Help Loading 38 Lead

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Scooter72

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Hi, I am new to reloading lead. Today I picked up a 500pc box of Meister Lead Bullets, .38 cal. (.357") 158grain SWC. I loaded a couple rounds with Winchester brass and 3.0 grains of Bullseye. When I finished the first round it looked "buldgy" at the top of the case. I tried to drop the round into the cylinder of my revolver and it wouldn't fit. I adjusted my crimp slightly and it only fit slightly better. Still tight and wouldn't drop in. I loaded a second round and it was slightly better again but will not go in without pushing it in and I don't wanna do that. Now I need help. What to do?? I am afraid of putting too much crimp. It's already past what I crimp .357 Magnum. I am guessing you only need a little crimp with .38's. Please help.
 
Bullseye doesn't need a major crimp so try backing off a little more and see if it helps. Are you seating and crimping on the same stroke? If so, try backing off the seating depth just a little more so your crimp doesn't bottom out while the bullet is still being pushed down.
 
Odd this one. If bullets sized correctly .357 then, while as usual after case resizing you'll see some ''bulge'' - this should in now way prevent chambering at all.

Certainly for target loads, crimp can be minimal - barely visible but enough to get rid of seating flair.

I'd love to see these examples to inspect and measure. Something is not right somewhere - but so far can't see what you may be doing wrong. Put calipers on a bullet and check for true size.
 
Make sure you are expanding the case and belling the mouth sufficiently to take the bullet. You should be able to start the bullet with a little thumb pressure before putting it into the seating die. Take your seating stroke a little slow, if you try to work too fast you'll sometimes get wrinkeld cases, esp if the bullet isn't perfectly aligned. Make sure the roll crimp is rolled into the rather generous crimp groove in the bullet. This should help eliminate any bulges to your case.

357swc158
 
Are you crimping the rim into the groove? If you mash the edge into the full diameter part it can buckle a little bit, which sounds like what you are getting.
 
Try backing up your bullet seater punch a bit and maybe use less crimp. Think that may solve your problem.
 
Fear not; you'll get past this.

It would be easier to clarify what's happening if you could post a couple of up-close pics of an offending shell.
 
Thank you everyone!!

I got it figured out guys. The problem was I was seating the bullet too deep. I thought it didn't look correct when I first seated the bullet that deep but I was going off the Alliant Powder Manual and I seated the bullet at 1.42". That brings the bullet down to where the top of the case is above the crimping groove. Looked really bad! I adjusted the seating depth to where the top of the case is even with the groove and it measures out to 1.685". Now the round drops nicely into the cylinder of my gun. With this effect the pressure now? My Lyman manual shows a OAL of 1.445".
 
I think you had better check this more carefully right now. The maximum overall length of .38 Special in my 48th Ed. Lyman Manual, p. 333, shows no more than 1.550" At 1.68+" you may be getting close to sticking the bullet nose up against the rifling depending upon the length of the cylinder in your revolver.

What kind of dies are you using? I use the Lee Factory Crimp die and have zero problems chambering rounds. It crimps and post sizes the loaded round. With another brand of dies I was getting bulges in the case if the bullet seating was too deep or the crimp too much.
 
There are others with lots more experience than I have but it seems that the problem might be the Dillon crimp die isn't adjusted just quite right. This is the die I had bulging from in another loader. Probably my fault but they wouldn't pass the case gage test.

Going to the Lee Factory Crimp stopped all that immediately.

I still think you had better watch that overall length--way too long.
 
...you may be getting close to sticking the bullet nose up against the rifling depending upon the length of the cylinder in your revolver....

Can't really do that in a revolver. If the cartridge is too long then either bullet will extend beyond the cylinder face and bind on the face of the forcing cone OR the case will not seat completely and its base will bind on the recoil shield. Either way you know with simple visual inspection if the round will work. I always test an assembled round from a new loading set up in a Colt revolver as their cylinders are shorter and tolerances are much tighter than the S&W. If it fits in a Colt it will work in any S&W.
 
Ok, I left my crip die setting alone and re-crimped the first two round I made. The ones that had the bullet seated to a OAL 1.42". Now they drop right into the cylinder just fine. The rounds don't have the nasty buldge anymore. They just have the top of the casing above the top groove of the bullet. They messure out to be .380" at the crimp. .3765" just about the headstamp. .374 directly in the middle of the case.

I would have no problem taking some pics but I don't know how to post them on here.
 
When you reply to this post go to the bottom of the window and you will see 'Attach Files' Follow the directions. You may have to reduce the size of your pictures. Just click on 'Manage Attachments'
 
Same problem

Scooter, I too was having the same problem. I was using a Dillon 500B trying to load a 148g WC into a 38 case. When I seated the bullet flush with the case mouth, even before I crimped, I had a bulge in the case which failed to chamber. I would take the bullet out of the press before applying the crimp, try to chamber it in my Taurus 651 Snubby, and it would fail to chamber.

After pulling my hair out for several days listening to my friends say "well I have the Lee dies and I don't have a problem" I was ready to give up. Dillon said I was using the wrong seating insert (which I wasn't). Finally I read and read and read all I could find and discovered I was seating a double ended wadcutter which had a crimping cannalure flush to the case mouth when I should have been seating it only to the cannalure. When I did that, for some mysterious reason, the bulge was gone. I then applied my normal crimp and everything appeared to work perfectly. No problems chambering or with accuracy.

Why seating a little deeper bulged the case I don't know. Maybe the sizing die didn't go that far into the case to resize down enough? Maybe the gods thought they'd have some fun with me? Any number of reasons. I seat to the cannalure and I'm happy. Some day I'll purchase a WC without a cannalure, seat it flush, and try to drive myself nuts again, but for now it works.

Since you're crimping on the cannalure I guess it all works for you yes?

Good luck and have fun....
 
Yes, I am now crimping on the cannalure. The OAL is just longer then the Lyman manual says. I hope this isn't a problem.
 
Length is really of no concern in your case as you are shooting 38sp ammo in a .357 and have all sorts of extra length in the chamber
If you were to try this particular ammo in a revolver chambered in 38sp you might not fare so well. Some bullets have the crimping grove placed in a position that just will not work. What I do is load one so my crimp hits the grove and then check that loaded cartridge in all of my guns. Many times the Cartridge will be slightly over the printed max in the loading books but still work fine in all guns normally encountered.
Just another reason why I don't generally give any of my reloads to anyone else or take any from anyone else.
 
Nhsport, OK, thanks for the tip. I am loading 38 specials for my 357 magnum now but I plan on buying a 38 special in the future. I will keep that in mind.
 
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