Help with an SA M1 Garand

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nbsnbs

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Hello! I have a couple questions for all of you here at this board. I am new, and placed on a mission. :) My grandfather gave me some information about his M1 Garand rifle and asked me to go online to find out its approximate worth, as he is "electronically challenged" (how he puts it). I have since only been able to find out that a similar one has sold for a little less than $1,500. I would like to post the same information here, and ask that, if at all possible any of you could add to the information I hold, or tell me if you know its worth-- or where I could possibly go to find out. It is a post-war 1952-1953? M1 Garand, Springfield Armory. The serial number is 4297xxx, and after reading a few sites I would consider it to be in good-excellent condition. I would GREATLY appreciate some help. :D Thank you so much in advance!
 
Thank you, cu74! that was helpful! I'm making my grandfather a small booklet of my findings, does anyone else have any suggestions? Thank you so much.
 
Chipperman- I wish that I could! I should have taken some while I was visiting-- it would've been more helpful, but didn't think of it. I won't be visiting again for at least a month. :(
 
The price will vary greatly depending on the condition, and if the parts are "correct" for the date of manufacture (This means that the codes on each part are the same as those that would have been used when the rifle was put together) Being that it is a late model (after WWII) it will go for less than one from WWII (the ones from World War II have a higher collector value) It would still go for +$700 regardless of whether it is correct or not. The market value is above what CMP sells for because some people don't want to go through all the trouble of getting the paperwork filled out for a CMP garand. A good way to tell is go to www.gunbroker.com and look at the prices on there. The ones that sell are the ones that are in the "market range" some people try to sell them for +$1500 but unless it is a WWII serial number, or a Winchester manufacture most go for alot less
 
Look for any cartouches on the stock. These are letters like "SA" or a "P" in a circle punched into the wood. They make the rifle more valuable.

Pull the bolt back and look at the barrel where it's exposed. It should have some letters and numbers that will tell the manufacturer and year. There may also be some symbols. Post them here or at another forum for more info.

Lastly -- Take a 30-06 bullet or cartridge. Stick it in the muzzle - pointy end first. If the bullet slides all the way in, it's a good indication that the barrel has been shot quite a lot. Or perhaps cleaned too aggressively with a metal cleaning rod. If the bullet only goes in a little ways and you see a lot of copper, it's a good indication that the barrel is still pretty new and most likely in good shape. Don't clean with a metal cleaning rod. Buy your grandfather a bore guide or a .30 caliber Bore Snake for cleaning.

Click the rear sight up and down and back and forth (make sure to count the clicks and return it to where it was...it's not yours.) The clicks should be tight and distinct.

Do not refinish the stock and definitely do NOT sand the stock.

Sounds like a great rifle!
 
If you feel confident in taking it apart to some degree, here is a data sheet you can fill out on the parts in it:
http://www.nicolausassociates.com/PDF/M1DataSheetFillable.pdf

Its monetary value will be based on having original parts in good condition, but it is hopefully worth much more to you sentimentally.

According to http://oldguns.net/sn_php/mildateslookup.php?file=us_m1grndsp.dat
it is a 1952 mfg. Other sources could narrow it down to the month. If it has the original barrel, that should be close to the receiver date.
 
Thank you so much for the information, everybody! The only other numbers that were sent with me ( my grandpa wrote these down for me ) are-- 6528287sa and A11. I don't know if this is what you mean, but I could always call and get more information. I do not have the actual rifle on hand, it is safely in my grandpa's cabinet. :) He treasures it. Thank you again!
 
Also, he is almost certain that many of the parts are original, except for the sight. He had it replaced. I'm sure this will depreciate the value some.
 
nbsnbs said:
...does anyone else have any suggestions?
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If you don't mind a suggestion that's a bit farther afield, here's one: when you see him again next month, and the two of you go shooting it together, and you get hooked, you'll also find excellent ammunition available for the M1 through the Civilian Marksmanship Program.

Greek ammo made to the right specs for the M1 is listed at This Link.

Look for the "Pyrkal" or "HXP" ammo at that web page; both names refer to the same stuff. I think that Pyrkal is the brand name and HXP is their name for the ammunition that parallels the U.S.-made "M2 Ball" ammunition that the rifle is designed to use.

It's had excellent reviews at the CMP Forum. It seems to be more consistent in my M1s than the Lake City M2 Ball that I used to use. Lake City M2 Ball is the standard by which all others are judged; I'm on my second case of Pyrkal HXP. :)

Until then, your grandfather probably already knows not to use .30-'06 ammo with heavy bullets and slow powders. The CMP warns not to use any bullet heavier than 180 grains; most people use bullets of around 150 grains in their M1s.

The CMP's Greek Pyrkal HXP is available pre-loaded into M1 en bloc clips; I recommend ordering that kind.

Welcome to The High Road. Please stick around, and join in wherever you find that your interests lead you.
 
Also, he is almost certain that many of the parts are original, except for the sight. He had it replaced. I'm sure this will depreciate the value some.
Click to expand...

nbsnbs,

Just because the parts on your Grandads rifle are the ones that it had when he acquired it does not mean that they are "original" to the receiver. The vast majority of US M1 rifles went through one or six arsenal rebuilds during their service life. Parts were mixed and matched and replaced with replacement production parts that have different markings than factory "original".

The only way to know for certain whether or not your Grandads rifle truly is "original" (Or "Collector Grade" in M1 collectors circle terminology.) is to do an ID on EACH AND EVERY SINGLE PART and then compare to the date of receiver manufacture.

If this rifle is a real "Collector", wit ALL it's original factory parts, then it might be worth $1200-$1500 on the open market. Most likely it has a mix of production parts, like 99% of all M1's, and it will briing in the neighborhood of $700-$850 (Assuming very good to excellent condition with a low numbered bore.)

Just my 2 bits,
Swampy

Garands forever
 
Okay, thank you for the insights. You'll have to excuse my ignorance on the subject. I know next to NOTHING about rifles of any kind. I'm only doing a favor for my Grampy. :) When I said original I only meant that none had been replaced by him or my great grandfather in the times that they owned them. Sorry for the mistake. Thanks again!
 
One thing that makes this rifle a bit more valuable to a collector is the fact that it was manufactured during the actual years of the Korean war. ( 25 June 1950 - 27 July 1953) . Springfield Armory had ceased production of the M1 Garand in 1945 in the serial number range of 388xxxx or 39xxxxx. It was not until early 1952 that production of new M1 Garands resumed. Between 1 Jan. 52 and 30 June 53 Springfield Armory produced apx 123000 new M1s. These were all in the 42xxxxx to 4325xxx serial number range. Most of these Korean War era production were issued, used heavily, rebuilt, and passed on to Third World countries, so to find one in good, unaltered condition is by no means common. In my opinion it should not be compared to a CMP service grade. I would think, as you describe it, it would be worth at least $ 800.00 or more, and depending on condition up to maybe $ 1500.00. That just depends on how much someone wants it.
As for the numbers your grandfather gave you, 6528287 SA is the drawing number for the bolt and the A11 is the heat lot number. You will also find drawing numbers on the trigger group and operating rod. Also look at the barrel, under the operating rod. If original it will be marked SA 6535448 6 53 The 6 53 would indicate June 1953. This could also be 5 53. Sounds like your grandfather has a nice rifle. If you are really interested in selling it I would pass on the auction sites and contact Scott Duff. Check out his web site at www.scott-duff.com. I believe he gets a 19% commission for selling but he gets alot of buyers as collectors trust him and know they will get what they pay for.
 
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