Help with grimy bore!!

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Noban

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This morning I began cleaning the bore of a recently purchased 03 and 4 hours later it's still filthy. After scrubbing the bore judiciously with Hoppe's #9 and a brush, the patches still come out as dirty as the last one after 30 patches.

Tiring of the process, I switched to removing the copper and used Sweet's 7.62 solvent. After 20 patches they are still brilliant blue!

What gives?? Do I keep going and will the Sweet's hurt my bore? I don't leave it in any longer the 15 minutes at a time, but the cumulative effect has me worried.

Any recommendations on alternative cleaning suggestions?

TIA,
Kev
 
First thing: Go to GM and get some Top Engine Cleaner. Mix in a squirt of Kroil. Swab the bore with that and let it sit for about 10 minutes. Swab it again and let it sit for another 10 minutes. Swab it again and use a brush, then make sure it's good and wet and let it set again for 10 minutes. Now swab it and use some patches...she ought to come out clean really soon. After making sure it's good and dry, switch to sweet's and let it sit for 10 or so, and do the same.

Less work, but you'll have a clean bore this way.
 
Use Slip 2000 Carbon Cutter. I had a grotesquely sick bore on an ar15 and got a patch dripping wet and ran it though the bore, left it for 15 mins, then did it once more. Then I ran 4 clean dry patches and the bore was 100% shiny, perfectly clean, I love this stuff. Then just run a few drops of oil on a patch through the bore and you are set.
 
I second Walker on JB paste.

Toothpaste can also be used, as it is a microfine abrasive too.
 
Good advice so far.

One other thing is to take the rifle to the range and get the barrel warm. Then clean it. I've found that powder solvent works better when the barrel is still warm.
 
I've used JB Bore Paste for the toughest jobs.

But for lighter cleaning, Remington Bore Cleaner isn't a bad way to go. It's diatomaceous earth in a suspension, same active ingredient as Pearl Drops tooth polish.

If it's just carbon fouling and bullet lube fouling, I use Ed's Red. That stuff will pull crud out of the rifling even after Hoppe's, Sweet's, or RB-17 delivers clean white patches. Weird.
 
> BTW, everyone has their voodoo

Gunsmith John Jardine told me "If the champion kisses his patch, everyone will start kissing their patches" with a laugh.
 
I second the Slip 2000 Carbon Cutter. After you use it run some of the Slip 2000 CLP down the bore. The next time you shoot clean up will not be hard at all. The Slip 2000 Lube keeps the carbon, copper and crud from sticking to the metal. If you order the carbon Cutter they also send out a free 1 oz. sample of the Lubricant. www.slip2000.com
 
Carb cleaner or brake parts cleaner.

Spray it in and scrub with a clean bore brush. Keep spraying and watch the gunk pour out. After the cleaner starts coming out clean, run patches through. They should come out fairly clean.

A few drops of oil on a patch to prevent rust and enjoy the 10 min. cleaning job. Oh, make sure to run a patch or two through before shooting. The oil will pick up every nasty particle and you'll have to repeat the excercise.

If you absolutely cannot get it clean, you could always take it to an engine shop. Remove all the non metal parts (and easily misplaced parts) and have it hot tanked. This will ensure the action and barrel comes out as clean as the day it was made. This has the nasty side efect of removing any finish on the gun. You will need to re-blue if you go with the hot tank method.
 
Cleaning

I've been having good luck with tough gun cleaning jobs with Blue Wonder Gun Cleaner. It's made to be used before using Blue Wonder Gun Blue, it smells like toilet bowl cleaner (ugh!), it's probably bad for me or the bore or something, but boy does it clean. Have never tried Blue Wonder Gun Blue. Can't reccommend that. But the cleaner? Sweeeet.
 
Scrubbing the bore does absolutely nothing to remove fouling. You loosen and break up fouling by letting the cleaner work on dissolving it.

What I have found to work:
- Put an empty bore rod down the bore, from the chamber end. Use a bore guide if you have one. Attach a nylon brush at the muzzle end.
- Apply the solvent of your choice to the brush. I use Kroil with good results.
- Pull the brush backwards through the bore in a series of short jerks. This deposits a nice heavy layer of solvent in the bore.
- Go do something else for twenty minutes.
- Push patches through the bore with a rod and jag. The patches should not be too tight, they should push through the bore easily.
- Repeat as required.
- This will remove some of the gilding metal by lifting off the impacted copper. If you need to get every bit of copper out of your bore, use Sweets or Shooters Choice copper solvent, according to the instructions on the bottle.

- Chris
 
I've found Hoppe's never did jack for me, and after I switched to BreakFree CLP I never looked back.

You might want to spray Ballistol down the barrel, let it sit for half an hour or so. Ballistol melts cosmoline like nobody's business, so I imagine it would work well on crud.

NOTE: do NOT do it indoors, it will stink up your house to high heaven for days (as my momma would say)
 
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