Help me with the transition from inline to traditional please

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Been shooting inlines for 5 years (pelletized powder, saboted conical bullets, high twist rate rifles), so pretty familiar with the basic ML idea.

Now gonna hit the range this weekend and try one of my new Hawkens with slower twist rate and measured powder. I think the .50 Hawkens are 1 in 48".

So what all do I need to acquire? Lead balls, patches, & powder, but which balls, which patches, and which powder do you recommend? Do I use the lubed patches or can I just use normal patches and slap a little lube on them myself? Do you guys measure your powder charges back at the lab before you go to the range, or do you measure them at the range? What equipment do you use for measurement and such? Anything I really oughtta buy, equipment-wise? How does this Davy Crocket stuff work, anyhow!?! :)
 
If you are shooting a .50 cal, try using a .490 ball and some pillow ticking for patching. A good lube will be needed for the patches.

I use FFFG blackpowder in my Thompson .50 cal Hawken. Start out with around 40 gr and work your way up from there. I rarely shoot more than 70 gr. I think the average charge is about 60-65 gr. But that is what my rifle likes.

The 1 in 48 twist on my rifle shoots both the round ball and conical. I have not noticed any real difference. The ball is less expensive for target shooting and hunting.

Start out shooting from sand bags until your rifle starts to settle down and you begin to figure what it likes.
 
If you are using a patched round ball, one of the best lubes is saliva. Just lay the patch on your tongue while you pour the powder...that will be enough.

The instructions for your rifle should give you a starting point. If not, I would go with a .490 round ball and .010 patch, but have some .015 patches available. I concur with starting around 40 grains, work up to ~75 grains in 5 grain increments. Find out what load shoots most accurately. I personally would use 3Fg, but .50 caliber is right at the break point where you might consider 2F powder.
 
What's pillow ticking? Is that what it says on the package, pillow ticking? I'm needing remedial here. No instructions; rifles bought used.

Thanks for the great info so far!

Since the patch comes up on both sides of the ball, does that mean that a ".015 patch" is actually half that thickness - .008?

Is the bore of these rifles actually .5000?
 
which balls, which patches, and which powder do you recommend?
In general, in a long rifle or single shot pistol, you will shoot a patched round ball that is 0.010" smaller in diameter than the caliber of your gun. That is, 0.440 for .45 cal, 0.490 for .50 cal, etc. It is often possible to use a 0.005" smaller ball as well, if you adjust patch thickness. Shooting patches must be natural fiber such as cotton - absolutely no synthetic fabrics. Thickness can be 0.005, 0.010, 0.015, 0.018 or 0.020 depending on the gun and the depth of the rifling grooves. I recommend starting with 0.010" thick and seeing how it works. I also highly recommend real black powder (Goex, Swiss, KIK, Graf's or Jack's) but Pyrodex, 777 and other synthetics will work as long as you are shooting a percussion, not flint, lock. Use FFg (Pyrodex RS) in a long rifle and FFFg (Pyrodex P) in a pistol (it's possible to safely switch them but you may see a loss in performance).

Do I use the lubed patches or can I just use normal patches and slap a little lube on them myself?
Yes. Either will work. There are proponents of each method that swear it's the best. Try both and see what works best for you.

Do you guys measure your powder charges back at the lab before you go to the range, or do you measure them at the range?
Most do the latter, but more and more people are opting to load speed loaders at home to make their range sessions faster and easier. I perfer to do that myself, but I don't always do it.

What equipment do you use for measurement and such?
An adjustable powder measure with an attached cone that slides in place for pouring, and a copper flask for transportation/storage.

Anything I really oughtta buy, equipment-wise?
Wide open question. If you were well equipped to go inline shooting there's really not much else you'll need. Different caps, of course.

What's pillow ticking? Is that what it says on the package, pillow ticking?
Pillow ticking is a 100% cotton fabric sold at fabric and large retail (Wal-Mart, K-Mart, Target, etc.) stores in the fabric section. It's often cream colored with blue or red stripes. It comes in very large bolts and must be cut to size. Ask for it at the checkout and someone will help you. Buy 1 yard, wash and dry it and cut it up in 1 3/8" wide strips, then place it over the muzzle, start the ball and cut it off flush with the muzzle.

Since the patch comes up on both sides of the ball, does that mean that a ".015 patch" is actually half that thickness - .008?
Nope. A 0.015" thick patch will double to 0.030" when surrounding the ball. However, it will compress and fit when pushed into the bore. The reason the combination is oversize is that the bore caliber is the distance across the lands; the patch must also seal the distance across the grooves, and depending on how deep those are in your rifle a thick patch may be necessary. Or not. It depends on the gun, and we can't predict that even if we know the make and model. It's something you need to work out by testing.

