Help with reload practice with 625 for USPSA

[motorcycle_dan]

I'm new to wheel guns shooting in action sports. So far I've learned that mooned ammo does not go in the butt of the grip.

Actually I've practiced a lot on my reloads. I think I've settled on switching my grip to left hand and reloading with my right. I can reliably hit the ejector rod with my thumb and my right hand is better at dumping new moon into cylinder.

So while I am practicing this technique what are some things I should watch for?

If it matters I'm using a CR Speed revolver holster and California Competition moon clip holders. Hooked on just two rounds so they stick out a little farther.

Some questions
Which moon clips do I go after first? From strong hand side around to the left?

What about revolver position? Where should it be in relationship to my body when in my left hand while I'm going for my moon clip with the right? Center of my chest or more center of belly?
Any suggestions on proper practice methods?
Thanks

 

[Markbo]

I would recommend that you look up some videos of your favorite professional shooters that use revolvers - Jerry Miculek comes immediately to mind. Watch their videos on slow motion to get al the little things down and then start working on speed.

Kind of like developing a good grip in golf before you start bombing away with the driver.

 

[dbarale]

Watch your 180 when reloading a revolver at speed, it's a very easy mistake to do and will bring you a match DQ.
Don't ask me how I know...

 

[motorcycle_dan]

how do you break 180?

Curious how this is done. Do you keep the revolver in your strong hand and do all the reloading with weak hand?

At what point did the barrel face up range? Was the cylinder open when this happened? While I hadn't contemplated it too much, I assumed with my weak hand two fingers through the frame with cylinder open was pretty secure movement. I do go from nearly vertical muzzle to downward pointing I could see pointing it near my left foot but not breaking the 180.

Teach me so I am less likely to make the same mistake.

 

[aryfrosty]

I have worked through the years to get a "dog and pony show" that was safe and quick for me. After I fire the cylinder rounds I bring the gun back close to my abdomen, concentrating on keeping the sharp end downrange...I use my strong, (firing), hand to release the cylinder and I use my left hand, curling my fingers under the trigger guard area, to push the cylinder open. Keeping my weapon in my weak hand I use my left thumb to push the ejector rod, while grasping the cylinder withmy weak hand fingers, thereby dumping the empties as I raise the muzzle...keeping it downrange...and position the gun close to my torso again and making it ready to receive a new load. WHILE I am cycling the hulls out I use my strong hand to reach across my body to the farthest moon clip and bring it back and load the cylinder with my right hand and then close and latch it with my weak hand and get my good strong firing grip with the strong hand. I go to the most awkward to reach loaders first becaue as you continue to fire and load it gets easier as you go by getting the closer loaders I use the same scenario in loading revolvers with my HKS or Safariland speed loaders. This is not something to be careless on. Practice at the range minding all safety rules for handling loaded weapons...just because...And if you wish to practice in your home or gun room I strongly urge, again just because, that you use snap caps. Respectfully; Al

 

[motorcycle_dan]

Exactly what I was looking for, Snap Cap build also

I do everything as you described except some areas I was "unsure" so my time was slow. Which speed loader to grab first became an issue in practice.
(yes I have snap caps I made up)
I think it will go well in a match. We will see this weekend.
Thanks, I'm sure there are a few more questions I'll have as things get faster.

Snap cap recipe
Get 6 of them DANG'd Win NT worthless small primer .45 ACP cases that you picked up my mistake. Drill a 1/8" hole through the side of them about 1/8" from extractor groove. So you won't mistake it for loaded ammo. use a chamfer bit to clean up the holes. Size it and de-prime, bell case, insert 230 FMJ bullet and seat to proper depth. Factory crimp to normal dimensions. (NO PRIMER)
Now go to staples and get some mechanical pencil eraser refills. They are roughly the same diameter as small primer. One refill cut into thirds will just stand proud in the primer hole. Use some GP contact cement to glue eraser pieces into primer hole. Trim any excess with single edge razor when glue dry. Thas' it.

 

[dbarale]

It happens when reloading while moving, if you're moving to the left it's fairly easy to end up with your muzzle pointing the wrong way.
Even though the cylinder is open at this point and the gun is "safe" it is still a DQ (as it should be).