Hidden design improvement in LCP MAX vs LCP II

unclenunzie

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I don't ever see this posted about before. Besides the visible external improvements (capacity, sights, ergonomics, extractor) there is also a notable improvement in construction. The LCP II sear pin pivot is part of the polymer grip frame, but in the LCP MAX the aluminum frame extends down further in the grip and contains the sear pivot. I think this increases strength over the LCP II which pivots in the polymer grip frame, though in practical terms may not mean much. Also the hammer and sear pins are identical parts in the MAX, which is a manufacturing simplification I like.

If one were to detail strip their MAX frame after several hundred rounds, one could clean it and apply SuperLube grease judiciously to make the most of the inherent trigger smoothness with no alterations from factory.

About 8 yards, two carry mags of Hornady Critical Defense. I think it needs a combat hold sight picture as it does group a little low when aiming across the top of the sights. I could certainly improve my shooting but the gun is capable at realistic ranges for a pocket gun. Strong hand (left) two-handed, standing.
lcp max HCD pie plate.jpg
 
Did you happen to take pics when you had it apart?

Alas, I did not, but it's basically to clear, field strip, remove (11) hammer spring cap, disengage (8) hammer spring (spring hook makes it easy), then press out the (36) front frame pin. The serialized (18) frame insert can then be lifted up a bit at the trigger area to allow the rear of the frame insert to come forward slightly and up. Care should be taken to be aware that the grip holds the (26) trigger bar on one side and the (29) takedown pin detent on the other side in place. De-tension the (25) trigger spring from under the trigger bar and the trigger bar comes free. The trigger can be detached from the frame by pressing upward slightly on the (23) trigger pivot pin then using a small flat tool to carefully pull and wiggle it (23) free from the loop of (25) trigger spring. The hammer and sear pins (9) can be pressed out to release their respective parts. The (27) sear and (28) sear spring come out easily enough, but are the more fiddly bits to put back in. I recommend using a slave pin or like I did a glock tool to put those parts back in. The trigger goes together easier than it comes apart.

I saw no need to disassemble the trigger safety or the hammer from it's spring.

After wiping down each individual part and the frame, I used a very small amount of SuperLube multi-purpose synthetic grease on the sliding contact areas, and the oil version on the rotating parts. Very small amounts.

I did something similar to my original gen 1 LCP but did not remove the hammer block at all. From what I read back then its hard to put back together and I didn't want to risk it. But the MAX was self-evident as much easier.
 
The Max/II drive me nuts. They remain really small, but rotsa shots. They give me trigger slap, and trigger pinch on rebound. Finally went back to the first gen LCP.
Hope Ruger polishes that particular turd some more; really would prefer the 10 rounds/better sights.
Moon
 
When I first got the max I used a small bit of fine sandpaper backed by painters tape to dehorn the very bottom of the trigger. It was kinda sharp and annoying. Never got slap or pinch. I could see it being annoying if you want to actually practice with it, which a person should. Still have my post-recall gen 1 LCP, will never sell it, but if I were to carry that version again I would be looking for a new one that had the better/newer extractor type.
 
I've had a number of 1st gen LCPs, and always found them entirely reliable...if not much fun to shoot. But there's something with the Gen IIs that traps my finger at the top, and give me trigger slap in recoil. Too bad; the trigger is more Glockish, even if it is hammer fired.
Moon
 
Love my Max! Carry it every day.
I drew it on a vicious unattended dog on a very rural road this morning.
Rover turned out to be rather nice after he made sure my wife saw all of his teeth.
All well that ends well as the saying goes.
No blood no foul. Everyone went on their way to enjoy a beautiful day.
 
Same here. But I have to think about it to do it.
I own one revolver that works best that way, so I have since moved to that trigger position for all of my guns. It took some getting used to, but now it works well and I don't have to think about it.
 
Yeah, the crease (the 'distal' joint) works remarkably well on double action revos/striker guns. I routinely shoot the LCP that way, and still get my finger pinched on the rebound.
Moon
 
Same. My fingers are very long. Some pistols I have to adapt my trigger finger position so it touches the trigger closer to the fingertip. It's normal for various combinations of long fingers and small pistols. In an emergency I'd just shoot it with my regular finger position and not notice the pinch.
 
The pinch has never happened to me and I had to look closely to understand why it happens to you guys. the edge in the poly grip frame at the top of trigger is a sharp 90 degrees. Sharp. My hand mechanics do not allow any part of my finger in there during firing but I can see how it could be a problem for others. The pivot point for the trigger is deep enough in the frame to need a range of motion large enough to bite some fingers.

My grip naturally places the trigger at the distal joint of my trigger finger. We are made for each other :neener:
 
I prefer the 2 or the max over the original. More usable sights and last round slide lock. Haven't had any pinching issues, yet.
 
I have the original LCP. I've often thought about getting the Max, for the "improvements". But, threads like this will keep me just thinking about getting a Max! My LCP is already unpleasant to shoot.

Had a CZ 9mm compact once. I loved everything about it, except shooting it. Trigger slap was terrible!
 
I own one revolver that works best that way, so I have since moved to that trigger position for all of my guns. It took some getting used to, but now it works well and I don't have to think about it.

None of my other pocket guns (past or present) with a long trigger pull create this problem with my trigger finger. Taurus 85UL, NAA Guardian, Taurus TCP732, Remington RM380, or Charter Arms Undercoverette. I've never experienced it shooting my ol' shootin' buddy's pair of 1st gen Ruger LCPs either.

In fact, I have no guns in my collection that do what the Max does to my trigger finger. Compact or full size.

Sure, I can compensate for the Max's problem at the range. But, think I need to do some dehorning in the trigger and trigger guard area.
 
I have the LCP-LCP II-LC9 trio, no Max in the quiver.

IMG_0506.jpeg

Of the three, the LCP II is the one I like and shoot it best.

None are fun to shoot, but I don’t expect these little runts to be a hoot. They are worlds better to shoot than the AMT Backup .380! (On top of LCP II.)

IMG_0502.jpeg

I guess I am lucky that I don’t get the trigger slap issues with these guns like some of you do. I did get that with the standard triggers on the Glock 43, 43X, 48, I will state that it stinks! I swapped to flat faced triggers and the Glocks are much better to shoot now.

Stay safe.
 
Sure, I can compensate for the Max's problem at the range. But, think I need to do some dehorning in the trigger and trigger guard area.
I removed some plastic around the trigger opening, to no good purpose. This was on the II and the Max. Figured the last thing needed, if the poo actually hits the airmover, is the distraction of a pinched/slapped trigger finger. "...finger in a rat trap!" indeed. ;)
Still have an original LCP; it works, it's really small, but it doesn't encourage practice.
My current alternative is a Smith BodyGuard; longish, revolver-like trigger, but it doesn't slap or pinch. The recoil is a lot less as well, but it's LCP size.
Moon
 
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