How Do I Clean My Marlin 60?

[Plinkerton]

I have a Marlin 60

It's a .22 Long Rifle semi-automatic (called self-loading by Marlin) rifle. It has the tubular magazine underneath the barrel.

I was just curious how I should go about cleaning this thing. I can take it apart, off of the wooden stock, but the barrel and entire action, etc. all come off in one piece. Gunk seems to build up all inside, everywhere, and I can't really think of a way to clean this all out. It looks a bit complex to actually take all the way apart.

Is there some way to dunk the whole assembly in something, that would make it all clean? I have cleaned it as much as I could with Breakfree CLP, and it seems to have smoothed it up a little bit, but when I rack the slide area, it still feels a little gritty.

Thank you very much.
-Plink-

 

[sm]

As a general rule I don't do much to these. OKay the truth is I don't make a big deal out of overcleaning anything...real real rare for me clean bores.

I use pipe cleaners, long wooden Q-tips and toothbrushes to clean. I focus on Chamber, and extraction. I don't do the bore unless I have exposed to rain, sleet mud or snow. Then I only run a patch through to remoove moisture.

The POA/POI can change if constantly removed from stock. I protect the metal surrounded by the stock with RIG or a Quality Canuba Car Wax.

IF on those rare occasisons ( like find one used) I will remove from the stock, Spray it down with CRC Power Lube, and hit with air compressor . The small cans of compressed air will work.

CRC Brakleen will work. I Just think folks overuse the stuff. There may be some plastic in the newer models that might not like Spray degreasers and such. So I'd check first.

Actually - The last one I took off the stock I squirted down with Simple Green, ,pipe cleaned, toothbrushed, Squirted it down with more SG and then hosed with HOT WATER, air dried and lightly lubed. Couple of these were in grungy shape from storage.

I used the Super Oil made by Gunk to lube...machine oil $1.19 for 4 oz... O r the CRC PowerLube ...I have no idea how many rounds I shot in that gun, before I gave it away...Been years since taken off the stock, it was fine -RIG protected it. I don't recal ever cleaning the bore...ever...

 

[Plinkerton]

Thanks. It's a little grungy underneath the stock. If I can spray it with Simple Green, toothbrush, and use hot water, that should be just fine. I just didn't want to damage anything with water.

It's actually fairly old. It looks like the one in the picture, but it's checkered in the front and rear grip. I've had it for a few years, it just never got that much use. I figured now that I have started shooting it again, I should start thinking about what to do to keep it clean. I'm not too worried about it, as it was kind of a cheap impulse buy, to have some fun with.

Thanks again. Any other opinions and tips are still welcome.

-Plink-

 

[P95Carry]

Plink ... my M60 is about my funnest .22 rifle!

When stripping (after woodwork off) ... take out slide (after removing bolt ''handle'') .... and then remove trigger group (push that rear plastic split pin thru), but keep hammer cocked. There is a lot of powder crud builds up and I use whatever works! Q Tips, tweazers with patch damped with #9 ... toothpics ... anything to shift that mess! Maybe even carb cleaner and when finished .... just a merest smidgeon of Militech on main areas of motion .. VERY minimal.

Mine does need an occasional clean because too much crud - and first round will sometimes FTE and then a misfeed.

 

[Plinkerton]

That's what I got! Except for the scope. I really have a lot of fun with this gun. It's very accurate, and a blast to shoot.

How do I go about removing the bolt "handle"?

Thanks for the other tips. I'll give it a look.

 

[sm]

Give Jagermeister in the other Forum a shout. I betcha he has take down instructions.

Some ammo produces more crud than others. The gun will tell you what it does an does not like as far as accuracy, reliability and crud build up.

Try Fed buld pks.
Across the many .22 firearms I've owned and shot - the Win X22lr is the most reliable, accurate and cleanest shooting.

CCI is another good choice, just not readily avail here.

 

[Plinkerton]

I have always used Winchester X .22 long rifle in it. It really hasn't seen that much use. A few hundred I would imagine. It has ALWAYS been extremely accurate, and I have never had a malfunction of any kind.

 

[P95Carry]

Plink ..... the cleaning of mine is very infrequent - as a result I do not have the clearest way to describe the break down. It's one of things now where .... when I come to do it, the method sorta ''seeps back''.

However ... the bolt handle ..... or if you, slide handle .... is sorta ''U'' shaped where it's hidden. I really need to dig out the manual and scan a diag' ... tho you should have that??

If prob's still later . I'll do a strip on mine (needs it!!) and fill you in in more detail. Gotta dash.......

 

[Plinkerton]

Thanks p95. I actually don't have anything for this gun. Manual etc. Maybe I can find it on the Marlin website.

Thanks again.

 

[RustyHammer]

Most of the time I just use FP-10 and a .22 cal bore snake -- along with some Q-tips and tooth brush on it. This is one of those circumstances where "less is more".


YMMV

 

[P95Carry]

Plink -- there should be some info somewhere - maybe a search at http://rimfirecentral.com/ might help.

I will tho later in day if time allows, give my action the clean it deserves .. and once refreshed on sequence will come back and post - even if you are then sorted out. Still might be useful for someone anyways.

 

[Dave R]

Here's what I do to my Model 60.

