Help reloads glock 43

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horsemen61

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Ok guys

So I have a glock 43 that I want to start reloading for so I got all the components for it. Mixed range brass,CCI small pistol primers, CFE pistol powder and a new bullet for me Berry's plated 115 grain Flat point (FP)

Well I loaded 15 up for test set my dies up per Lyman's instructions
set my COAL at 1.065

I hand rack all of my semiauto rounds through my gun

Here is where the problem started I had 2 that would not go into full battery when I hand racked them and when I pushed on the back of the slide it did go into battery THE AMMO WAS THEN STUCK IN THE CHAMBER THE SLIDE WOULDNT OPEN, My question is what happened and why is it doing that any thoughts would help the first 13 went in fine?
 
Did you use a case gage before inserting into the gun? I sometimes use just the barrel to test for fit. My guess is not enough crimp.
 
Field strip and just use the barrel as a case gauge. Did you bell your cases and possibly not remove all of it. Mic the top of the case, should be around .376.
 
horsemen61 said:
I had 2 that would not go into full battery when I hand racked them and when I pushed on the back of the slide it did go into battery THE AMMO WAS THEN STUCK IN THE CHAMBER THE SLIDE WOULDNT OPEN, My question is what happened and why is it doing that any thoughts would help the first 13 went in fine?
Chances are, bearing surface of the bullet jammed in the rifling. If you are using mixed range brass, your finished dimensions/amount of bullet's bearing surface sticking above the case mouth could vary. So you will need to use the OAL that will work with all the cases.

+1 to using your barrel to determine the max OAL/COL - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=506678

Then function test by feeding the dummy round (no powder/no primer) from the magazine and incrementally decreasing until feeds/chambers reliably to determine the working OAL - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=8864541#post8864541
 
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Use a marker and paint the bullet and brass to see where your hitting. Like BDS said it more than likely putting the bullet in the rifling. This can also be caused by a bullet not being seated straight too, since some did chamber. Or maybe you did not get all of the flare removed.
 
I'm still "wet behind the ears" with this hobby, so I'm hesitant to buck the general consensus 'round these parts....but still.....

I'm going to take a shot in the dark and blame a "glock bulge" at the base that wasn't fully ironed out.
Could have to do with a specific headstamp that guppies more than the rest.
I've messed with glock brass a bit, and found a few that instead of pushing the brass back into shape, it looked more like it was pushed down, or wiped, and then kindof piled up towards the rim. Those particular cases did not pass a plunk test for me.

If it were jamming into the lands at 1.065 OAL, I think we'd be having more common threads with similar situations.
 
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The info bds posted above is sound.

Follow it grasshopper:)

The 9mm Glock barrels doe not "bulge" brass like the older 40 SW did unless perhaps really hot rounds were used. It is pretty well supported.

The plunk test is the best measure. Even manually cycling dummy rounds is not exactly the same as "live" fire but will give a good idea.
 
Guys I did a plunk test then and now it doesn't passes the test now having said that I even shortened the oal on the 2 that wouldn't work they are at 1.050 now and are still causing the slide to lock up. Question I have the Lyman three die set the instructions say I need a separate die to crimp with for a taper crimp is this true if so any suggestions?

Btw the load used was 5.5 grains of CFE pistol
 
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Horsemen,
If it's not the seating depth, then you may not have sized down the case enough. I get these from time to time in my Glock 17 w/ Lone Wolf barrel. That barrel is tight, and I have to ensure I have my sizing die down enough, if not, then I get lots of rounds that will not go in the chamber entirely. Remember 9MM is tapered and if you are not sizing closer to the base enough it will be too large to chamber.
 
Find the recommended OAL for a bullet with the same profile as you chosen bullet. Load one round and check it with the "plunk test". Shorten as needed for the round to easily fall into and out of the chamber. Don't overthink this part of reloading. Basically a cartridge is a "peg" and the chamber is a "hole". For a peg to go into a hole it must be smaller than the hole. For rounds that do not chamber, measure the round, diameters and length, to see where the cartridge is too big. Look at a round that "stuck" to see if the bullet jammed into the rifling.

I do not crimp my semi-auto ammo, I just use a taper crimp die to remove any flare from the case mouth, minimal "crimp"...

K.I.S.S. :D
 
My first pistol load passed the plunk test with my Sig, but not my Springfield. I found that I had used a taper crimp die, but had not crimped it enough for the tighter chamber of the Springfield. So, if overall length is good, this is what I would check next.
 
horsemen61 said:
So they don't pass the plunk test how do I fix this?
Make sure the cases are fully resized and they all drop in the chamber freely with a "plonk".

Then reload using the "passed" resized cases to determine your max/working OAL adding .020"-.022" to the diameter of the bullet for taper crimp.

If the finished rounds are still rubbing the chamber, roll the finished rounds on flat surface to see if the tip wobbles. If they do, ensure you are not tilting the bullet during seating to bulge one side of the case (you should see uniform bulge around the bullet and tip should not wobble when rolled - see pictures below)

Wobbly/tilted bullets showing bulge on one side of case

attachment.php


Non-wobbly rounds showing uniform bulge around the bullet

attachment.php
 
OP is using flat Pont (FP) bullets which has to be seated shorter than RN for the shoulders to clear the start of rifling.
 
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