How Good Are Recoil Buffers???

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I bought several...some for my S&W auto pistols and one for my Ruger Mini-14. I put the one for my Mini-14 on my standard model, but haven't used it. Oh, and I got one for my Ruger 10/22, which installed with no problem.

The only down side to the Mini-14 model is that it catches on the stock sometimes and disengages the spring and retainer, which is a bear to get back on. Some people really like the buffers, while others aren't so impressed.

If you have a 10/22 or a Mini-14, what are your opinions? (I got the one for my 10/22 from eBay and had to change a yellow polycabonate one for a steel one—any problems with that?) How much good do they do?

Thanks!
 
I have a buffer in my 10/22 - it helps greatly with action noise, but then again I only run it with a silencer.
 
If the firearm WASN'T designed with a buffer, they're a solution in search of a problem (and sometimes cause problems, such as cracked receivers).

If the firearm WAS designed with a buffer, and you choose aftermarket replacements, your safety is subject to the grade of materials and workmanship used to make them.
 
agree with nalioth. Buffers are a popular topic over on saiga-12.com. Tony Rumore of Tromix weighs in that not only are they a waste of money but they cause cycling problems.
 
That's too bad, but thanks for the info. My first problem with a recoil buffer was in a Mini-14 that I was trying to put into a Butler Creek folding stock. With the buffer in place, not only did I have a difficult time fitting the barrel assembly into the stock, every time I removed it, the spring and post would come flying off. I finally just left it off.

I've had people recommend the ones for the 10/22, but replacing a steel part with a polycarbonate one just...well, it don't seem right.
 
I've had people recommend the ones for the 10/22, but replacing a steel part with a polycarbonate one just...well, it don't seem right.

It causes less wear/tear than the steel one.
 
I also agree with Nalioth.....in a gun not designed for them,a buffer puts a blockage where nothing but air once was.This now creates a solid "slam" into the back of the receiver, where none was before.
My Lancaster AK came with one, but after a little research, i pulled it out, and haven't put any in any other weapons i own.
 
I've only put one in my 10/22 and I think it's absolutely great. No more metal on metal slamming together. The 'clink' was one of the most annoying things about the rifle. It's one of only 3 minor upgrades I made to the 10/22, and well worth the $6, IMO.
RT
 
My 10/22 actually had to have a buffer to be able to mount a receiver mounted sighting device (either a scope or TechSIGHTS). Without a buffer, the screws would actually vibrate loose within 50 rounds (even w/ loctite). So I carved a buffer from a long pencil type eraser. And it works just fine.

AK's don't need them. The Marlin Camp Carbine series needs a buffer (replace w/ a Blackjack buffer). I don't have any experience with other firearms that may or may not need a buffer.
 
I used them in a few of my AKs. I took them out. I didn't notice any improvement, and I certainly didn't want to take the chance to harm my rifle in any way.
 
I know this is a rifle forum, but for those of you who have used them and removed them, did you do so because of any problems, or just because you didn't think they were doing any good?

I'm going to try them out on my Ruger 10/22, but had to remove one from my Mini-14 (as stated). For my S&W autos, I haven't tried firing them yet, but if they cause any problems, out they go. Since I have steel frames, I don't think I'll need them. If I had a Beretta 92 or any other gun with aluminum frames, I'd definately try buffers, especially if I had one of the Berettas made before they beefed up the rails. I know the liklihood of a catastrophic failure is slight, but Ive talked to some of the Navy people involved in the Beretta testing, and I don't want to even run the risk of some of the failures they had. But that's a different story. If I pay $600+ for a pistol, I want it to last me a good, long time.
 
Your 10/22 was designed with a buffer in it... a metal one. It's metal to increase the service life of it. The plastic ones will wear, and need to be replaced.

It's kind of like brake pads on your car. You can get harder ones that last longer, but are harder on your rotors. Or, you can get soft pads that stop the car better, are easier on brake components, but wear out faster.

I have the yellow plastic one in my 10/22. I bought three at once, and I expect to replace them over time. I don't know how long they'll last, but since I break down the gun completely when I clean it it will be easy for me to keep an eye on.
 
You guys with the 10/22s...

What about all these old hands out there who've used their 10/22 for 30 years and don't even know you can replace the buffer?

Their guns ( including one my Dad has ) obviously run just fine.

"High Tech" or "New fangled" doesn't necessarily mean "works better than the factory design".
 
At rimfirecentral they seem quite fond of the 10/22 buffers, but the AK gurus seem down on them.

The difference seems to be that in a 10/22, the bolt does contact the receiver during normal firing. In an AK, it does not.
 
A buddy of mine used a recoil buffer for his .45 acp pistol. The buffer jammed up his pistol so bad that it took a gunsmith to get the pistol apart. None of us could move the slide because of that stupid thing. After seeing that, I would never use a buffer at all.
 
In my opinion if my AK needed a buffer the commies would have put one in it by now, especially if it increased reliability or service life for practically no extra cost.
 
Buffers are like recooperators, they belong in artilery guns and are part of the design. In small arms they are like the you know what on boar hogs...
 
I have the buffers on a 10-22 absolutley no problems, and on a Mini-14. The Mini really slammed the op rod into the reciever very hard and very noisey, before the buffer was installed, had to shave the buffer down in thickness,as it was not letting the last shot bolt hold open feature work reliably, sanded it on the belt sander.

Couldn't tell much difference on the 10-22 but could tell big difference on the Mini!
 
There are all sorts of aftermarket items for the Ruger 10/22. The folding stocks, I think, are a good buy. So, too, are the large capacity mags. Some people like the recoil buffers; I don't see that they'd do any potential damage like the one on my Min1-14. People also try to get you to buy and install a new extractor when I've never had an issue with my factory extractor. I reckon there's always money to be made.

The worst thing about the 10/22 are those datgum iron sights.
 
The new extractors for 10/22s are a good thing for those of us using shorter barrels and silencers, as are the buffers. Haven't had a failure of any kind for about 1k rounds now, when before it was every 2-300 unless I cleaned it.
 
I wouldn't use a buffer unless the firearm was originally designed to use one. You take a chance on short cycling the weapon and putting stress in places not originally intended.

In my opinion if my AK needed a buffer the commies would have put one in it by now, especially if it increased reliability or service life for practically no extra cost.
True. But the commies did put one in the PPSh41, a cheap composite sawdust/rubber one. The material is so shoddy it is the first part that wears out.

PPsh41No803h.jpg





Gun rebuilders using original parts however usually replace it with a polyurethane one.

ppsh41_inst.jpg
 
I have them on my 10/22 and AK47. They both run flawlessly with or without buffers......that makes me think it's not doing anything, but not harming it either. Save your $$$.
 
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