Gun Paint
- Thread starter 07AMF
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browningguy
Member
I have used Krylon Fusion Camo paint on several rifle, it holds up reasonably well and touch up is easy if it does get scratched.
chevyforlife21
Member
de grease it. then rustoleum works awesome,but first you should try to sand off the old finish too.
RevolvingGarbage
Member
I used some 500 degree engine enamel on my Pardner pump, and it came out great.
i think the brand was Rustoleum, cant remember exactly, but i got it from auto zone
i think the brand was Rustoleum, cant remember exactly, but i got it from auto zone
hadmanysons
Member
I used the Krylon Ultra Flat Camo stuff, available at walmart. Here is my post about my experience painting my rifle, should get you going
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=473945
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=473945
Spray paints will scratch off fairly easily and may liquify when cleaned with solvents. I wouldn't recommend going that route.
Here are some firearms that I have painted:
http://matuman60.tripod.com/mattmanncustomghilliesuits/id4.html
I estimate that (including sandblasting) it would cost around $90 (plus shipping costs) for me to DuraCoat your shotgun in flat black or any other single color.
Here are some firearms that I have painted:
http://matuman60.tripod.com/mattmanncustomghilliesuits/id4.html
I estimate that (including sandblasting) it would cost around $90 (plus shipping costs) for me to DuraCoat your shotgun in flat black or any other single color.
hadmanysons
Member
That is true. I painted my rifle with the intent of having to A. Touch it up and B. Do it cheaply. Duracoat is the way to go if you're looking for a more permanent solution.
Please don't do it.
I think in the long run you will regret it
. Save your money and get it Parkerized or blued. (I like Parkerized) Trust me on this one. Painting is short term at best.(VERY short term)
But, if you have to paint use Duracoat.......But, if you can afford that then just get it Park'd.
Al
I think in the long run you will regret it
. Save your money and get it Parkerized or blued. (I like Parkerized) Trust me on this one. Painting is short term at best.(VERY short term)But, if you have to paint use Duracoat.......But, if you can afford that then just get it Park'd.
Al
Some "hardware store" type paints may last quite well depending on your preparation and how you use the firearm. However, for the amount of prep that you'll put into it for a rattle can spray paint job, it would be worth it to have it professionally refinished.
Some types of so called firearms finish are just re-packaged industrial paint so use caution with what you choose. If applied to internals, they can gum up the action and cause a lot of problems. Krylon, VHS, Rustoleum, duracoat, etc. will all cause issues if applied to close tolerance internals. Keep yer powder dry, Mac.
Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
Mac's Shootin' irons
http://www.shootiniron.com
Some types of so called firearms finish are just re-packaged industrial paint so use caution with what you choose. If applied to internals, they can gum up the action and cause a lot of problems. Krylon, VHS, Rustoleum, duracoat, etc. will all cause issues if applied to close tolerance internals. Keep yer powder dry, Mac.
Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
Mac's Shootin' irons
http://www.shootiniron.com
chevyforlife21
Member
buy truck bed liner. or p.o.r,or engine enamel as all of these are designed for tough use.
GeorgeR
Member
Gun Kote
KG Gun Kote is great stuff. It's a thin hard coat and won't look like a paint job (Duracoat is made by Sherwin Williams) but remember Gun Kote has to be oven cured and DuraCoat is air cured.
KG Gun Kote is great stuff. It's a thin hard coat and won't look like a paint job (Duracoat is made by Sherwin Williams) but remember Gun Kote has to be oven cured and DuraCoat is air cured.
crossrhodes
Member
Coating
I do a lot of Dura, Gunkote and Ceracoat on many types of firearms and engine parts. I can tell you that each one has it's strenghts and weakness. If you doing it as a one time project then Dura coat is most likely the best. You have to make sure you follow the directions and don't take any short cuts or it will look like you took a short cut. Blast with 120 aluminum oxide only, spray in light coats and let cure the proper time. I have the ovens and all the other equipment so do a lot of Gunkote and gear coat and recommend that for any firearm that is going to be subject to lots of heat i.e AR15's, M4's and any other stuff the PD's and State Police throw at me from time to time.
Have fun with it, take your time, send us some pics when your done, or you could send it to the gentleman who made the offer for $90.00...thats a good price and that's what I would charge too.
Semper Fi
Guns - out
I do a lot of Dura, Gunkote and Ceracoat on many types of firearms and engine parts. I can tell you that each one has it's strenghts and weakness. If you doing it as a one time project then Dura coat is most likely the best. You have to make sure you follow the directions and don't take any short cuts or it will look like you took a short cut. Blast with 120 aluminum oxide only, spray in light coats and let cure the proper time. I have the ovens and all the other equipment so do a lot of Gunkote and gear coat and recommend that for any firearm that is going to be subject to lots of heat i.e AR15's, M4's and any other stuff the PD's and State Police throw at me from time to time.
Have fun with it, take your time, send us some pics when your done, or you could send it to the gentleman who made the offer for $90.00...thats a good price and that's what I would charge too.
Semper Fi
Guns - out
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