Floating the tang..

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Jan 9, 2013
Eastern NC
I just built this rifle and am concerned about the tang binding with the stock. Is is possible to use cardboard to space up the action such that the tang doesn't bind? Also, can you give me some insight on how to correct this in a more permanent fashion. I'm assuming bedding the action would be the permanent solution but wouldn't the rear pillar need to be raised to float the tang prior to bedding?

Pics before:

Pics after: (with cardboard spacer)

Take the shim out and finish inletting the stock around the tang?

You have to have some clearance at the rear of the tang or it will eventually crack the stock.

If the tang makes contact with the wood at the same time the action contacts the pillar fully , i don't see a problem. Before pillars were used, the tang always made contact with the wood. Over time the tang would compress a walnut stock. To stop this, i would drill 3 blind holes into the wood and put a drop of Acraglas in each and put the action back into the stock. A tiny bit of lube on the metal so it didnt glue in.
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Thanks for the suggestions.. I'm new at this to some degree so bear with me.. I don't know how or why I got it in my mind to float the tang, but I took some sandpaper and gently got her floated to the width of a tight business card. I really wanted to see how accurate I can get this rifle before I bed it.. I notched this business card in the pic....

I would guess if there is no action screw pulling down on the tang, it can be floated??
I really wanted to see how accurate I can get this rifle before I bed it..
The recoil lug has to be contacting the stock before you shoot it without bedding?? The pillars are not enough, if its a center fire with any recoil? But i am sure you know this.
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OH , its a Savage

I thought i recognized that safety/tang, but i just could not remember where i seen it before?? After reading the above post (Savage), i went and looked at my Axis and there it was. Getting old i guess. (70) :D
I just built a Savage PTA on a Bobby Hart stock which came with pillars. I pulled them and made my own which were longer. I then inlet the whole action before bedding it. This allowed the barrel and tang to float.
All the time you use now on trying various things that many people has tried before you. could be better spend on the correct full action bedding solution. We all know it works. So the only issue left is the length of the pillars. I personally dont want the direct metal to metal contact because the pillars does not make 100% contact. Unless there is a small bit of bedding material between the pillar and action. The bedding is stiff and tough enough to be in between so that you can apply the same torque every time you take the gun apart. Also the bedding does not change in temperature shifts.
I suggest you remove some material and bed the whole action. Remove enough that the only part the action and barrel touch is the pillars. A single layer of tape on the tang will leave it floated. I think someone already mentioned this but with bedding compound you want the recoil lug to make even contact, the action to be fully supported and the tang to be floated such that the action recoils evenly straight back into the stock. If you did not replace the recoil lug during your build, it might be worth it to do so before you bed the action.
Thanks... I replaced the recoil lug during the build. I'm a little nervous about the whole bedding process at this point and am waiting to practice on another rifle before I jump on this rifle. I have been shooting the rifle as is and it shoots decent at 1/2 to 3/4 moa right now... Whenever I stretch the rifle out to 400-600 yards that group opens up. Honestly, I think I need to work on my technique and gets some trigger time behind this rifle or any rifle for that matter because I simply don't feel like I'm doing the same thing each time I pull the trigger. I've been researching this and actually plan on taking a 2 day class the first part of next year. I want to make sure I'm doing my part first if you know what I mean... Thanks again...
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