed at my feet while I was shooting at them.
I picked up another very flat piece of lead with clinging copper plate.
I got peppered by a couple of small fragments through the evening.

I have been hit harder in the past, just part of the fun. Be sure to wear eye protection.
 
We have the 1/2" AR500 hanging from an old swingset , have seen small pieces come back a few times , but nothing major.
 
As the guys said, keep the plates angled down, try to mount them so they have some swing and scrap them once they get cratered and you’ll be a-ok. :thumbup:

Stay safe.
 
A lot of people back behind the line won't be wearing eye protection and I have seen bullets go back there and hit folks. Regarding allowing some swing - I stood next to a guy shooting a .44 Spl. S&W revolver and placing a round on a heavy plate that was swinging back towards him from about 20 yards back. The timing was perfect - the plate batted the bullet straight back to his gun's barrel which was lifted in recoil and the bullet went under his gun and hit him right between the eyes. Dropped him on the spot. If I had not seen it I would not have believed it. Amazingly he survived. But to this day I will never shoot at or be around other people swinging at swinging plates. My steel is angled to the ground and solidly fixed and does not move. I strongly advise everyone to wait for plates to stop swinging before you shoot them again because you have no idea where the steel may send that bullet.
 
Had someone shooting 7.62 surplus ~150gr bounce back hard enough to smash a chunk of the handguard on my DPMS carbine years ago. Just missed my hands. Left a doozy of a scratch n ding on the barrel.
 
Angle, angle, angle. I shoot steel all the time and being properly angled and shot at safe distances, I have yet to be peppered. I HAVE been hit by bounce back at an indoor range twice, once from a bowling pin that caught me right in the twins. Funny now, not so much then.
 
I shoot occasionally at a friends lake house. We set the targets near the lake as it’s the lowest spot on the property and the area’s hilly so don’t really have to worry about a back stop other than the hills. With the targets hanging about 20 feet away from the water you can see LOTS of splatter with each shot raining down lead creating ripples in the water. Bullet really fragment and send debris flying.
 
... never shoot at or be around other people swinging at swinging plates. My steel is angled to the ground and solidly fixed and does not move. I strongly advise everyone to wait for plates to stop swinging before you shoot them again because you have no idea where the steel may send that bullet.
+1
only time I've been peppered was by guys doing short range mag dumps on swinging steel targets...
 
As well said in the previous posts.

How close to the steel were you? What shape is the steel in?

Does the plate have damage? Trash it and buy a nice new flat one of the appropriate thickness for what you are shooting.
 
No advice here, but a question: I understand the importance of angling, but if the target is free-hanging, like from a couple of short chains, (a) how important is it to angle it, and (b) how do you do it? Any free-hanging plate is going to be 90° to the ground, isn't it? Might sound like a dumb question, but I'm really looking for an answer because I'm in the process of setting up a portable steel target rig.
 
No advice here, but a question: I understand the importance of angling, but if the target is free-hanging, like from a couple of short chains, (a) how important is it to angle it, and (b) how do you do it? Any free-hanging plate is going to be 90° to the ground, isn't it? Might sound like a dumb question, but I'm really looking for an answer because I'm in the process of setting up a portable steel target rig.

a.) very important imho. bullets can explode when they hit and send spall and fragments and bigger pieces in every direction. you want it to go in one safe area and downward is best. if it swings its still aimed downward unless it gets up way to high but I haven't seen that happen on a proper angled downward one yet. guess it could though.....that leads to this....... distance is hugely important as well...also right thickness for what your shooting caliber wise.

b.) by using longer bolts and more nuts between plate and chain to allow it to hang offset and at the proper angle. there is faqs out there and with pics describing it better than I can type here.
 
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a.) very important imho. bullets can explode when they hit and send spall and fragments and bigger pieces in every direction. you want it to go in one safe area and downward is best. if it swings its still aimed downward unless it gets up way to high but I haven't seen that happen on a proper angled downward one yet. guess it could though.....that leads to this....... distance is hugely important as well...also right thickness for what your shooting caliber wise.

b.) by using longer bolts and more nuts between plate and chain to allow it to hang offset and at the proper angle. there is faqs out there and with pics describing it better than I can type here.
No, I think I've got your meaning, and it makes sense. Thanks!
 
I appreciate all the answers. I agree that any bullet shape, with possibly the exception of hollow points, can ricochet. My experience with plated hollow points has been very good, and I use them exclusively now.

We have many AR plate targets at our club, and they are all angled and are mounted with chains with the exception of dueling posts. However, some are indeed shot all to, er, heck, and are dented and rough. The distance when I was hit was between 15' and 25', so that indeed could have been a factor. I now wear a long sleeve shirt as well as eye and ear pro.
 
I got pegged once by a part of the bullet’s jacket. The base of the jacket, with no lead attached, turned into a frisbee (or a little ninja throwing star) and came back 50 yards, sticking into my neck and drawing blood. The guy who shot it was about 8 lanes to the left. Odd, but it happens.

I have seen the same happen on the EOD range...frag becomes aerodynamic and flies much farther than expected.
 
A lot of people back behind the line won't be wearing eye protection and I have seen bullets go back there and hit folks. Regarding allowing some swing - I stood next to a guy shooting a .44 Spl. S&W revolver and placing a round on a heavy plate that was swinging back towards him from about 20 yards back. The timing was perfect - the plate batted the bullet straight back to his gun's barrel which was lifted in recoil and the bullet went under his gun and hit him right between the eyes. Dropped him on the spot. If I had not seen it I would not have believed it. Amazingly he survived. But to this day I will never shoot at or be around other people swinging at swinging plates. My steel is angled to the ground and solidly fixed and does not move. I strongly advise everyone to wait for plates to stop swinging before you shoot them again because you have no idea where the steel may send that bullet.
What? I never go around any shooting and not wear glasses. We only get two. And I value my eye sight. Its a peta sometimes to wear them. Worth it if it saves my eyes.
 
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On a perfectly flat plate the splatter around the impact comes off about 15-20 degrees in all directions. Things change drastically when there are any slight dents, or when surrounding the steel you have structure of any type. Concrete walls, especially smooth or painted ones can carry ricocheted pieces directly at you.

If you're shooting on well used plates, and really even if you're shooting on brand new, mentally plan on getting hit. It's bound to happen. If you shoot on truly blown out plates, the pieces and size of the ricochet can really increase, to the point that you can be getting smacked with a very large chunk of lead or jacket.
 
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