Is the bore of these rifles actually .5000?
No. Every gun varies a bit. And you need to consider the depth of the rifling as well. If fact, I recommend you invest in a set of calipers and measure the bores of your guns. If you have an odd number of lands and grooves you may need to slug the gun to get an accurate measurement.
 
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Pillow ticking can be purchased at your local fabric store for far less money than what you would spend for pre-cut patches. It usually comes in white with blue stripes, or white with red stripes. Get the all cotton type. You can get a yard of the ticking for maybe $3.50- 4.00. Walmart also carries it.

Wash the ticking to get the sizing out. Then cut the ticking into strips about 1 to 1 1/4" wide. Roll the strips up and toss them into your gear. When you need a patch, just cut one. Lube it and load it. You will probably get a couple hundred patches from the yard of ticking.

If you want, you can even cut the ticking into squares at home and put them in your gear. It is really simple. The lube will keep the patches from burning through. My tongue is used for other things, but in a pinch, you can just spit on the patch or put it in your mouth.

One of the reasons I use 3FG powder is because it burns better and does not cling to the back of the patch and cause it to burn through. That way there is no smoldering patch on the ground looking for something to burn.
 
Help me with the transition from inline to traditional please

Dr. Tad, there is one very important item nobody mentioned. You must go through an exorcism/detoxification ceremony to blot from your life record the stain of your involvement with, um..., them "other things".

Anybody in our THR congregation got any ideas how we can assist in the conversion of this most worthy candidate?:D
 
If lubing a patch yourself with Bore Butter, it needs to be absorbed and allowed to saturate the patch a bit.
Body heat will do that if rubbing it in by hand.
Another method is to place a container with some patches and lube in a microwave very briefly to melt the lube.
When it's really cold, the Bore Butter patches can get hard so a liquid lubed patch will load easier. Hoppe's Number 9 Plus Black Powder Solvent and Patch Lube is a liquid. Pure mink oil is another.
I've found that a .015 patch works fairly well in most guns with a .490 round ball.
 
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Help me with the transition from inline to traditional please

Dr. Tad, there is one very important item nobody mentioned. You must go through an exorcism/detoxification ceremony to blot from your life record the stain of your involvement with, um..., them "other things".

Anybody in our THR congregation got any ideas how we can assist in the conversion of this most worthy candidate?

one more thing to watch out for.. if you are making your own patch, dont use too much material, or else your exorcism will involve dancing around spouting ancient ritual sounding renditions while trying to yank the ramrod back out..
If you decide to go Flint lock, "flinters" you may also consider dropping 5 grains of FFFF in the bottom of the charge, This will help with ignition. I use this in all of my "smokepoles" especially come hunting season. You may be pleasantly suprised by what you can achieve with 30-40gr. of fffg powder. no recoil, and only a little "POP" sure makes the time pass with lots of shooting w/o the sore shoulder
Have fun
BH
 
All I can think to add is when you use pillow tiching, which I feel is about the best, try a liquid lube especially if shooting long strings. Mooses Milk if you find some still being made, Hoppes, or Thompson's liguid shooting solvents clean the bore eery time you reload, or between swabbings. Also you don't get all greased up.
Really good thread...

SG
 
dr. Tad, there is one very important item nobody mentioned. You must go through an exorcism/detoxification ceremony to blot from your life record the stain of your involvement with, um..., them "other things".

Hee hee. :D :D :D
 
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I have been shooting a built from kit T/C .50 Cal Hawkin for about 30 years with great results.
For round balls, my rifle likes a home cast .490 ball with a .013" patch over 45 grains of FFFG.
I found pillow ticking a tad too thick for my needs.
For hunting, I shoot a 375 grain home cast Maxi-Ball over 90 grains of FFG.
Hoppe's 9 Plus is agood patch lube and you can pre- moisten several patches in a breath mint tin for a day at the range.
I acquired a T/C Omega last year but is not as much fun as the Hawkin.
Have fun,
Zeke
 
These old front stuffers are a load of fun and addicting as well. I have been shooting a flintlock for a little while now. I am originally from PA and flintlock was the only type of muzzleloader you could hunt with during white-tail muzzleloader season.

I shoot a Traditions muzzleloader Hawken style with a 1:48 twist, now some people like a conical out of this twist rate, but I prefer round ball.

I like using TC bore butter after cleaning, English hand knapped flints and pre-lubed precut patches with .490 round balls. I usually shoot about 85-90 grains of FFg and FFFFg in the flash pan. These precut patches in my onion are just easier to use and especially hunting you have enough to worry about. Also they allow me to run at least 4-6 shots before I have to swab the barrel.

Just my 2 cents
 
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