Hammer block for my S&W 617...Dry fire away!!

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Jalopiejoe

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Revised....see new post further down!
I was worried about dry firing my 617 rimfire revolver and aside from using yellow hollow wall anchors to protect the cylinder from peening by the firing pin, I cut a thin piece of firm rubber tubing about 3/16" thick that forms a snug fit in the frame to cushion the hammer before it strikes the firing pin and the frame!
 

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Great idea. As long as you have something there to block the firing pin you are o.k.

I forget where I first learned of your solution but it's a good one and I think it will last longer than the yellow anchors. I go through about a box a month in my 617.
 
Great idea. As long as you have something there to block the firing pin you are o.k.

I forget where I first learned of your solution but it's a good one and I think it will last longer than the yellow anchors. I go through about a box a month in my 617.
Yeah, the yellow anchors take a beating so I was looking for another way to protect the cylinder.
It beat the Hell out of spent cases too!
The rubber is just thick enough with the hole for the firing pin that when the hammer drops it does not move the pin past the blast shield!
 
A piece of pencil eraser can be used to cushion the hammer for dry fire
I can't picture how that would fit?
Placed in the frame in the space below the firing pin and above the transfer bar?
 
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I can't picture how that would fit?
Placed in the frame in the space below the firing pin and above the transfer bar?
No transfer bar in a Smith & Wesson, but there is a hammer block. It drops dow out of the way as you pull the trigger.
Pretty sure I had it right over the firing pin. It's been a while. You have to cut it to the right thickness. Too thick and the hammer will not fall far enough to reset the trigger. The past few years I have used some high density foam rubber that was corner cushions inside the shipping box for a small freezer we got. It cushions the hammer fall enough that the firing pin barely moves. I put it over the firing pin. To test I inserted some 22 brass making sure the dent in the rim was not where it would get hit again. Dry fired A few times and checked for new dents on the brass. There were no new marks. Stuff is tough and a small piece holds up for 30-40 shots, at least
Did you try the piece of rubber you are using without making the hole in it? Seems like an unnecessary step to me.
 
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No transfer bar in a Smith & Wesson, but there is a hammer block. It drops dow out of the way as you pull the trigger.
Pretty sure I had it right over the firing pin. It's been a while. You have to cut it to the right thickness. Too thick and the hammer will not fall far enough to reset the trigger. The past few years I have used some high density foam rubber that was corner cushions inside the shipping box for a small freezer we got. It cushions the hammer fall enough that the firing pin barely moves. I put it over the firing pin. To test I inserted some 22 brass making sure the dent in the rim was not where it would get hit again. Dry fired A few times and checked for new dents on the brass. There were no new marks. Stuff is tough and a small piece holds up for 30-40 shots, at least
Did you try the piece of rubber you are using without making the hole in it? Seems like an unnecessary step to me.
Without the hole in the rubber it still strikes and pushes the pin forward, more than I liked! Now it doesn't move past the blast shield.
 
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