Help... bought Magpul PRS stock but need to change buffer tube?

Status
Not open for further replies.

DefiantDad

Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2012
Messages
499
Hello! That .45 v .223 thread sure was interesting, but now I have a more mundane and pressing issue.

Like a "newdiot" I went ahead and bought that Magpul PRS stock for my AR. The stock has adjustment for cheek weld, which is what I found was lacking in my last time at the range; my eye level with the various sights was not optimal (a couple of different scopes, and a red dot).

So anyway, turns out I need to swap the buffer tube. My AR currently has the Magpul MOE stock, collapsible, with the buffer tube that has the number markings and a notched rail on the bottom. Apparently I need another tube with no notches.

I don't want to just take this to my LGS gunsmith and have him do it for me. The whole point is that I want to learn about my AR and this does not seem to be overly complicated (or is it?). Seems I need a wrench tool of some kind to remove the buffer tube and put on a new one?

Also, I don't know what new buffer tube I need to get.

I tried searching for video tutorials, etc. but found nothing. They only show how to change the MOE stock to a CTR stock, which is basically the same thing, and one guy who supposedly was showing how to change the buffer tube ended up showing nothing except talking about some cheap tool he bought off eBay. So, no help there.

Your advice appreciated. Thanks.
 
Look for an A2 buffer tube. Any M4 stock wrench should work, almost all that I've seen have a cutout in them that fits the nub on an A2 stock as well. Just take off the castle nut on the current tube and unscrew it, then put the A2 tube on. Oh, you'll need a rifle buffer too. You can buy kits that come with the tube, buffer, and spring, though.
 
Thanks. ALso LGS guy had mentioned a tungsten buffer? Not sure if that is good/appropriate for my purposes here?
 
Don't forget about the end-plate behind the Castle nut/buffer tube.

The moment you losen the castle nut and the end plate separates from the lower receiver . . . . . you have the takedown detent spring and takedown detent potentially escaping and going flying through the room. :what:

Make sure you have a method to keep these niggly two little items from taking off.

Also, when you tighten up the replacement buffer tube and castle nut, it is imperative to ensure that the takedown detent spring does not get folded/bent in the process.

Just sayin . . . . . . . . ..
 
Hmmm, starting to seem complicated. Dang.

I should have a vice for this right? To hold the Lower receiver?

What's the wrench type tool I should use to unscrew everything? Is there a high quality one I should just get for lifetime use instead of some cheap eBay thing?

I need to Google around for more diagrams before I attempt this.

I can use my existing buffer spring right? Just get the replacement buffer tube and the wrench tool?
 
Thanks Jim, video looks good but it says it's for the A2. Will that be OK? I have the flattop with the rail, no carry handle. I assume everything else is the same except for that?
 
I like it. It's very solid, and I like the adjustments. The weight also balances out my rifle nicely.
 
I like it. It's very solid, and I like the adjustments. The weight also balances out my rifle nicely.
Good to know. I am going to learn more about AR disassembly first and then do this conversion. The buffer tube seems to be sold out though.
 
Don't stress it too much, they're not really that hard. I personally have had springs and detent pins, and various small metal pieces fly all over my house. It's kind of a rite of passage. Buffer tube swap is pretty straight forward though.
 
Don't stress it too much, they're not really that hard. I personally have had springs and detent pins, and various small metal pieces fly all over my house. It's kind of a rite of passage. Buffer tube swap is pretty straight forward though.
Ya that is what I thought, so I reckon it could be my first little foray into learning how to gradually smith my AR. :)
 
Hah, I guess I bought the last one. The one I got was labeled a brownells part though. So I assume brownells would have it.
 
this is why I always tap and put a small set screw into the rear takedown detent hole. makes future stock changes easy.

and when I build lowers for others and they decide to change their stocks, I don't get a call asking if I have any spare springs and detents
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top