Most times, after shooting, I just run a bore snake through the bore 3 times. (Squirt a little G-96 or CLP on the bore snake.

Squirt a little G-96 or CLP on a rag or large patch and clean out the chamber.

Then, every 3-4 shootings, I do a more detailed strip.

-Stock off
-Separate the trigger group from the receiver.
-Remove the bolt.
-Clean the bold real well.
-Hose down the trigger group with gunscrubber or carb cleaner. Then spray with CLP/G-96 to lube again.
-Reassemble

I need the instructions in the manual to get the bolt out. And it is a littel tricky. I recommend getting a manual from Marlin. It may be a free online download? If not, then write, call, or e-mail them and get one.

 

[WhoKnowsWho]

Well, I only use a boresnake on mine. I am waiting for 1000 rounds before I take it all apart. It's only at 600 or so. It doesn't get as much attention as it should.

 

[Dionysusigma]

I usually take it down to the barrel/receiver, stock, bolt, bolt spring/rod, bolt handle, and action.

For the action, one thing I've found to be dang useful is "electronics duster" cans. I basically scrub everything I can with Hoppe's and a toothbrush, then spray bore cleaner into every crevice. Last, I use a can of duster to blast all the grit out. Works fine for me.

 

[Plinkerton]

Thanks everyone for all these tips. I will definitely be trying a couple.

Just wanted to add, I shot it today a bit. This thing continues to be so accurate, it blows my mind. I don't have a scope on it, so I am just using stock sights. There was an orange clay disc thing (for trap shooting) very far away (for me anyway)... Maybe like 75 yards or so. I looked at my friend, and said, "watch this, I'm gonna hit it". I seriously expected to have to take 5-10 shots or so before I tagged it. FIRST SHOT. I amazed myself, and my friend couldn't believe it. I really love this gun! Even though it feels like shooting a pellet gun...

 

[P95Carry]

Marlin 60 - 10/22 ... whatever one's choice . these rifles can truly be tack drivers.

And the resultant grin is wide - very wide!

I may strip mine tomorrow if time . and as I said . post further info in case it helps.

 

[P95Carry]

plinkerton ....... I have posted a thread on this takedown .... HERE .

You may well be OK on this now but thought it might help someone else too.

 

[Plinkerton]

Thanks a lot P95.

 

[lancealt]

i have a marlin glenfield 60, but pics i see in this web site show different assebly parts,parts that are not on my marlin ,looks like some kind of a safty ,and there is also a extra spring that i dont have on . i took the assebly flate completly apart, ishould have video tsped it ,didnt like dumb ass. i need really good pics with good lighting on how to assemble it propely, shooting is my thearpy

 

[Carl N. Brown]

.... parts that are not on my marlin ....

I had a Marlin Glenfield 99G (an early version of the Model 60)
from 1965 to 1972, and have one from the early 80s and
was given a new M60 a few years ago.

The Marlin 60 has gradually changed over the years.

Originally, the trigger group was held to the receiver
by two screws at the front, and a post and screw at the rear.
Currently, the trigger group hooks over two pins at
the front, and is held by a sliding nylon post at the rear.
This is just as secure as the old method, but a lot
quicker for disassembly.

Originally, the ejector was part of the left half of the
feed throat (a chrome plated alloy block that incorporates
the feed lips of the magazine). When that ejector wore
down, you needed a new feed throat.
Currently, the ejector is an extension of the cartridge
lifter spring, and is a lot more durable.

Also, the current feed throat and receiver have clearances
to allow space for crud from firing to build up before
cleaning becomes necessary. The bearing surfaces for
the bolt still have tight tolerances.

The clearance cuts in the breechface of barrel to accommodate
the extractors on the boltface are wider, which also allows
clearance for crud build up before cleaning becomes necessary.

The older M60s do not have anyway to lock the bolt back.
Then the bolt handle was modified so it can be pulled back
then pushed in to lock the bolt open. I do routine cleaning
with Hoppes #9, Qtip, toothbrush and bamboo scewer with
the bolt locked open (full disassembly maybe once a year).

The current models have a last-shot hold-open device
with a lever that protrudes from the front of the
triger guard. This helps prevent snapping on an empty
chamber, and can be manually engaged.

The Gun Parts Corp. (Numrich) has a couple of pages on the
Marlin Model 60 variations and their parts. (Happily, most parts
are interchangeable and those that are not can be retrofitted.)

 

[cpaspr]

Go to the source:

Here's a link to Marlin's website, owner's manuals page. Just pick your specific Model 60 and download.

http://www.marlinfirearms.com/customersupport/manuals.aspx

 

[rangerruck]

yep, p95 has the best take down pics. there was once a dude somewhere, that hac complete, precise, and clear pics, just like that, but of taking apart the action as well. wish I knew where those instr/pics were now.

 

[KHAN]

Here is one of the best websites I know for breaking down your Marlin 60.

http://www.castbullet.com/misc/m60.htm

 

[aaronrkelly]

I take the rifle out of the stock and hose the whole thing down with PowderBlast....I love that orange smell.

Hit any areas you can with q-tips.

Yank a bore snake thru the barrel.

Assemble with some light oil on moving parts.

Shoot till it starts failing alot and repeat.