Hangfire Problems

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RugerGuy

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I've got a T/C .54 New Englander that I love but have been having hangfire problems with. I'm using Natural Lube 1000 and cleaning with Hot water and T/C cleaning solution[can't remember name of it]. The passageway from the nipple to the charge I may not be cleaning correctly. What do you people do to keep this small passageway clear from build-up?? Thanks !!
 
What are you using for powder? Always a good idea to fire a cap after cleaning to clear out the excess oil and anything blocking the nipple.
 
It might be the nipple

If you are using the nipple that came with the rifle you might try an upgrade. I have replaced most of the factory nipples in my half dozen side locks and got a decidedly better cone of fire to the powder charge. There are several brands out there. One that I've used has a product name of Spitfire Magnum. They don't cost much but worth the money. Dixie had them for $3.95 in recent years. You do have to know the thread count on your nipple, although it shouldn't be hard to match by maker.
 
I'm not very familiar with the TC patent breech design, but with some patent breeches I use a thin piece of wire and insert it into the flash hole from the nipple end. The flash hole channels often have 1/2 of a corkscrew or spiral shape to them, and I'll bend the wire a little at a time until they will fit all of the way in to the powder chamber in the breech. I don't know if TC's are as easy to access for cleaning with a wire as others are or not.
I do know that TC rifles used to have a tiny clean out screw that they stopped building into their later production rifles because they were too small to be very useful for cleaning and they often were allowed to rust shut by the owners. So TC eliminated them altogether.

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This picture shows some different breechplug scrapers. I think that the one in the middle is made by TC, I'm not sure about the one on the right. Using a breech plug scraper of the right dimensions for the TC breechplug will help to scrap out more of the residue that can eventually block or partially impede the cap ignition, which flushing with soapy water alone may not remove. Try to determine the size of the powder chamber at the bottom of the barrel and scrap it out after each shooting session to eliminate some of the residue build up and which may be helpful.
Between using the wire, the breechplug scraper and the flushing by forceful plunging with water, you should be able to keep the flash hole open to help insure better ignition.
There's a couple of other tricks too, including using the fffg finer powder granulation to see if that helps, and to remove the spent cap before loading and ramming the next load to help the air & powder flow into a drum or patent breech better when rammed. Pyrodex and other subs are said to require a higher ignition temperature than real black powder which is more explosive and reliable. FFFg or Pyrodex P usually burns cleaner and produces less fouling.
Sometimes a new Hotshot or similar aftermarket replacement nipple helps too.
The TC #13 cleaning solution isn't all that effective if that's the one that you're using. Maybe you can try another like Hoppe's #9 PLUS BP Solvent & Patch Lube or Rusty Duck Black Off BP Solvent (at some Walmarts). There's plenty of other good ones too.
 

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The TC Hawkens that I have, has the small screw that can be removed to clean the area you speak of. I use a pipe cleaner to reach up in the hole while cleaning.

The next time out, load fifty grains of powder and pack a couple of dry patches and shoot it first, this will clean any oil out of this hard to reach area and the barrel. This will stop your first shot from being a hangfire, very important when hunting with a side hammer.
 
Thanks for the answers so far everybody. I'm using musket caps and Natural Lube 1000 so there's no oil build up. I do fire off 5-6 caps before loading up to clean out any moisture or excess bore butter before I dump any Pyrodex charges in there. My rifle unfortunately doesn't have a clean out screw but the wire method looks like it might work. T/C #13 is the stuff I'm using and I'll look into another brand of that as well. Thanks again for all the ideas and help and I'll let you know how it works when I try it next.
 
Mike 56, that is pretty much how I clean it now except for the last step where I use Natural Lube 1000 instead of oil. I even use NL 1000 around the nipple and end of barrel to prevent rust.
 
Clean Nipple.

Hey there. I used the same rifle for a few years. That nipple that came on the gun is junk. You need a better on. The primer pocket cleaning brush from RCBS should get in there. It did on mine. A wire works to clean the nipples flash hole. I found that firing primers thru it would foul it also. I always used the wire. Some torch tip cleaners ( the little round file like guy's) used for cleaning cutting torches tips will also work. If you get the finner ones.
My load was 80 grains of "P" and she would group very well at 80 yards with a patched round ball. I tried every lead and saboted bullet and never could get them to shoot in that gun. The round ball was accurate. I also tried the fancy pistol primer thing. JUNK. No accuracy and will were on those threads.
Lube 1000 is all I will use on my guns and they never rust. 1 cap before I load and go hunting. I also smeared the 1000 on the cap and never had a wet cap again. Never had a miss fire again. Swab that barrel between shots. I loned mine out and it came back with a swelled barrel. They did not seat the ball far enough down and it didn't take to that very well.:barf:
 
a starightened paperclip or pipe cleaner. Had same problem years ago. Popping 3 caps prior to loading seems to work for me now, and I never get misfires. knock on wood.
 
I was going to try out the suggestions everyone gave me today when I went shooting. Unfortunately I got called into work but will give it another shot in a few weeks next time I go out.
 
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