Gun Safe dilemma

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ShotgunSD2099

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The garage is the only place I can store and secure the safe that I purchase.

The only access to the garage is through the house as well as the metal garage door itself.

What kind of setup can I create in the garage around the safe to give as little access to anything but the safe door as possible? (As well as concealing its existence from the street.)

Also, when leaving home can further security be given by disengaging the garage door lift to restrict entry through the garage door?

These are just some random thoughts I’m having trying to get everything straight in my head before I make the purchase. I need some assistance in figuring all this out. :eek:
 
maybe you could build some type of wooden cabinet or closet around the safe so that it doesn't exactly look like a safe and it would only allow access to the safe door. i don't even know if this would work of if it would be worth doing??? it might be dumb. anyway, i do know though that you can disengage your garage door when you are away for the house, which will lock the door in place.
 
Can you just build a cinderblock wall around it , like its own little room with a stout steel door on it, that way they have to spend a LOT of time on it.
 
Wine makers are known for very picky and steady conditions (temp range of 10 degrees MAX throughout the year, no temp swings, controlling humidity etc etc). If a wine maker can build a cellar in their garage you can do the same....of course you have to reorganize
here's the thread. Just switch the door with a vault door and enjoy a walkin safe

http://www.winepress.us/forums/index.php?showtopic=11518&st=0



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What do you mean by "disengaging the garage door lift". Seems to me that's the last thing you'd want to do. Perhaps you mean disabling the opener, as in "vacation mode". Unplugging it works even better.

I like the idea of a cinder block room with a steel door to hide the safe... but then why would you need a safe...?
 
Yes, I did mean unplugging the opener as in vacation mode as said above. :banghead: :D

In regards to securing it in the garage, what can I do to protect it from temp changes?
The garage is not temp controlled. What can I place under the safe to separate it from the bare concrete (without exposing the bolts).

BTW I appreciate all the responses. :)
 
a vault door seen from the street.....easiely disguised by louvered closet style sliding doors tracked on the outside.
temp change...you don't say where you live. but Kentucky blue grass under the 'room' would work well-if you live in Kentucky :rolleyes: if you are in a split level or raised ranch, a grill from the room above into the 'room' either passive or fan assisted may be all you need for air/temp control with well insulated outer walls. juice the room for lits & a dehumidifier. free heat if you construct it against the wall the garage shares with the houses living area. i am a split level in central corrupticut...even winter 10 below my garage stayed above 40: summer around 80. good luck & post pic's.
 
I'm in central OK in a one level on a slab. The garage is drywalled.
 
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plug it in

If you want to prevent corrosion you have to either keep all moisture out of the interior or keep its temperature above the dewpoint at all times. You might install a small electrical enclosure heater, something like this. They're usually put in outdoor electrical enclosures to prevent condensation. Something like that ought to work in your safe. You'd have to drill a small hole for the power conductors, but it will keep it toasty in there.

If you can't or don't want to drill a hole through the safe there are electrical heating pads designed to warm engines that can be cemented to the safe exterior. They're made of either silicone rubber or aluminum. Some of them have integral thermostats. Since you need the heat to conduct to the interior of the safe, if yours is fireproof or otherwise insulated internally that idea won't work.

Google "oil pan heater" for some ideas.
 
FWIW, I use a pair of C clamps, one on each track torqued down tight just above a roller to “lock” my folk's garage door.

As for the safe, just put it in a corner and cover the side facing the street with peg board, then hang tools on it. Make the peg board a little wider (deeper) than the safe to hide the door and the dial/handle, depending on the line of site from the street.

Walk in cooler/freezers use a heater strip around the door jamb to prevent condensation from forming in the insulation. In fact all refrigerators have some kind of low power heater in the door (sometimes on a domestic unit you can shut it off with a little “energy saver” switch) This part is called a mullion heater, it's just a thin piece of insulated wire designed to be powered continuously without a thermostat. Any commercial refrigeration supply house should stock a universal mullion heater kit consisting of the wire and some aluminum tape to attach it wherever you want. Just wire nut the heater to a standard 110V power cord and you're done.

EDIT: Actually, on an all metal safe you would probably want to glue some thin wood strips to the inside and attach the heater wire to the wood. Just to guard against a possible electrocution hazard.
 
There's a heater designed to be installed on "standoffs" in safes, engine compartments, etc. and I think it's called a Goldenrod. Low wattage and good track record in this type of service. Use more than one if you have a really big safe. :)
 
If its a good safe, I would just bolt it down and not worry about it. If your really worried about teft, build a ply wood cabinet to conceil it.

IF you build a small room to house it in that is renforced, your going to perk the intrest of a theif.
 
safe

I have a couple in my garage, they are bolted to the floor, and I added a small pressure switch to it with it being attached to a siren/bell outside,if moved even a small amount it goes off, I also alerted the neighbors to please call the constables when they hear the siren/bell, I would be more than happy to pay the trip charge for an accidental tripping of alarm, versus possibility of a theft. It also helps to have four dogs, which have the run of the garage and part of the house where the other safe is.
A safe even a good one, will only keep the units safe so long.
As for humidity, here in arizona its not a big thing, but I do have a golden rod and some cat liter just in case. I also keep all units in the siliconized gun socks.
hey good luck.
rj
 
I am currently designing what will become my walk in safe, I plan to use cinder blocks lined with rebar and filled with concrete for the walls, with a security door on the front.

if you are looking to install a prefab unit, you could set it on a layer of hardwood and insulate the walls around and above it with something fire retardant, then run bolts through the floor and back to secure it in place.

several of us live in central OK, if you want or need any help, or want to go to the range, feel free to drop a line.
 
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