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wam126

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Hi guy's, I'm trying to find a good starting to midrange recipe using 180 plated FP's and HS-6. Lot's of post's about HS-6 but nobody seems to stay on point long or say how many grains their using and wander to something else (other weights and powders) I'm new to handloading and would appreciate some input for this. I'm doing 40 cal. with 180 & 165 plated FP's and 9mm. using 115 FMJ's with 500 plated 124's on the way. Right now I only have HS-6 with some Unique and titegroup on the way. Someone out the must be able to give me a straight answer? Please help, I'm geeting a headache! :banghead:
 
The Hodgdon site has HS-6 listed for 115 grain hollow points with a starting load of 6.7 grains and max of 7.0 but nothing for FMJs.

For your .40, it looks like with 180 grain FP bullets that 6.6 should be your starting load and 7.4 your max.
For the 165 grainers, start at 7.4 and max is 8.1.

That's all from the Hodgdon site.

http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp

Also, just a word to the wise here, never take the advice of people on the internet without researching it and making sure it's legit. You have a controlled explosion going off IN your hand. Misinformation can lead to a destroyed firearm, or serious injuries. It pays to double check with published data and make sure someone isn't wrong. Powder manufacturers websites are generally really good sources for data. The only issues you may run into is the bullet not being identical.

Happy loading.
 
Checked Hodgdon online data? Stop at 75 to 80% of jacketed data and you should be OK pressure wise. I don't have any HS-6 so I cannot give any practical advise or proven load for .40. I have been using Longshot and some old Blue Dot for plated 180's in .40 S&W. I am running them at around 950 FPS.

Here is some old plated data:

Welcome to THR
 
Thanks guy's!! I was on the Hodgdon site the other day and printed out 10 pages, but the site is'nt specific about plated bullets. But after reading ur posts and looking at the data I printed out I can see how you got it ie; BERB FP would that be short for berger bullets? Also....I bought some 180gr plated bullets off Gunbroker.com and when they showed up they said XTP on the bag, but they're not like hornady XTP HP's. Miss bagged mabe? :confused:
 
If you are having difficulty locating data specific to a particular bullet, you can contact the manufacture for a recommended starting point, which is what I would recommend from a safety stand point. However, most who reload with plated bullets start some where between lead, and jacketed data for starting charges.

For me, HS6 has performed excellent for the .40 cal using jacketed bullets, but I'm not sure how well it does with plated. I would think OK, providing you don't push them beyond the velocity limits, as per the manufacturer's recommended velocities.

GS
 
Thanks Gamestalker, I have the Richard Lee modern reloading second edition and the Lyman 49th edition. Are there any other manuals that would be worth buying? As of now I only plan on reloading 40 S&W, 9mm Luger, 308 win. and 30.06 springfield.
 
I think you'll do just fine with those manuals as long as you read the how-to sections a few times and understand it all. Most of the other manuals are put out by bullet manufacturers, they're usually more helpful if you're using an oddball bullet like a solid copper/lead free bullet.
 
BERB FP would that be short for berger bullets?
Since Berger does not make handgun bullets that I am aware of, I believe BERB FP stands for Berrys bullets.

Anyone know for sure? I thought I saw this somewhere, but cannot find it.
 
Thanks for the info! it can get overwhelming at times, you read and re-read and read some more and still wind up with questions. some say use lead data some say jacketed data some say use mirange jacketed or midrange between lead and jacketed. Ugh. :scrutiny:
 
wam126 said:
Thanks for the info! it can get overwhelming at times, you read and re-read and read some more and still wind up with questions. some say use lead data some say jacketed data some say use mirange jacketed or midrange between lead and jacketed. Ugh.
Hodgdon recently added 40S&W load data for Berry's plated bullets (BERB) in 155/165/180 gr weights so we longer have to guess - http://data.hodgdon.com/cartridge_load.asp


Berry's MFG website tells us how to load their bullets - http://www.berrysmfg.com/faq-q9-c1-How_do_I_load_Berrys_Preferred_Plated_Bullets.aspx
When loading plated bullets we have found best results using low- to mid-range jacketed data in the load manual. You must use data for a bullet that has the same weight and profile as the one you are loading.
FYI, with Berry's regular plated bullets, they rate them to 1250 fps and I have used lead load data or start-to-mid range jacketed load data with good results.

With Berry's thicker plated (TP) bullets, they rate them to 1450 fps and I have used jacketed load data with good results.
 
180 GR. BERB FP Hodgdon Longshot .400" 1.125" 6.3 1013 26,200 PSI 7.5 1150 33,400 PSI
I have been running a 180 X-Treme at 950 FPS using 6.3 grs of Longshot. Turns out that is a starting load for the Berrys 180 FP. Pleasant to shoot. :)
 
Really appreciate all the help. Does anyone have any input for a recipe for 180plated bullets using HS-6, Unique or titegroup for 40 S&W. I can't seem to match up anything I have for components to what is listed in manuals.
 
Thanks for all the help guy's! found what I needed bds, thanks for the heads up about the Hodgdon site, go figure it would be in general information and not in the specific pick page? live and learn. Ask enough questions and you will sooner or later get the answer you need. :D
 
Ask enough questions and you will sooner or later get the answer you need.

I was already a member here when I first started handloading. Man, I asked some of the most stupid questions you can think of. Everyone here was great. A lot of knowledge here. Soak it up.
 
Amen, to the 2nd half of Arkansas Paul's post #2.

Use of a reloading manual or powder manufacturer's website is about the only RELIABLE information.

Are there any other manuals that would be worth buying?
Depends on what bullets you use.
If you use a lot of any one manufacturer's bullets, then their manual is a must.

Personally, I use a lot of plated or lead bullets, so the Hornady, Speer, Sierra, Nosler etc manuals are worthless to me.
Sounds like you have my 2 favs (Lyman & Lee)

Please stay safe.
 
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