Gunbroker strategies...

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Most of what I'm seeing on gunbroker are new items listed at the exact same prices as local shops and used items at new prices.

I guess you have to be looking for something rare in order for gunbroker to be worth it.
 
Have never sold a gun on GB, only buy. I only started buying a couple of years ago, and don't buy often, but I have made a few observations. I never look at auctions with only a reserve. I don't want to waste my time chasing an unknown reserve amount. I do, however, sometimes look at auctions with both a reserve and BIN. Most times, the BIN price is about twice what the gun is worth, but occasionally the BIN price is reasonable. I always do my research and questions before ever submitting a bid. I know what I want, what condition I want and the current fair market value of what I want. Regarding questions, if a seller will not answer my email (in spite of what they may say on the auction description) OR does not reply with a direct answer to each question, I walk away from the auction. I assume they know something they don't want potential buyers to know. That just aggravates the crap out of me. Just in the past few days, I asked a seller of a used revolver if the lockup and timing were correct. I asked if the rifling was sharp and crisp. I asked if there was any rust or pitting in the charge holes or barrel. I asked if he would accept a C&R (gun was manufactured prior to WWII). His email response was "gun works fine". So what does this say about that particular seller? He has an A+ rating and has sold over 3,000 items on GB. Why would he not answer my questions? If a firearm obviously qualifies as a C&R, and the seller will not accept my C&R, I walk away. I refuse to do business with someone who refuses a legal transaction. I have found that individuals selling a gun are much more responsive and forthcoming with additional details when asked than most FFL businesses are.

I don't care how nice a gun looks, how bad I want it or how cheap the price is when the seller has no idea what he/she is talking about. I was looking at a very nice stainless revolver a while back, the seller described it as having a "chrome" finish. While that is not an impossibility, this gun absolutely did not have a chrome finish. On the flip side, I have seen sellers describing nickel guns as stainless steel. I expect sellers to be at least reasonably informed of the product they are selling. If not, I just skip right on by.

Buying from gun auction sights can be enjoyable and reasonable price wise. Using a bit of caution and common sense are key.
 
Most of what I'm seeing on gunbroker are new items listed at the exact same prices as local shops and used items at new prices.

I guess you have to be looking for something rare in order for gunbroker to be worth it.
Maybe but most the things I look for aren't in my local stores ... no one around here stocks what I'm looking for, most everyone has AR's or Remington, Savages etc ... common stuff you can buy at Walmart.

is it just me, or does there appear to be significant shill bidding in many of these dealers' reserve auctions?
Maybe but I don't think I've experienced it ... the only one I sort of wondered about is one that went into "overtime" then 2 new bidders jumped in and ran it up about $100 over what similar items have been bringing ... then I saw it relisted today with a new BIN price of what the previous winning bid was.

Could have just been someone messing with the seller ... but all the crap you have go through to sign up now (credit card verification etc)

Then again maybe I'm just naive!
 
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My biggest problem with GB is that most people that sell on there have 2013 prices and charge ridiculous shipping prices. I can usually get the gun I want for new and cheaper from other online sites.
 
There are guns I would have never been able to own if I waited around here to find them. So in that respect GB is a good place to look. My last two purchases were revolvers. Both has a starting price of $375, and I was the only bidder. A Colt Police Positive and a S&W 1905, .38-200 (.38 S&W) & .38 Spl, respectively. :)

I got burned on a revolver once, but it was serviceable, just misrepresented. If the dealer doesn't want to make it good, it's hard to force the issue. Only do auctions with great pics. Learn to know what kind of picture angles hide wear and damage. Never do business with a dealer if there is any question. Overall I have had great luck with GB, with dealers that want to honestly represent their guns and make it right if there is an issue. But there are those who aren't so great.
 
Overall I have had great luck with GB, with dealers that want to honestly represent their guns and make it right if there is an issue. But there are those who aren't so great.
That's why I think shoppers need to pay close attention to the feedback. If a seller has some blemishes, I seek out the complaints and see if it is a buyer thing or a consistent seller thing.
 
As a buyer, I give some preference to sellers who take credit cards. If they do, the seller is probably a business, which makes me feel a little safer about the transaction. Nothing is guaranteed of course, but if they take credit cards they probably also have an FFL, which makes part of the transaction easier.

It's also more convenient for me - the payment is there instantly, which is better all involved (the seller can process my order more quickly, and I don't have to worry about mail delays or losses). I also don't have to make a special trip to the post office and spend more money to have they money orders delivered quickly.

Not to say that I won't deal with individuals who want postal money orders, and convenience won't necessarily win out over an exceptionally good deal.
 
^^ Interesting. I find that the best "deals" I have gotten on GB are from private sellers. I wish there was a filter so that I could screen out all the FFLs on a search. Dealers have to cover their overhead; private sellers often are hoping to break even. My experience, any way ...
 
I have only bought, never tried to sell. I’m pretty selective in that I’m usually only interested in older S&W revolvers so I filter for only those less any listings with a reserve or NIB. I start with the one cent auctions. If I find something I’m interested in, I decide what I’m willing to pay and submit my “Maximum” bid. 99 times out of 100 I get out bid. When the auction nears the end, I will decide if I want to bid higher. I also don’t pay much attention to sellers who want payment by MO or CC.

It seems that a lot of guns with a specific price never sell when the exact same gun that started at 0.01 gets bid up higher than the one with the fixed BIN price. I’ve never been able to figure that out, but I’ve seen it happen many times.

I’ve only been burnt once by a scumbag seller who didn’t disclose the miserable mechanical condition that didn’t show in the pictures. Now when I see a listing with minimal description and the comment of “Check out all the pictures for condition”, I walk away.
 
It seems that a lot of guns with a specific price never sell when the exact same gun that started at 0.01 gets bid up higher than the one with the fixed BIN price. I’ve never been able to figure that out, but I’ve seen it happen many times.
Interesting.
I was following several like revolvers to one I recently had up for auction. My auction was a penny start, no reserve. One of the other auctions I was watching was a high staring bid with a reserve, had the same gun, same condition with more original papers and sold for $125 less.
Go figure....

ETA: I did a comparison of view counters on like-to-like auctions. My 6" nickel Python had 1,254 views. Three like auctions with reserve prices had 388 views and 337 views and 308 views. Only one sold. It's selling price was $125 less than mine. Not sure what it means, and I may be wrong, but I believe many potential buyers filter out reserve auctions.

IMHO, the Penny Auction with No Reserve is most effective on popular higher priced guns. My most recent auction was a Colt Python I have owned for several years. I would have been happy with $2,500, tickled with $2,800 and it sold for over $3,000! Wish I had a bunch more, but there are only two, now. :(
 
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